1975 RD350(LC) Preservation-mod Hellride

[m in sc]

I'd mark that up to misadjustment causing it to slip. da sand the steels (or use a scotchbrite on a 90 degree air tool). you running a7 disc clutch and fzr/yz frictions?
I set mine at just toughing, the 3/4 turn out.

there should be a ball in the actuator, captured, and one between the rod and pusher. 

[irk_miller]

I'd mark that up to misadjustment causing it to slip. da sand the steels (or use a scotchbrite on a 90 degree air tool). you running a7 disc clutch and fzr/yz frictions?
I set mine at just toughing, the 3/4 turn out.

there should be a ball in the actuator, captured, and one between the rod and pusher. 

HAHA.  Well that makes a lot more sense. I am one ball short. 

I am running the 7 disc clutch, but not the FZR discs afaik.  I have a Barnett clutch in transit from Economy.  Trying to decide if I put this back together after a scrubbing these polished plates on a surface plate, or wait out the Barnett clutch. 

[m in sc]

look in the actuator. there's 3 peen marks from the motor side, behind that should be a ball. (not removeable) then the adjuster screw.  .02

[irk_miller]

Despite all the confusion, a working clutch is a thing.  Honed the steel plates on the surface plate and put it all back together with 2mm shims under the springs.  Won't change spring rate, but hopefully takes away the early softness in the preload.  The clutch is working really well for now. 

I think I have the timing part of the equation figured out.  Not a fan of having to time it by removing and shifting the rotor. I might see about making a plate to move the sensor 10 mm, so maybe 5 mm off TDC in either direction.  I think it took 5 tries and my rotor slipping twice to get it right. 

I started at 4mm advanced and finished at 3mm. Figuring a mm is somewhere close to 2 degrees.

I still want more power at the bottom end. I'm not saying there isn't any, but I think it has more to give. The clutch is working for now. It manages the power band much better, but I can't wait until the needle jets and needles I ordered show up P2 6FJ6-3. It's breaking up halfway through the powerband. I think it's not too far off.  As a point of reference: my street is perfectly level and straight and roughly 150 yards from sign to sign. I got from 0 - 86mph in 100 yards.

[m in sc]

on a 350, 2,0mm is 19.9 degrees, and it changes as the crank moves, more drastic as the piston move away from tdc. that being said, yes, you can slot and move the pickup a bit. 3mm is way too advanced for the whole curve. stick to 2.0 or 1.9mm.

this will help:

[irk_miller]

I finally got out to a Coffee and Cars and it was on the RD. What a blast this bike has become. I'm super close on the tune. I've been timing it wrong all along, but I finally have it legitimately timed to 1.85mm, checked, double checked and confirmed. That alone made the bike beyond wild. All the power I was searching for at the bottom end is there now. I'm thinking the carbs are good through 3/4 throttle. Something might be missing at the top end.

40 pilot
230 main
P2 needle jet.
TM32 stock needle

Teazer has some notes using a 6FJ6-3 needle with the P-2 needle jet.  I have a set, but I'm holding on swapping them out.  The tip is super fat, so I am not sure how that will play on the street.   How each parameter on a needle affects output is something I still have a long way to go to be educated at guessing on needles.



I lost a shifter on the road during one of my shakedown runs. That's a first for me.  Fortunately, I lost it in 2nd gear, so super easy to u-turn and get it.  A longer screw and a locknut fixed it. Anyone else have any issues with the length of these stock shifters?  I keep wanting to miss 4th gear.  Not sure if it's something to do with positive contact on the shift because of the length of the shifter or something else.  I'll get used to it, but just something I am sorting.

[NoRiders]

So pleased it's working out, that bike looks uber cool.

Meanwhile my bike stopped/petered out on an elongated test ride and will not start....double/triple checked everything....nothing! :/

[pidjones]

Back in the '70s I had to drop my shifter one spline to keep me from missing shifts.

[irk_miller]

The fun continues.   

Anyone ever seen this?  I spun something in the transmission.  Sounds pretty awful, but it runs and rides like nothing happened. I'm about to pull the covers and I have a spare transmission, but hoping I am not going at it too blind.

[irk_miller]

May have isolated the issue to the main axle that holds the clutch basket, without pulling the motor.  Still diagnosing, but I can spin that shaft with my hand and get the sound pretty quick and easy.  Possible bearing, bent shift fork or spun gear?

[NoRiders]

I've not the best experience of this type of issue, but that sounds like a gear contacting a case maybe?

The sound comes across as amplified, like the case is acting as a sound box......perhaps hold a screwdriver against the case with your thumb of the hand you're holding it in your ear.

[m in sc]

where's the bearing retainer behind the clutch basket? you're missing a part if you didnt remove it. that will cause the trans input shaft bearing to possibly move. the clip should hold it but still

It does sound like a bad bearing. I had this happen 2x on mine, turned out to actually be a bearing on 1, and a 4th gear on the other.

regardless, take motor out and pull bottom end apart. sucks.

[rodneya]

You can flip the motor upside down and split the cases without removing the top end

[irk_miller]

As always, thanks for the help on this.  The retainer was already removed when I took that video.  I wanted to get clear access to the bearing before I took it all apart. 

It would appear that two of my gears dried out.  I can only assume this is from a low oil level.  Either my stupidity or something is amiss. I would lean towards stupidity on this one. I measured oil on the fill, so maybe I measured wrong.  Slathered some oil on them after I pulled it apart and it all got quiet.  No other reason those gears could dry out is there?  Sure does explain why it rode the rest of the way home as though nothing happened, just loud af. 

   

[m in sc]

i ran a transmission completley dry once. total brain fart. realized it 20 miles from home. 

pulled over, got 2 qts of oil from a gas station, dumped in 1 1/4, and it never made a noise again and worked fine. got lucky.