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Manual clutch conversion for the CT125: headache but got it

Started by m in sc, May 03, 2023, 04:54:14 PM

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m in sc

the novelty of the auto clutch on the CT had worn off, after over 3000 miles with it, i decided to change it out.

I had to order  a'racing' part from thailand to get the primary gear engaged sleeve, took over 6 weeks, which then fucked up the oiling int he crank, and i had to bypass the slinger holes, and machine a sleeve to direct it or it would starve the top end. 9cranks are different from the trail to the grom, for example).  also, the clutch stack is shorter, so I had to use a trail clutch, but stack out the bearing int eh pressure polate to make the stock grom cover work, which, i also had to machine to accept the kickstarter.

I used a factory grom clutch perch, lever, cover, pusher, etc. aftermarket pressure plate and steels.

i have since these pics routed the cable and bracket under the bodywork and it works as if it was factory, and is definately better.

was it absolutely worth it? i didnt expect it to be this much of a pain in the ass, i have probably 10-11 hours in it and around 200 bucks in parts. lol.

you -can- get a kit to add a clutch lever and cable and leave the centrifugal clutch on the crank, which, in hindsight might have been the way i went if i knew it was going to be an issue.

Im waiting on a supercub trim (chrome ring) for the cover to swap out the black grom one, but this is it for now. however, now i can clutch up a wheelie, which is pretty cool. lol.






stock



stock clutch bell to left, aftermarket to right which is just a flywheel. this is the part that took 6 weeks to arrive.





crank end had to be drilled and sleeved to redirect oil, as these holes are what passed it into the spinner and clutch. w out blocking these, top end would have starved of oil.



sleeve i lathed up. this was a press fit deep into the end of the crank (rh side of pic) after i drilled out the blocked portion between the 2 sections w the oil ports. the oil goes thrut he crank, then into the bearing int eh side cover, and channels up to the top end in a really convoluted way. 



grom clutch stack rh side, trail to left. I used the billet pressur eplate and the discs off the grom one. the stack is too tall to clear the spinner on the trail, so had to go shorter.

fyi, the cover and some of the clutch parts were leftovers i had from the '14 grom.




as installed. but like said, bracket was re-bent and welded and now sits behind the bodywork, much cleaner.



clutch lever action. lol.  afte ri testrode it, i did take the standalone mirror perch off, and it all looks factory now.



what a pain int he ass, but fun too.

2 strokes are so much easier.  :olaf: :cheerleader:


The Red Scourge

Ma, what a pain!  Glad you got it finished.  It looks super clean too.
'76 Yamaha RD400C
'71 Kawasaki G3SS
'88 Honda CBR400RR
'90 Yamaha FZR400/600 hybrid

m in sc

thanks. i rode it around again last night, its def better and seems quicker, the new flywheel is lighter a little bit so that probably helps.

:vroom:

Kawtriplefreak