Cable conversion for rear drum brake

[Dvsrd]

As I totally prefer moderate rearset pegs, instead of the (too far forward) stock peg position, I am now considering converting the rear drum brake on both my XS650D and my RD350A to cable actuation, instead of the heavy and clunky stock brake shaft/arm/stay, plus the required linkage between rearset pedal and the splined brake arm shaft.

DCC, and some other vendors are selling some setups, and on those, the cable ends up in a fairly severe S shape. Basically pointing aft, then down, then aft.
On drum brake Yamaha roadracers, like the TR3, the cable went up in a smooth arc, then down. Obviously, the rear brake plate was designed for this cable path.

I am thinking about having the cable point down at the pedal end, then arcing back towards the brake drum. Just making a pedal that is more or less straight, instead of L-shaped. That way, I can have the stopper for the cable sleeve on/attached to the static brake stay, which is the most convenient.
I believe there are two main objectives here, minimizing cable friction, and minimizing any feedback of suspension movement into the brake. Feel free to provide suggestions, constructive criticism, and ridicule:)

[pdxjim]

The DCC kit looks like it could be adapted to work way better than the way they show.

Clock the cable mount on the pedal clockwise or pull the cable directly with the lever like the TD/TZ does.

Mount the front cable housing stop up above the pedal either on the rearset plate or directly on the frame

Mount the rear housing stop directly to the brake backing plate on the hub.

Haha, I'm sure making everything line up right will be a challenge, and the DCC cable is probably too short for this but it certainly seems doable.

[rodneya]

Id say you are overthinking it.
If you were doing 20000miles a year on the bike the internal friction may wear the liner out, but then they are quite cheap to replace.

I dont think suspension movement is going to do anything as the cable will flex.

I have a similar setup that came in the boxes along with the rest of my bike, but its badly kinked and I dont want to use it, so a new one from Dime City Cycles is on my wish list

[teazer]

I fitted an RD rear wheel to a TR3 because I couldn't find or afford a genuine TR/TD wheel, so I welded a cable abutment onto the backing plate and used a Suzuki GT750 cable.

But didn't I see a cable conversion somewhere that anchored the cable on the brake torque arm?

[Dvsrd]

 Yes,
The DCC kit does that, you just need to drill one hole in the torque arm.
And there is a vendor selling an RD specific setup, with an alloy torque arm with that abutment welded on, or maybe machined from billet, in one piece. But both those have the cable in a pretty severe "S" shape, which I really do not like.
Your TR style setup looks way better IMHO. But I don't have alloy welding skills and equipment.
So I was thinking about making a steel torque arm, maybe stainless. And welding on a cable stopper/abutment. Then make a brake pedal that has the arm for the cable at around 10'o clock. Then the cable needs to bend maybe 60 or 70 degrees, in one single, fairly large radius. I can get a custom brake cable made by Venhill in the UK.