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HPI ignition not charging and running issues

Started by rd400canuck, June 04, 2020, 06:19:13 PM

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rd400canuck

Thanks for good advice. I made a pointer to verify 2mm and i had to retard it a little. I heard the idle smooth out a little when i did.

So far i really like the mid range.. theres such an improvement. I need to sort out jetting though. Hopefully i can get it to run as beautifuly as i had it with the stoxk ignition. 

Ive noticed it doeant like to rev out as much but that might be the 150s i have in it. Im guessing the different timing can affect jetting needs?

Heres a pic of my new off button hanging off the side.

m in sc

probably . throw  fuel at it till it pulls less @wot, then back off one size on the main.  then check plugs.

love the kill cord.  :dawg:

Economy Cycle John

that all makes sense, static timing is really the 25* because that's where the rotor is "mechanically" clocked for max advance and the curve retards from there. the 2.0 is just a point used within their curve to conveniently time/clock it with the marks and like Mark said isn't the trigger point.

Does their (HPI) rotor use a woodruff key? Do they offer a programmer?
www.EconomyCycle.com - RD/RZ Parts, Services, Tools, Accessories & Swag

m in sc

no keyway. the programmable one is a different box, i have no experience with that personally, dont know anyone that does.  :twocents:

rd400canuck

ok... no lights by the time I got home. I think I may have cooked the r/r when i had both wires connected to it. Anyone know how I would go about checking it with a multi meter before I order another one?

m in sc

probably fried it.

if i were you, id get that one linked above since you already have the the ground floated.

rd400canuck

ya, probably best.. I can't stop doing dumb shit lately lol... I just dumped an entire coffee in my lap at Tim Hortons drive through and I instantly thrust my legs up cause they were getting scolded underneath and my knee hit my key so hard I broke whatever holds the key tumbler in place. Now it wobbles around a bit and the steering wheel doesnt lock when i remove the key.  yay!    :bang: :bang: :bang: :bang:

rd400canuck


Well I got the full phase r/r from Amazon but I don't think I'm going to put the HPI back in. Ive been running the stock ignition for a couple days and I absolutely love the way the engine runs and I can also definitely notice the lack of flywheel especially idle and off idle. The HPI definitely made more mid-range thats for sure but the bike also felt less calm and and the motor shook more. It also wasnt as smooth at steady speeds and wold chuff a lot. Dont get me wrong, the bike certainly performs better with the HPI... I just really really liked the linear smooth nature of the bike with the stock ignition.

Plus the bike seemed to need rejetting with the HPI (the steady speed chuffing) and I need a break from jetting. I've had those carbs in and out 30 times in my efforts to arrive where I am now and the bike is jetted perfectly. I'm just going to enjoy the bike the way it is and maybe try again next spring. Perhaps I'll bring it with me to Deals Gap next year and do it then.

Thanks for all the help though... really appreciated as usual :)

85RZwade

I post waayyy too much

m in sc

i get it. However, im 99% sure you didn't have it timed correctly. that being said, i dont blame you either. if its good its good :cheerleader:

quocle603

I love coming back on the forums with awesome information. Been away for too long...
Do not underestimate the power of a two-stroke.

1975 Yamaha RD350 (modified), 1973 Yamaha RD350 (stock), 1971 Suzuki T500, 1981 Yamaha XS650 HS2, 1982 Honda MB5, 1980 Puch Maxi, 1979 Puch Magnum, 1993 Tomos Bullet, 2003 Malaguti Firefox F15 LC