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Replacing intake manifolds

Started by DaytonaBarnFind, November 01, 2021, 01:43:35 PM

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DaytonaBarnFind

Replacing my intake manifolds.  What's the trick to stop leaks?  What torque specs? I hear 10Ftlbs, which seems like a lot to me, 120InLbs.  New gasket between case and Reed box (no sealer), black RTV around the manifold circle and reed case.  Torque diagonally.  Thanks in advance...

m in sc

torque spec is by fastener typically. regular 8.8 bolts @m6 is 6.5 ft lbs.

no need for rtv if using an oem manifold. IF using an aftermarket one w no 'oring' type groove molded into it, us e a second gasket between reed and manifold.

as far as sealant, i use red anaerobic sealant. it has the consistency of axle grease and seals up when in lack of air situations. best part is, it wipes right off the outside after using. skip the black rtv for intakes.   :twocents:




DaytonaBarnFind

#2
Thanks for the recommendation on a sealer, it stopped the leak on the boot side.  Now it "only" leaks between the reed cage and head.  Just used a gasket without anything sealer. Tried tightening them a little more, but it still leaks.  Torques to 90in lbs, 7.5ftlb  Then tried some anaerobic sealer, lightly on both sides of gasket, and let it sit overnight.  It reduced the leak but sill seeps some.  The good news it looks like the crank seals are good.  This is my first Daytona, the barn find bike is still in boxes...  Should I try to reed cages or another sealer?  The mating surfaces were clean and appear to be square/plumb, so to speak.  Thanks in advance!! 

pdxjim

#3
I use gaskets and MotoSeal at all intake mating surfaces (case/spacer, spacer/reed cage, reed cage/manifold) coz I have chased my tail with intake leaks and I would rather goop it up and be sure than have to take it all apart again.

Thats six gaskets total, with goop on both sides (of the gaskets).  :bacon: :bacon: :bacon: :bacon: :bacon:
Wasting time on 2T forums since the dawn of the internet. '89 TDR250, '13 300xcw, '19 690smcr, '56 Porsche 356A