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1975 RD350B

Started by 85RZwade, May 17, 2021, 01:35:23 AM

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85RZwade

These arrived:



Along with some seals (most of which I discovered that I already have) and North America's allotment of clutch springs. More on (moron?) those later.
I plan to search for a jetting baseline and steal Jim's data if I come up with nothing. His Elsie should be close enough to use as a starting point...but that process is a long way off still! I have a bunch of Keihin jets and needles for the Air Striker on my KTM; the needles are NOZ as I recall. I haven't opened these new carburetors yet to see what jetting or needles they have.
I post waayyy too much

Striker1423

Stop teasing me! Lol

m in sc

what size? 28's? 30's?


85RZwade

28s. I'm trying to be mature and take the advice of those wiser and more experienced than I...so most people.
I post waayyy too much

m in sc

i would have gone with 30's. however...


jjh needles
42 pilots
155 mains to start.  :whistle:

:twocents:

85RZwade

Just like my wife; always there to tell me what I should have done! To be fair, I didn't ask, so I get what I get.
I post waayyy too much

RustyRD

I kindly refer to that as auto correct :whistle:

85RZwade

#37
Brought home to the barn a candidate front end. I say candidate because I'm not sure it's gonna work out.



1985 VF700F Interceptor donor, 39mm tubes in good condition. Adjustable air pressure, rebound and sorta compression, as its part and parcel of the TRAC anti-dive mechanism. I like the diameter, the general look, the brake calipers and the clip-ons. On the fence about the TRAC and the air adjustment, and put off by the length. They're overall more than 2" longer than RD350 forks.



Air pressure balance tube.





Rebound on the right



Air on the left, under a cap that looks like an adjuster knob



Air balance fitting is screwed to the bottom of the upper clamp, so the clip-ons aren't going anywhere unless something is altered with the air system.



Brakes should be more than adequate. Torque Reactive Anti-dive Control in all it's glory.
Then there's that 16" wheel. I might use it at first to determine the viability of the fork itself, but wire spokes are my preference. I need to read up on offset, as I imagine the offset for a 16" wheel is not optimum for an 18", which is where I'd like to end up. Did I mention how freakin' long they are?
I post waayyy too much

m in sc

dont runt he 16. seen that before, its terrible and sketchy as fuck.

you're going to need to graft an 18 on there soemhow. btw, when serviced correctly, the anti dive trac system actually works well. 

85RZwade

I do want to end up with 18" wire spokes! What do you think about the triple clamp offset?
(Siri, what motorcycle has an 18" front wheel, 39mm fork tubes and a super short steering stem?)
I post waayyy too much

m in sc

my opinion.. youre going to have some work ahead of you. after you swap the stem out, the forks are going to be way long. not even getting into a wheel swap yet.

id skip all this and go with a stockish frontend unless you really want to get deep into fab work.


85RZwade

See, that's what I expected you to say in the first place!
I post waayyy too much

m in sc

when i put the fzr front end on my bikes it was a huge pia. but worth it and i enjoyed it. I also have access to a mill and a lathe so.. and that was very useful.




85RZwade

Next up: Suzuki SRAD-era conventional forks and my crankshaft should be arriving any minute!
I post waayyy too much

rodneya

I recently bought a 95% complete SRAD 750 that was sawzoled in half for a movie prop for $200. Sold the motor for $100 and used the wheels, swingarm and suspension on the 83 Katana I am working on. Check fork conversion table on all balls website, but you will probably just need two bottom RD tapered steering bearings and some spacers to make it fit.

What are you thinking fore a front wheel.