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Harbor Freight ultrasonic cleaners

Started by IR8D8R, February 15, 2023, 01:40:25 PM

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IR8D8R

I just discovered that the inexpensive Harbor Freight ultrasonic cleaner cannot withstand constant use with methanol.

I was afraid it wouldn't handle it but for $80 it was worth a shot. I was using it to clean flux from circuit boards. It looked promising for a while but after last weekend it began to show signs of distress. Acrylics and polycarbonate often can't handle contact with alcohols. Isopropyl alcohol for sure. Methanol either apparently. 

I thought the bottom grid was something more robust. It went first. lasted about a week before it curled up. Now the lid is crazing and cracking in week 3. Must be polycarbonate. Guess I'll be ordering an all-metal version.

IR8D8R

Plasticman

I bought the all metal one because I was worried the plastic cover of the smaller model might deform or yield.  I've only run my once, but it appears to work fine.

Rob
1976 - RD400 - road racer
1977 - RD400 - project (single shock/cartridge fork/modern wheels/brakes)
1978 - RD400 - Auburn themed motorcycle
1979 - RD400 - Daytona (under restoration)

sav0r

Buy the largest one you can afford. eBay has a ton of great options. I've had one for years now.
www.chrislivengood.net - for my projects and musings.

Kawtriplefreak

I plan to fire up my 30 liter for the 1st time tomorrow morning after chores. I have the chamber flanges for the DGs on my Gray Ghost RZ soaking in degreaser in a huge pickle jar for the 1st experiment.

RDryan

I have the same inexpensive, plastic one and I have used it for cleaning my RD carbs. Only used it a couple times. It's definitely kinda small but when I took the plastic tray out  naturally I gained more room inside to put in the whole carbs and it didn't seem to break. I never used any more intense/stronger cleaner other than recommended HF powder solution with warm water although I did add some pine sol. Good to know you may kill it with methanol, LOL. I actually recall it doing a nice job for my limited use and needs. I also have a cheap 10 gal. air compressor from HF. So combining both of those cheap tools was absolutely adequate just for my do it yourself carb clean but I dunno if I could get more done with it? Way cheaper and a great experience added than to pay a professional. Heck I'm not sure the pros locally would even want to do it for me. For example I bought my RD from the local Yamaha dealer on a special Yamaha promo sales event they had five years ago and they did all the typical barn find stuff to get it to run but it always ran way too lean. Me being a newbie I found this forum :olaf: and threw everything including the kitchen sink at it to correct the lean running, hey it was winter and I had it for a couple years at that point. So anyways that's why I got the HF ultrasonic cleaner and now she runs a bit rich but so much better and I'm thankful for the community support here. Otherwise the bike would still be literally useless. 

sav0r

I've never seen the need to run any volatile/flammable solutions in mine. I have a pretty decent range of things I clean. Usually, simple water and dish soap will do the trick. A presoak and quick scrub goes a long way to making the ultrasonic run work. When I want to shine aluminum I use the Simple Green HD (it's purple). For brass I will use brass solutions, google it, tons of info on that from the gun hobby. For jets, I just put the brass solutions in a glass jar, toss all the jets and other brass bits in there, then submerge that in the tank. That way I don't have to dump the full tank of whatever solution I have in there.

I have a 15L tank. It's good for most everything, especially most motorcycle parts. At the race car shop I now work in (got laid off from my 12 year construction job a month ago due to pending bankruptcy) we have a 30L. The 30L takes longer to warm up and of course uses more solution, but you can do larger parts or more parts at once. Just something to consider when you buy. The reason I say to go larger is because eventually you are going to want to put something large in there. For example, I did a cast iron frying pan once and it came out amazing. Also, the prices have halved since I bought mine. I think I paid nearly $400 for my 15L.

Finally, and as a former safety professional, flammable solvent in an ultrasonic tank is a bomb waiting to happen. Usually, when a flammable solvent is needed, the tanks is "explosion proof." They come with all sorts of controls and systems to help reduce the bomb like features of the system. It's going to be a bad time if you explode your tank in your home shop. I understand for IR8D8R's use it may be required, but at a minimum, run it outside.  :twocents:
www.chrislivengood.net - for my projects and musings.

m in sc

I find that to be a bit alarmist TBH.  Ultrasonics can absolutely run flammable liquids, been doing it since the early 90s, have never ever had one flame out.  I mean, don't run gasoline in one, but even the old parts washers ran what was basically kerosene in them, zero 'explosion' issues and they ran an overhead light and a 120 v pump. 

water based solutions will hardly ever clean as well as other solutions. just a fact. also, introducing water based solvents into cast aluminum and zinc parts will eventually cause corrosion if they are not dried correctly , usually being heated to leach out the water., or spraye dout with carb cleaner, or soaked in alcohol.  But, to each their own. I have never, ever had an issue running carb cleaner in mine, and its the same one ive had since 1994.

Im not saying you shouldn't be cautious. But using your head goes a long way as well, and just being realistic. whats going to actually cause ignition and cause an 'explosion' from an ultrasonic? they dont run sealed lids. there's no pressure.  there's no exposed wires.  Just always get one with a stainless bin.

Just my take on it.



1976RD400C

My small Harbor Freight cleaner got some water on the circuit board and blew a little 1/2 amp fuse that was soldered on the board. Replaced it and all has been good.
'76 RD400 green  '76 RD400 red   '84 RZ350

pidjones

#8
I've used ultrasonics for most of my professional life. There are safety precautions that we learned and never violated due to strict oversight. However, many involved good safety theory. ALWAYS use only water directly in the tank (surfactants can be added, but don't leave the in it). If other solvents are needed, put them in a separate container immersed in the bath. If using any hazardous solvents, the cleaner should be operated in a properly vented fume hood. Be aware of the capabilities, hazards, and limits of your solvents. For instance, methanol is very good at removing water, but absorbs water from the atmosphere if left open, is flammable, and can be absorbed through the skin poisoning you. Happily, most rubber, vinyl, and nitrile gloves are good barriers. But I have never found it to be a good cleaning agent. High-purity (>90%) isopropyl alcohol is an excellent solvent, is much less hydroscopic, but is of course very flammable. It will dry out the skin and should be used in well-ventilated areas. There are a few contaminants that I use acetone for, but primarily in a closed container for soaking. Most carb cleaning can be done with hot water and mild surfactant (detergent) in the cleaner Just don't leave aluminum/cast etc. parts in it overnight.
"Love 'em all.... Let GOD sort 'em out!"

IR8D8R

Sometimes you need a non-polar solvent. I've used charcoal lighter, paint thinner, and lamp oil to clean vintage camera parts and carburetors. Lamp oil stinks the least on your hands and rags. I don't think I'd risk aromatic hydrocarbons. No gasoline or naptha...

It doesn't run unattended with methanol and I don't leave it running long. Only takes a few minutes to dissolve flux.

Best to suspend parts off the bottom. Placing stuff in the tank directly can damage the emitters. They are glassy silicon piezoelectric wafers and break easily. Don't let them run dry or the emitters can shatter.

IR8D8R

Kawtriplefreak

I have yet to try mine out. I am going to use a big pickle jar with my degreaser in it with the parts to be cleaned inside of the jar. My question is: Do I have to leave the wire mesh basket with the rubber feet on the bottom in there if I am floating my jar on the water in the tub? My 1st inclination would be no, but I don't want to hurt the machine.

kpke

No. You can float your jars. I do this in mine.

BTW, the problem with buying a large ultrasonic cleaner is the amount of water required to fill it. And then you have to heat that much more water. Something to think about. Bigger is better if you have big parts to put in the cleaner but if you don't IMO smaller is better.

I will fill mine with hot water from the bathtub faucet using a bucket.
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Kawtriplefreak