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High Anxiety... wiring in the bucket!

Started by hayduke, April 10, 2021, 09:22:10 AM

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hayduke

I'm just beginning the process of updating the handlebar switches with repops off ebay and replacing the headlight bucket and ears with freshly painted ones. Every time I remove the headlight my anxiety peaks, and of course the left switch has slightly different wiring/connectors. I've identified most of the wires, though a few still have me scratching my head.

I'm trying to label all the connections inside, but I still have to drag the mess thru the hole in the back of the bucket... just wondering if you guys have any tips or pointers on the "best" way to do this without creating a bigger cluster fudge?

forexer


AAAltered

Having recently spent a ton of time in there, the wiring is actually quite logical once you study the color diagram - at least on the R5.  I did a bare frame tear down at this time last year.

Learn the difference between Brown and Chocolate.  Note the 1:1, 2:1, 3:1 and 4:1 connection points in the diagram.  Work through each area one at a time.  Ie right switch, left switch, brake lights, etc.   I've done this multiple times and haven't fried anything yet. 

Get one of Evans big laminated color diagrams if you don't have a good copy.

Good luck.
1971 R5
1976 RD200
2022 Moto Guzzi V7 850 Special

Evans Ward

He ordered a large laminate wiring diagram for his bike which will ship Monday. Good luck in finding your wiring issues!
1984 Yamaha RZ350
1976 Suzuki GT750
1972 Kawasaki H2 750 Mach IV

hayduke

Seems like this is the Zen part of motorcycling.. focus grasshoppa...

I went thru the whole harness many moons ago when a battery wire disintegrated mysteriously, I found several bad spots, and hoped I wouldn't have to be in there again.

I just ordered Evans schematic this morning.

Has anybody seen a write-up on the repop left switch on an RD400, or know which wires are which? Some are different colors from the OE switch.

Thanks for the support

SoCal250

Quote from: hayduke on April 10, 2021, 03:36:20 PM
I just ordered Evans schematic this morning.
That will be a big help  :thumbs:

Quote from: hayduke on April 10, 2021, 03:36:20 PM
Has anybody seen a write-up on the repop left switch on an RD400, or know which wires are which? Some are different colors from the OE switch.
I thought the aftermarket switches were same color wires as OE? If not, just take the clamp halves apart and look to see which wires go into each of the soldered connectors on the switches. You only have 3 switches to decode: Light Hi/Lo, Turn, Horn
75 Yamaha RD125B   75 Yamaha RD125B (project)
75 Yamaha RD250B   75 Yamaha RD200B (project)
73 Yamaha RD350     77 Yamaha RD400D   79 Yamaha RD400F  
91 Yamaha TZR250R  89 Yamaha FZR400   05 Yamaha FZ6   
05 Yamaha XT225TC  82 Honda MB5  02 Aprilia RS250 Cup (sold)

Diablo007

#6
Pay attention to how the wires feel/bend at the bullet connectors.  I've found more than one that has had the wire broken inside the insulation and not noticeable until you actually move the connector while holding the base of the wire.  Also a good crimping tool and the proper connectors help, not only for a clean look but they are actually better than auto parts store stuff.  Economy Cycle sells them as well as other vendors.

Also, check that all connections are tight and clean.  Changed out the broken horn button in my YSR switch gear today.  Horn still didn't work.  I had forgotten to clean up a couple of mating surfaces.
2 stroke junkie:
Too many motorcycles to list.  The highlights:
1973 Yamaha RD350 Cafe Racer project; 1983 Suzuki RG250 YammaGamma project; 1988 Yamaha YSR50/80 project; 1984 Yamaha RZ350; 1984 Yamaha RZ500

hayduke

Quote from: SoCal250 on April 10, 2021, 04:34:41 PM

I thought the aftermarket switches were same color wires as OE? If not, just take the clamp halves apart and look to see which wires go into each of the soldered connectors on the switches. You only have 3 switches to decode: Light Hi/Lo, Turn, Horn

I'd hoped so but a few wire colors are different. I got these from Niche Cycle off ebay, in the pictures they looked just like the ones from MikesXS and others. Made in Taiwan, look, feel and behave like the OE switches. I'll try to document what I find/figure out in case it may be of help to the next guy(gal)

AAAltered

I tried a Niche r/h R5 switch.  It has *13* wires as opposed to 8.  It looks great but I never got it to 100% work.  It doesn't have the Red/Yellow striped wire and I could not figure out what of the extra the Niche wires for that function was.  The result for me was that while 'most' things worked,  the headlight would only work in the "park" far-right key switch position.

I found an early XS switch, 306-83972-00-98 which is identical to the R5 235-83972-00-94 other than a black painted housing.  When I installed it it fixed my problem. 

I assume you have that 13 wire Niche switch, I'll be interested to hear what you figure out since I've got on on the shelf that's the nicest looking of all my switches.

1971 R5
1976 RD200
2022 Moto Guzzi V7 850 Special

hayduke

Aaah joy, this is going to be more fun than I thought!  :bang:

My new LH switch has 11 wires, 5 to a common connector, the rest loose. I just went to take a look at the ebay listing and their picture shows all loose wire ends... Imna contact the seller and see what's up with that.

This is what I ordered...https://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-RD400-Handlebar-Left-Right-Side-Switches-Switch-Set-/152828332971

SoCal250

#10
This is why I thought the repops were same as OEM. RD400 left switch
Maybe you should double check with John that wire colors are same as stock and then order one from him to make it easier on yourself.
75 Yamaha RD125B   75 Yamaha RD125B (project)
75 Yamaha RD250B   75 Yamaha RD200B (project)
73 Yamaha RD350     77 Yamaha RD400D   79 Yamaha RD400F  
91 Yamaha TZR250R  89 Yamaha FZR400   05 Yamaha FZ6   
05 Yamaha XT225TC  82 Honda MB5  02 Aprilia RS250 Cup (sold)

teazer

Aftermarket poarts are often manufactured to fit a number of models and often include wires and functions not applicable to your make/model.  For example Yamaha may have fitted a similar looking switch to say RD400 and XS400 and the XS would have a start button and internal wiring that may not be the same as the RD.

The OEM design would be slightly different for each bike but aftermarket may be one switch offered for both, and that's where you have to plot each wire combination to work out what's what. 

I recently bough switches for an early Honda and they included indicators and front brake switch that were not fitted prior to about 1968 ish, so you may have to do some detective work or get more accurate repops from John at Economy.

Yellow/red is typically starter solenoid which might be useful on some older Yamahas but not on an RD400.

But if you add in a modern ignition, additional functions, LED headlamp and modern solid state R/R, all with non OEM colors, you can drive yourself certifiably mad.  Think of it as a challenge.

hayduke

Just wanted to update the thread, Niche Cycles customer service sucks... it took a week and numerous emails/pictures to get them to say they shipped the wrong switch, in fact all their LH RD400 switches were wrong. Supposedly they're going to send a return shipping label, but that was 5 days ago. I ordered the switch from Economy, it arrived 2 days later and it's correct...

SoCal250

Quote from: hayduke on April 26, 2021, 08:47:08 AM
I ordered the switch from Economy, it arrived 2 days later and it's correct...
:thumbs:
75 Yamaha RD125B   75 Yamaha RD125B (project)
75 Yamaha RD250B   75 Yamaha RD200B (project)
73 Yamaha RD350     77 Yamaha RD400D   79 Yamaha RD400F  
91 Yamaha TZR250R  89 Yamaha FZR400   05 Yamaha FZ6   
05 Yamaha XT225TC  82 Honda MB5  02 Aprilia RS250 Cup (sold)

hayduke

New switches installed reasonably easily, look great and work well. I decided to postpone replacing the bucket and ears for another time.

Had a bit of a scare starting it up, I thought it was in neutral because it rocked back and forth easily, but it was up in 5th or 6th so when I turned the key for the first time no neutral light  :umm:  So I go OK and try to start it, several dry kicks, not normal, I'm starting to get worried.  A moment of dread overcame me, then I go for first gear, downshift, then another, then another, then the neutral light... woot! The I realized I had run the carbs dry last time I ran it, and that there's very little fuel in the tank, so it wasn't filling the bowls unless it was on Reserve. Doh!  Good thing I'm not trying to make a living at this