Looking for tech advice about Vape Ignition installation on a 1975 RD250B

[RDryan]

On second thought supposing no one cares to entertain my "wire a hidden kill switch for dummies" query that is OK....cause I gotta another problem with no easy work around. Thing is when I acquired this Vape Ignition I also purchased this fancy pantsy "battery eliminator" by Excel. So I just took the bike for a ride and noticed my lights don't work, I guess that the battery eliminator just doesn't store enough juice to keep lights on? I dunno what to say except it was recommended by the RD guys at HVC and I know I got the leads hooked up correctly as I'm not that dumb but it just doesn't seem to work. Maybe that's something silly too as even the neutral light won't come on and the thing is I really wouldn't have bothered to go battery less if it wasn't for the fact that I got this "battery eliminator". I dunno I guess it's a moot point anyways because my local bike shop told me that too pass Ma. state inspection bikes need to power lights without the motor running. I don't wanna give up but I'm thinking having the battery is probably the way to go as I'm not racing the bike or looking to build a feather weight machine.

[SUPERTUNE]

You have to have a battery to have lighting without engine running, for a superlight setup, the li-po's are the way to go, but pricey around $70-$90 in a motorcycle sizes battery.
You could go with a RC car or drone battery also for a bit cheaper... but not sure how they will get along with the charging system?
Chuck

[m in sc]

regarding the hidden kill, all you need is a 2 pole switch where in one position, it grounds the blue wire, then when off, it leaves the blue wire open.

fwiw, nick found a tiny battery that will work , its like HALF the size of the alarm battery i like to run. this might be the ticket. I'll see if i can track the number down. 

[m in sc]

update, parts unlimited number is 2113-0217, john at EC sells em i think as well. Thanks to Nick for the info. I think he will sell them as well.

[murphywv]

New on here and happy the forum is back up. I am two weeks out on finishing my RD up. The battery question was something I researched as well. Was going to use a 12V nickle metal hydrid (rc car) battery because of size and weight but came to the conclusion it probably would not like the charging system very well. Found that a lithium iron phosphate battery is much more tolerant of over voltage and has a better life expectancy. The one I ordered was twice the size of the RC batt but less weight. got mine from Bioenno Power. I think it is actually for a solar setup.

[m in sc]

thats good to know.

as an fyi, i had one of the alarm batteries in my rd, lasted 8+ years with an mzb/powerdynamo/vape.( i just changed it last year)  I like the smaller ones if i can use them, but if you have the room, the alarm batteries work just fine as well. zero charging issues. 

[RDryan]

Hmm it's interesting that you could get away with batteries small enough for an rc car. I remember having fun with those as a kid. I almost all of em, rc10, Tamiya fox, grasshopper, frog. A buddy of mine had the wild one. Well anyway I put my honda ruckus scooter battery back in and let there be light ;D 

Put a nice ride on her today in and out of around town maybe 50 miles and created another dilemma. Well I put a good little 50% of door knob size dent right on the bottom of one of my chambers whilst riding out of my driveway where theres this dip and rock meets the street. Kinda a bummer and the makings of another thread on how to remove dents I imagine. ...but you really have to bend over to see it and I just love the sound coming from those dg pipes.  ;D

[~JM~]

Do you have a Batteries Plus store nearby?

https://www.batteriesplus.com/battery/sla-sealed-lead-acid/12?page=1&perPage=50

[m in sc]

thats the alarm battery, every home depot and lowes have them as well, near the lighting aisle.   

[SUPERTUNE]

I'll add a couple of pics and tips also to help the future installs... (RD250/350 basically the same bike)

I use some Permatex Ultra Gray or Black silicone gasket maker I mush in on the back of the stator wires to support them and keep them from vibration, as I've chased my tail before from these rubbing to bare wires and shorting out.






I also have had to grind the back of the stator plate on some engines cases to clear and sit flat.





Another tip I'm now doing on battery system setups when using a relay for the kill switch with stock wiring and ignition switch.
I'm running some extra blue wire from kill coil lead back to the side cover with a bullet connector for a emergency bypass of the relay to have the bike run with no battery or ignition to get home on with blown fuses, dead battery, bad ignition switch, wiring problems and or losing your keys and needing to get home.  But, this means no running lights also and have to use in gear with brakes on to stall out engine to kill it.
This is on a RD400 where the relay is mounted under the tank right behind the steering neck.





On RD350 I mount the relay under the rear tank support, so access to the blue wire on the relay can just be unplugged by lifting up the seat.




On RD350's I weld a tab on the frame to mount the coil. I do grind a little clearance at the gusset at the bottom of the coil also



On RD400 I bolt in the coil from the right side gusset with a spacer to center the coil in the frame.
In this pic it's hard to see that other than the 8mm nut at the bottom of the coil...You can see the gold bolt where the relay is mounted in front of the coil.

[SUPERTUNE]

Of course you should always verify timing with a timing light and set marks from a piston dial indicator marked on the flywheel and a pointer.
Couple of pics...

Chuck










Video


https://imageevent.com/supertune/paulsrd400?p=248&n=1&m=-1&c=3&l=0&w=4&s=0&z=3

https://imageevent.com/supertune/paulsrd400?p=249&n=1&m=-1&c=3&l=0&w=4&s=0&z=3

[retaRD]

I also have had to grind the back of the stator plate on some engines cases to clear and sit flat.

I thought I was crazy years ago installing mine.
When tightening the stator plate adapter ring I noticed the stator plate flexing outward, it was hitting the seal casting of the case before the adapter ring was bottoming.
I modified some washer spacers into a "D" shape to space the whole setup out a couple mm's. 
I guess some engine cases are different than others.

I'm planning (procrastinating) rewiring my whole bike, but when I do I'll chuck up the stator plate and cut it to clear the cases.