GT750 block puller needed

[TNWillie]

Some of you may have seen my post in the Suzuki 2 Stroke forum. I thought I'd post the same request in here. I'm rebuilding the top end on my GT750 and will need a puller to remove the cylinder block. Before I make my own, I thought it'd be wise to see if anyone has one they'd be willing to loan me. If they do, I'll pay the shipping both ways and even give the loaner a deposit if desired. Please PM me or respond here if you have one you'd be willing to loan me or know of someone who does and will. Thanks.

[Evans Ward]

You may want to try the Sundial Suzuki Forum for a possible hit.

[TNWillie]

If you're referring to the Suzuki Two Strokes forum, I posted a similar request there on 1/31. 32 views as of this morning but no responses. :(  Looks like I'll be making my own in the not too distant future. IF I do, I'll definitely make it available to others that find themselves in my position.

[teazer]

A  few years ago when Sundial was really active SuzukiDave had one I think and so did Alan Tucker in the Bahamas.

I went cheap and bought a suitable tap to cut a thread into the top section of the sleeve nut tunnels and used matching bolts to jack the barrel up slowly and evenly.   

A plate would be a better idea though.

You still have that Blue/white GT and did you ever get the 34mm carbs jetted correctly?

[TNWillie]

Having watched several videos on You Tube, I was impressed and new to the procedure you described. Very tempting.
As for your question..... yes, that's the one I have to pull the block on. And, its been so long since I last messed with the jetting that I honestly don't know if I got it right or not. Sadly, my memory doesn't compare with yours. To say I'm impressed with yours is an understatement. :)

[teazer]

Thanks,

I have built a few different GT750s and ported a few sets of barrels.  The last one I sold was the Dunstall which took a crap load of work to get right.  I loved how it looked but being so tall and heavy, it always felt like I was going to drop it as I rolled it off the center stand.

I have two GT750 projects on the go.  One is a Cafe Racer with TL1000 suspension and wheels and the other is the full on drag bike that I just got back from the guy that modified the frame for me.  So I just spent a couple off days modifying the ignition test jig so I could work out what was wrong with the way I programmed the Ignitech ignition.  It took longer than it should have to work out what was wrong but it's all good to go now.

[TNWillie]

Thought I'd update this thread with some good news. Not only was I able to free up the stuck pistons but I was extremely lucky to have been able to remove the block without the use of a puller. Yee haw!

[motodreams]

|Why do these cylinders get so jammed?  I foolishly bought a seized engine many years ago and it took hours of hammering on pistons to remove the cylinder.  Had not even considered it as an issue.

[TNWillie]

I think the main reason is the accumulation of rust between the studs and their respective bores combine with the adhesion of the base gasket to form one hell of a bond. At least, that's my opinion.

[teazer]

correct. water finds its way past the top sleeve nuts and the stud and barrels become chemically bonded.  Original design was plain washer and lock washer.  Later the plain washer was replaced with a dowty washer (rubber seals on a steel core) but they went hard and cracked and water gets in. 

Always replace those when rebuilding the top end and grease the studs.

[TNWillie]

I read a thread elsewhere about addressing this matter w/o the ridiculous expense of OEM washers by substituting o-rings of, naturally, a specific size that will crush and seal when the bolts are tightened. I believe I will be taking this route.

[teazer]

Dowty washers from Chinabay FTW.  Cheap and they work, plus a generous supply of grease on the studs.  Unless you ride a lot in the rain and/or leave the bike out all the time, that should work for 20 years.