Messages

The Yamaha factory air cooled race cylinders and heads were left unpainted.  When they went to water cooling they coated them black.  Maybe the reason they left the air cooled parts natural was to save money but I don't think so.  I like the natural color of the alloy cylinders and heads.
Lyn Garland

That's great Chuck!  Keep up the good work.
Lyn Garland

I believe a 90/90 front and a 110/80 rear is the best combination for the RD.  350 or 400, street or track.
Lyn Garland

I run a four or five inch piece of fuel line up from the fitting up to the area between the pods.  Use a firm hose that needs no support and you'll be fine.  If I remember correctly, dangerous assumption, it is to equalize the air pressure in the float bowl with the atmosphere.
Lyn Garland

For many years I have used Yamaha dirt bike exhaust mounting brackets.  The part number I have is 1H3-14791-00-00 but that is suspect and the local shop is closed on Mondays and I can't confirm the number.  It is a two piece steel tap sandwiching a small, firm rubber block.  One side of the tab points up, the other down.  (I'd post a picture but I am technologically challenged.)  If your local parts guy is friendly get him to look at a late '70s or early '80s enduro or MX exhaust system and check the pipe hangers.  If you can't find one get back to me and I'll check my shop tomorrow.  I've used these things on our road racers for years and never broken one.
Lyn Garland

That is why I buy my seals and gaskets from my local Yamaha shop.  Yes, I pay more money and guys call me crazy, but how often do you buy a crank seal (actually, two of them)?  And why take a chance?  How many bad stories have you heard about right side cover gaskets bunching up and leaking?  None of them with Yamaha gaskets.  Yes, the aftermarket gaskets are getting better but it sure took them a long time.  Seals and gaskets are not that much money and you don't use that many of them.  Penny wise and pound foolish...
Lyn Garland

I have always followed the advice you mentioned reading on the air cooled forum; done that for years. Did you replace the bushings with bronze inserts?  That wouldn't make any difference, just asking.
Lyn Garland

The best tires for RDs is the 90/90-18 front and 110/80-18 rear.  Most road racers use those sizes.  Avons are the best for both wet and dry with Conti's second in the dry and poor in the wet.  Be careful buying from internet dealers, many times their tires are old; unused, but dated.  I can get your Avons or Contis from the distributor in Pennsylvania that are fresh.  Write me if you want prices.
Lyn Garland   vintspclty@aol.com

I'm leaving town tomorrow morning and won't be home until Saturday evening and then I can look in my parts box but I am quite sure I have a good used OEM 400 petcock in there.  I'll look when I get back and I'll let you know if it still works and we can work something out if you haven't found a solution to your problem.
Lyn Garland

I agree with Joe.  Millennium is the best I have found.  But think about this:  If your cylinders are on Stage 2 porting you might want to go a bit farther some day and if you have the cylinders nica-siled you would have wasted that money.  If it were me, I'd get the cylinders bored and run them.  If you find that they are exactly what you want wait until you wear those pistons out and then send the cylinders and new pistons to Millennium and have them coated to the new piston size.  Won't cost you a cent more and you will have ensured you covered your bases.
Lyn

Brad:
I had the carbide bore process on a pair of race cylinders a long time ago and found them to be quite effective.  The hardening of the liner lengthened the life of the liner but I don't think it helped the life of the pistons much at all.  The process might be more effective on a four stroke, since there are no ports in the liner, but it was helpful in my opinion.  Nica-sil, a much more expensive treatment, is much
better but should only be used when you have reached full development of the cylinder, in other words, ultimate porting.
Lyn Garland

Very nice work!  I am fond of the stock look, especially the stock pipes; it just makes the bike "look right".  You should be proud.
Lyn Garland

Most of us do not use the separation rings.  Sometimes, depending on the type of plates used, you can't install them and other times they just aren't used so they couldn't cause slippage.  It is my opinion with the current high quality clutch plates that slippage doesn't occur very often but I still don't use the rings, just for insurance.  It does make disengagement after the bike sits for a long time (a week or so) difficult and engagement of first gear kills the engine (sometimes) when first started, but that is no big thing as it goes away almost immediately. 
Lyn Garland

Generally you only apply the bond to only one case.  One time I had a pair of bad cases and had to apply it to both sides.  Those cases were slated for replacement after that rebuild.
Lyn Garland