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RD400 Torque Specs

Started by bigdavet, June 20, 2020, 07:42:40 PM

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bigdavet

Me again,

Man it's hot in AZ. But I digress....

Where can I find and copy a torque spec table for my '78 RD400?

Here is a screenshot of one I found on AirCooledRDClub. Is this a good one?

Unbelievably, that's the only question I have right now

bigdavet  :patriot:
1978 RD400 in progress
2007 BMW R1200RT

Yamaha 179

I looked the list over and, from memory, it looks pretty correct except for the swing arm, wheel spindles and alternator bolts.  I learned to tighten the swing arm, with bronze bushings and standard bearings, enough so that the arm would just remain level under its own weight; not fall and not have to be pushed down.  Then you lock the nut in place.  Front and rear axle nuts I just tighten to a reasonable amount.  The front is a procedure so you don't affect fork action; leave the pinch nuts loose until the axle is pulled into place by the nut.
Use the 8 pds ft torque for the stator mounting bolts and I use 12 pds ft for the rotor.
Lyn Garland   

SUPERTUNE

On a 400 with a flat headgasket, I would up the torque on the headbolts to at least 23 ft-lbs.
Yamaha makes swing arm shims to adjust the bushing play. I use 50 ft lbs for the swing arm bolt, then adjust shimming until swing arm just barley falls on its own weight. If loose at full torque and you don't have shims... you can cheat a little by belt sanding the inside bushing collar shorter to take up a little play. The frame just will pull in a little, no big deal.
Chuck
RD machine work, boring, porting, cranks and engine building.


Chuck 'SUPERTUNE' Quenzler III
Team Scream Racing LLC
1920 Sherwood St. STE A
Clearwater, FL. 33765
cqsupertune@tampabay.rr.com

ElFuegoBlanco

Quote from: Yamaha 179 on June 21, 2020, 10:41:55 AM
I looked the list over and, from memory, it looks pretty correct except for the swing arm, wheel spindles and alternator bolts.  I learned to tighten the swing arm, with bronze bushings and standard bearings, enough so that the arm would just remain level under its own weight; not fall and not have to be pushed down.  Then you lock the nut in place.  Front and rear axle nuts I just tighten to a reasonable amount.  The front is a procedure so you don't affect fork action; leave the pinch nuts loose until the axle is pulled into place by the nut.
Use the 8 pds ft torque for the stator mounting bolts and I use 12 pds ft for the rotor.
Lyn Garland   

Hey Lyn, can you expand on the front wheel a bit? I'm having a hard time getting it right.

If I leave the pinch bolts loose and tighten the axle nut, it leaves a gap between the speedometer gear housing and the fork. How do you ensure the wheel is centered between the forks?

Thanks,
Rob

patastinky

#4
found this in my RD350 Service Manual. https://i.imgur.com/twR6Zf4.jpg
1975 RD350 (under construction)