Daytona Special Barn Find

[bitzz]

Those bearings are 40 years old.
IMO the ONLY route from here is to rebuild that crank.
... and seeing how it's an American spec Daytona crank you might consider using a 1A1 crank.
If it was me I would be replacing it with a 3J7 crank and run a late model (CDI) ignition

[DaytonaBarnFind]

Will most likely will have the crank rebuilt. Will add that to the while its apart to do list. This bike 100% stock 3100 mile Daytona. It did sit in a barn in NH for 35yrs. Think I'm leaving this stock.  Have another 79 that will get tricked out, a little.  Thx for your comments.

[m in sc]

id def leave it stock, but id also address every seal and bearing on the bike. 

[DaytonaBarnFind]

id def leave it stock, but id also address every seal and bearing on the bike. 

Agreed!!

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[Alain2]

/quote]

3j7 crank and factory cdi components are very hard to find. You would be better with a1a crank with aftermarket cdi.

[bitzz]

Not for us Canadians
Want some 3J7 parts?

And there was an Australian   CDI RD400 Daytona too.

[m in sc]

that low a mileage id consider a better crank, but leave the rest alone (stock). def mod the other one.

[teazer]

RD250, 400 E,F and G models all came with CDI in Australia IIRC.  We had a few too many RDs back in the day and most were "projects' AKA basket cases or needed a lot of work to get them running.

[DaytonaBarnFind]

What's the best way to clean up the wheel lips while retaining the original black paint?  The spokes cleaned up nice with scotchbright pad, so the same on the lips? Any other wheel restoration ideas?  Thx

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[cygnus]

If you want to leave the exhaust flapper in place and functioning and keep it looking oem as possible (use the original vac tubing) I can offer how I did it and maybe save you some homework. Original style carb holders with the vac ports are not available as a repop or NOS unless you can wait years for a set to appear that aren't shelf rotted. The closest thing are holders from a Euro spec RD250LC 4L1.  These are a perfect match and have the correct stuffers. The RD250LC had a tiny crossover and the ports in the holders are  larger than those for the 400 Special brass adapters and obviously don't have the threaded insert.

The NOS 250LC parts are hard to find and stupid expensive. I bought Japanese made Tourmaster knockoffs part #CHY-47
https://www.ebay.com/itm/153478948360?hash=item23bc0ee608:g:n-IAAOSwq25c0VMH

Then you just need to spin up some "capped" adapters that fit the holders. Proper size orifice drilled through the center for 6mm x 1.0 thread and then thread for the oem Daytona vac nipples to screw into. After they are fabricated you can then radius them on the inside of the holder easily. Use the Yami wireclamps part#90467-15012-00 for the adapters (these can be ordered in the USA. When your done only a knowledgeable person with their face stuck down there will notice there is something "odd".

[cygnus]

x

[DaytonaBarnFind]

Replacing my intake manifolds they were leaking.  What's the trick to stop leaks?  What torque specs? I hear 10Ftlbs, which seems like a lot tp me, 120InLbs.  New gasket between case and Reed box (no RTV sealer), black RTV around the manifold circle and reed case.  Torque diagonally.  Thanks in advance...