Daytona

[cygnus]

In this case I'm not painting anything in keeping with survivor status. When I come across rust I just address it from getting worse. If he does sell it down the road the new owner may have their own ideas on a restoration or leaving a survivor. They are only original once. Really gritty greasy stuff I just toss in an ultrasonic with Dawn or Dawn Ultra. I also use Evaporust as it gives stuff a nice clean finish without any wire brush or scotchbrite scratches and doesn't remove any sacrificial coatings. On plastic or rubber I use 303 Aerospace. It really is a restorative and protective wonder. I spent 4 hours degreasing the old girl and getting all the mouse piss off before I began hahaha.

[cygnus]

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[cygnus]

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[cygnus]

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[cygnus]

I also replaced the seals on both airbox lids. I can confirm quantity one of 51Y-14462-00-00 is enough to do both, but, with only 12mm left over so dont make a mistake! Also, the Uni filter I purchased was too damn tall. I dont know if the top portion of this box is shorter for the 2V0 foam filter than the prior paper filter or what. I cut the cage down to fit perfect. No biggie but a pain in the ass.

[cygnus]

All five seals leaking here and neutral switch broken on all 3 ears.

[cygnus]

The kicker seal and clutch cover gasket were weeping as well. Plus the clutch seemed sticky and I wanted to r/r the oil pump shaft seal. So I went ahead and pulled the hub to make swapping the shift seal simple by removing the shift shaft. Very clean in the cases and everything looked good. Cleaned the plates/springs etc and soaked a day in fresh Maxima MTL.

[cygnus]

In going thru wiring and connections I use deoxit D5 to clean/lube. Good stuff. I still have to repair the mouse damage but have everything I need. But, the fuse box saddened me. Main circuit had been hot and one ear was so weak from it that it had broken. Sad because this one still has a readable paper roadmap! NOS part is $158. I see Economy Cycle has a repop for $30. Has anyone used one of those and can comment on the terminal crimp quality etc ? Also, these brass terminals I cant find but the older style tinned terminals are readily available. I can fix this box if I can confirm the 1NL-W8215-00 terminals will fit the keepers in this box if anyone can comment

[cygnus]

Before I pulled the pump I set it up on the bench to test. I ran a half pint of Marvel Mystery Oil thru first to clean it all out (smells minty fresh now!) then switched to Yamalube. Works fine throughout the range of rpm and bail adjustment. I have one question about the pump if you don't mind as I haven't had one in my hand for years. When I pulled it off the cover there was oil in the cavity where the worm and pinion gear run. Are the pinion and gear lubricated by oil from the pump or do you need to add oil in the cavity before you reattach to cover? The manual doesn't address it specifically.

[~JM~]

Fairly certain the injector pump cavity is intended to be dry. I found rust & aluminum oxidation in one of mine from moisture intrusion/retention.

That Evapo-Rust stuff is an awesome product!

[Tuck]

In going thru wiring and connections I use deoxit D5 to clean/lube. Good stuff. I still have to repair the mouse damage but have everything I need. But, the fuse box saddened me. Main circuit had been hot and one ear was so weak from it that it had broken. Sad because this one still has a readable paper roadmap! NOS part is $158. I see Economy Cycle has a repop for $30. Has anyone used one of those and can comment on the terminal crimp quality etc ? Also, these brass terminals I cant find but the older style tinned terminals are readily available. I can fix this box if I can confirm the 1NL-W8215-00 terminals will fit the keepers in this box if anyone can comment

I had purchased the fuse box from Economy and have had no issues. However, its not plug & play. I had to swap a couple of wires, I don't remember which two. Just follow your wiring diagram and you'll be fine. It may be plug & play for the earlier models, but not the Daytona. I guess that's what makes it "Special".

[cygnus]

Wow, can't imagine that being run totally dry but you guys know more than me. I couldn't really identify the oil as it was 'aged".......it may have been from the cover shaft seal leaking. Where the pinion spins in the cover bushing, the spacer on the pump body end and the pinion on the sun gear i would think that stuff wouldn't last long dry. And yeah, I'm an Evaporust fan hahaha.

Thanks about the fusebox info. I would still like to repair this one, but, later on if you know what I mean. For that price, swapping wires is no issue.

[cygnus]

lathe down an adapter to fit in there threaded to 1/8" npt for the ports, or whatever the stock thread is on those.

Forgot to say thanks for the adapter idea Mark  ;D

[cygnus]

Had to use the pencil torch to heat up the coagulated grease/crud around the clutch worm ball before I could clean it out haha. Threw the whole unit in the evaporust with the pump cable. I ordered the Economy Cycle fuse box. Before trying to repair the old one with the NOS Yami contacts I thought I better see how the rest of the originals were. I was snapping them off with my pinkie no effort. Plus, mouse piss had apparently run down the wire entrance and the wires reek.....Im done with that

[Clem]

Great job so far. Is that oil pump cable the original or a repop?