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Crank nose Play and Points Timing

Started by Pravin, September 01, 2021, 10:07:33 AM

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Pravin

Hello Experts ,

I have been working on Getting my bike converted back to points for past 3  months ..

The cam I got had the PIN removed and i had to time it at 2MM BTDC and was successful but then it slipped ..

So I put the pin back and now with the standard cam pin its firing at 3.5 MM BTDC fully retarded points plate.

Then I checked my crank with Dial gauge and magnetic stand and it found 0.15mm deviation on the crank nose .and as per the manual I have its limit is .03MM

Now question is will tat affect the timing ? or add up to the timing ? I am about to open my engine and have the crank balanced ...the question comes in my mind is my CDI set up was working well and firing at 2mmBTDC but not the points .

Need some guidance on what direction I should go and whether the crank rebalance will help .

Set up

Stock RD350
Original new points set to 0.35mm gap
Original new cam
Generator and Magnet is used but in good condition no issues there as the battery is charging , voltage is around 13 to 14.5V during the ride ..the first time before the cam slipped...

Regards.
Pravin Dalvi






m in sc

i have never ever heard of that on a mis-clocked points cam. Is the rotor slipped? is the woodruff key in? Are you using cams and cranks from different markets? id redrill the points cam and relocate the pin.


.. have to ask, why swapping back to points?


Pravin

Hi SC ,

Yes the pin has been relocated , even  I used a standard cam which has the original POIN and original location from my friend ..
No Rotor was at place the woodruff key was on it place when i pulled the magnet out...

Swapping back to points :) ---- I know ... all are going forward and am backwards , been owning RD since last 20 years , first RD CDI since I bought , second bike TCI since I bought -- converted to MZB and Cafe ..

Now the first bike I was saving for MZB and then thought I never experienced the POINTs bike and decided to get my first RD running on points and then base line it and decide whether to continue on points or go MZB route which I think I can do anytime when I have the money .

Points conversion is also not cheap thought :)) spent half of the MZB cost already ;)

But yes am really keen on getting this set up work ..I can re drill the stock cam and relocate the pin but does it solve the problem ? does the .15 mm play has an impact ? how can I retard her more from 3.5 mm BTDC to 2MM BTDC without relocating pin ?

Cheers ,
Pravin


Pravin

This is how I measured the play

https://youtu.be/V9T3E9bkzz0

On spare crank also I have .1 mm play
https://youtube.com/shorts/Eu3UC8HtS7k?feature=share

So question is shall I re drill my cam , move the pin where it gives me 2mm leaving the crank with this play ?

Or rebalance or rebuild and use and will thay give me standard timing ?

Cheers
Pravin

m in sc

YOU CANT. SOMETHINGS OFF. I WONDER IF THE WOODRUFF KEY IS DIFFERENT FOR CDI BIKES,(assume that what this was?)  or soembody sold you the wrong points cam. Im not sure whats going on there

Pravin

Hi SC ,

So the crank play that am experiencing has nothing to do with timing ?

I have got the used set up from my friends bike only points are new ... Cam I have tried 2 same results ..

Any thoughts?

m in sc

play isn't going to throw it off that much. it needs to be addressed but i have given my thoughts up top. when crank is finished being rebuilt, then go at it. until then just wasting time. I think you have mismatched parts



1976RD400C

If the points gap is too much it will cause excessive spark advance.
'76 RD400 green  '76 RD400 red   '84 RZ350

bitzz

Quote from: Pravin on September 01, 2021, 11:08:17 AM
This is how I measured the play

https://youtu.be/V9T3E9bkzz0

On spare crank also I have .1 mm play
https://youtube.com/shorts/Eu3UC8HtS7k?feature=share

So question is shall I re drill my cam , move the pin where it gives me 2mm leaving the crank with this play ?

Or rebalance or rebuild and use and will thay give me standard timing ?

Cheers
Pravin

Yamaha says 0.03mm radial runout on the crank...if I'm reading your dial indicator right, you have 0.15mm
You need a crank.

pidjones

Your crank certainly seems to run untrue. This needs corrected first.
"Love 'em all.... Let GOD sort 'em out!"

Pravin

Got my crank balanced today ....with bearings on its withing .03 to .04

Hope am good , will install it and see if am getting any help in timing ..

https://youtu.be/I-ELqBrpo3A

Regards,
Pravin

teazer

Why do I recall a post somewhere that said that CDI cranks had the keyway 90  degrees different to points cranks?  Of course I can't find that posting now or remember who posted it.. :whistle:

Someone should know the answer, but it should not be hard to re-clock the points cam.

Pravin

Ok just to add or clear the CDI part ..

My Bike was originally on points and not on CDI Originally ..... then was converted to CDI ..and when she was running on CDI the key was still in the same slot  on the crank  , yes position in magnet may be different .

But now am just going back to points so the original magnet is matching the key right ?

Cheers,
Pravin

m in sc

should be.

If i remember correctly, the keyway should be straight up when #1 is at TDC.


Pravin

Great !

I am going to do the crank swap over weekend and Monday .... Will install the ignition and update how it goes fingers crossed

Cheers
Pravin