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Thats a 5 turn shaft. Meshes with a 40 tooth pump gear, RD250A.

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Looks like the old pump to me. Interesting how it says the later 350 has a 214 part numbered wormshaft; fine with 9 threads.
The 214 shaft actually has 7 complete threads.
Never seen 9 threads on the 350.

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Yeah, basically the difference is between A/B models and 250/350 variants.

The pdf isn't working for me.

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And to me.

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On those straight brass nozzles, use a small socket to bang it back in. Don't hit the small outlet stub.

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No heat required.
Get a good grip with a decent pair of mole grips. Turn and pull at the same time and it will come out. I bond them back in for a belt and braces job, and test them while the casting is still bare.

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The outlet nozzle needs to come out, to clean the spring and seat. There is normally a lot of crap in there. A now roll pin (and split pin should be fitted if using the long shaft)

I prefer to press the roll pin in, first with its tapered end, but when the job is complete the pin has no tapered end, ie full diameter all the way through the hole for maximum retention.
If the roll pin comes out in use, the motor will die. Don't rely on the roll pin retainer to compromise on a poor fit here. They didn't work very well, hence two future methods, the final one being a steel screw along with steel insert top casting, not all Aluminium like the early ones.

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Yes, those pumps you have there are quite different to each other. One is driven directly from the center of the crank. Even though the pump outlets are in the same position the camshafts are 'timed' differently and are not interchangeable.

The condition of your original camshaft concerns me. Where the corrosion has crept along the new seal may struggle with that and have a very short life, although there is a solution to that. You can chop the back of the shaft off and use a blank plug in the back like the later pumps. You will loose the priming wheel of course. The gear is retained on the shorter shaft with just one longer pin with no spring. You can make one from the shank of a small drill. I can provide dimensions for this.

Also, look down the center of the camshaft to see what blanks it off. If you see a bright steel pin, this is good. If you see a resin plug, then check it's integrity as these are starting to fail now.

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Single outlet pumps have left hand and right hand camshafts according to which outlet (on the main casting) is used/not drilled off. As long as you can get the outlet pipe to fit, it doesn't matter. But, on a single cylinder pump you can not use a camshaft that came from a  pump that uses  the top outlet and put it into a casting that uses the side outlet (or vice versa). It won't work. It would if you could spin the pump in the opposite direction.

You will need to use your original pulley, if the other one has a different ID.

You say the donar pump has no internal gear, then you will be using the gear from the original pump. You will need to make sure that the shafts are in good condition and change all the seals as a matter of course.

Does the original pump have the plastic thumb wheel on the back of the shaft? Refitting the gear on these with the spring loaded pins is a nightmare....


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I'm not sure, myself.

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I know this Guy. He's very unlikely to be wrong.

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Wow Greg, you certainly been through it! Take it easy Man.

What looks like a botched appendix scar (yes it's in the same place) and on the 'correct' side is my only real scar from a bike. No broken bones either.

A great rider? Certainly not! Very cautious, relatively slow and lucky I guess.

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There is no substitute for a correctly fitted, tight fitting roll pin. The idea of the roll pin retainer didn't really work very well at all, hence why it was phased out and two subsequent methods (to retain the pulley) added later. The addition of the plate also effectively shortens the length of the threads on the plunger shaft. This can be seen in the OP's photo.

Also, and I've seen it a few times, if that bracket gets knocked at all it can prevent the minimum stroke.

I fit the roll pin in a special way. With a tapered end at first (for ease of fitting and to protect the soft aluminium hole), but when completely fitted there is no tapered end, so full diameter all the way through the hole.
It wasn't fitted like this in the factory.

I also greatly prefer to press the roll pin in, as opposed to hammering it in.

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I like that. Is that a pump on the side, to inflate the tyres?

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Hi, and welcome to the forum.

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