Cylinder stud replacement

[Vintagewannabe]

Did a search and couldn't find a post on this.
I haven't ever had to replace head studs before, and since mine are crusty I decided to replace the head studs, and some of the ones that hold the cases together.
I know the flat end of the stud goes in the hole, with the domed end sticking out.
Is there a torque spec to this or is it just good and snug? My old clymer manual doesn't even talk about replacing the studs.
Some say loctite, some say antiseize. What are the opinions on that?
Bike is a 73 RD350.

[1976RD400C]

I haven't done many stud replacements, but I would just install them with nothing on them and snug them up. I do see the end with the longer amount of thread goes into the cases. Getting the old ones out can be a chore.

[m in sc]

when i replace them i chase the threads with a cleaning tap then blow out the holes clear. i used a bit of blue Loctite reinstalling. just seat them but if you need a torque spec its 12-15 ft lbs. its set by thread pitch and material etc. (typically)

[automan]

Most are interference fit from factory.
Meaning stay tight to the case.

[Vintagewannabe]

I haven't done many stud replacements, but I would just install them with nothing on them and snug them up. I do see the end with the longer amount of thread goes into the cases. Getting the old ones out can be a chore.

Yeah. I got all but one out. The last one was the worst. None of my tricks worked. It got handed to the machinist.

when i replace them i chase the threads with a cleaning tap then blow out the holes clear. i used a bit of blue Loctite reinstalling. just seat them but if you need a torque spec its 12-15 ft lbs. its set by thread pitch and material etc. (typically)

I have chased the threads and cleared them. The loctite is likely how I will do it.

Most are interference fit from factory.
Meaning stay tight to the case.

Like the threads taper down? I have never heard this.

[m in sc]

its just a tighter tolerance thread is all.