HPI Install RD

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There's not a lot of HPI install info I could find.
So this is what I went through for Mike's RD350.
He brought me his bike together but no wiring on the bike as the stock harness was taken off.
Mike did have everything mounted with the cdi and regulator.
I added lots of engine and frame grounds, then built a bare bones harness for just lights, brake lights, high and low headlight, charging system and tach power.

The hard part was where to set initial static timing as the HPI website showed setting it using a scale whether using clockwise or counter clockwise rotor rotation.

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This was misleading for me...

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Following those notes the timing was way off like *50-*60 degrees!

The proper static mark was to use the white hash mark on the left of the HPI logo for counter clockwise rotor direction.
I had to find this out by using a reversible 1/2 electric drill on the end of the crank to spin it to use my timing light.
(Engine smoked like crazy on the first startup due to me squirting oil in the intake to lube it good while doing this!)

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These pics is the pointer scribe mark with it set at 1.8mm BTDC.
I'll paint the rotor black next time as the chrome rotor was very hard to see when using the timing light!

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Like when I do a Vape/PD install I pull the clutch cover to use a adjustable wrench to hold the crank to torque the rotor bolt at 148" inch lbs with blue locktite.
Sorry that I didn't write down the rotor bolt length. I buy all my hardware from Belmetric.com.
I used 7mm x 1 hardened bolt with 7mm hardened fender washer first then a 8mm hardened thick washer and a hardened 7mm lock washer.   

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Mike mounted the regulator here and the CDI just under it.



Wiring loom and where Mike welded a ground lug for the grounds.





Led lights







Digital tach

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First try at fire up...
(Engine smoked like crazy on the first startup due to me squirting oil in the intake to lube it good when I was using a drill to spin engine trying to establish a static time)

Also, I found the choke on the right new carb was stuck open just enough to still be on!! (I was wonder why it didn't sound perfect right off the bat as I'm accustomed to)

Video link:

https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/Project%20mike%20pre%20fire.mp4

https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350/Project%20mike%201st%20fire%20hpi.mp4

[m in sc]

Chuck,

what i did with mine was to set the market to the max advance it would see, then set the pickup to line up with that at 23 or so degrees (working of memory here). to match with the timing curve in the cdi unit, and one at 17? or so for initial reference . using the dial back timing light, i timed it at 5 k or so at the advance there and adjusted, it was close, just had to nudge it a bit.. luckily the timing plate is adjustable.  I actually filmed the process doing it, but not sure where i put the movie file. It was sort of like doing an original H1 cdi ignition, which as you know timed it at >4k, running. 

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Yeah, still working with it.... not done yet.
When I was doing the timing and watching the curve go up and down...

[Czakky]

Following closely. I've got one on my bench ready for install....

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Chuck,

what i did with mine was to set the market to the max advance it would see, then set the pickup to line up with that at 23 or so degrees (working of memory here). to match with the timing curve in the cdi unit, and one at 17? or so for initial reference . using the dial back timing light, i timed it at 5 k or so at the advance there and adjusted, it was close, just had to nudge it a bit.. luckily the timing plate is adjustable.  I actually filmed the process doing it, but not sure where i put the movie file. It was sort of like doing an original H1 cdi ignition, which as you know timed it at >4k, running.

This one that Mike has both plates are adjustable, unlike yours.
Will post up more tonight.
The next video is it running proper and sounds killer on my STG 1 Build!

[m in sc]

yeah, i noticed that, the main mounting plate is adjustable. must've been a design change (in the right way), mines only adjustable on the sub plate, but i can get to it installed luckily with a ball nosed t handle.

this is good to point out if anybody has an 'older' one like i do.

[quocle603]

I was thinking of upgrading to this system. Waiting for the system to be back in stock. Emailed treatland about getting some more in stock for us.

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As I was researching around on HPI website and other HPI info on the web, I had found HPI has other timing curve sets.
These are the other 2 I found...




I don't think this curve is very different than the first one... I posted.




This was a Degree Chart that m in sc found and was posted on the old forum.





I had also made my own years ago and are very close.
I forgot to take a pic of my chart...

***NOTE*** Found my timing chart!!! 




I wrote the markings down on the bike stand to scribe these timing lines on the flywheel to use the timing light on to
establish 24* degrees high point scribe.
A static scribe mark at 19* degrees and a 3rd one at 14* degrees.
AS you can see I taped up the chrome flywheel so this old guy can see these marks with the timing light...
(was way too hard to see lines the first time with all that chrome like I was in a house of mirrors!)






I did this with a dial indicator in the spark plug.

24* degrees = 2.84mm BTDC

19* degrees = 1.70mm BTDC

14* degrees = 1.00mm BTDC









If you look at this pic below...this is TDC, take note of the little hand on turn #4.

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In the very beginning when I was trying to find static timing of 1.7mm BTDC
I used a drill to spin the engine with the ignition on and a timing light with the spark plugs grounded out to generate spark...

I had to have a second person hold the timing light at the scribe marks...





Video of it spinning...

https://imageevent.com/supertune/mikemrd350?p=37&n=1&m=-1&c=3&l=0&w=4&s=0&z=3