Dogster chambers interference question

[rdsarefun]

Just received my Dogster chambers, quality looks good but left side hits the kickstand spring boss, which prevents the head and rear attachment points from fully engaging.  I am reluctant to cut this off as I want to keep the bike as original as I can if I sell it someday and someone returns to stock.  The way I look at it is I could do a kickstand relocation kit and cut this boss off(not preferred), or dimple the brand new set, but have reluctance with this as I just spent ~675$ for this.  Does anyone have any previous experience with dimpling SS headers, assuming I could use my acetylene torch and get hot, use a round bar and strike with a deadblow.  Just fishing for some suggestions before pulling the trigger.

[m in sc]

yup. dent the chamber. your method should work fine. just make sure the opposing side is on something soft.

[LMS]

I have these, and he dented them for me. I used the relocation kit (modified that some as well), bent the he|| out of the kickstand over and over and added a half inch aluminum block to bottom of kick stand matching it perfectly to the original part of the stand that will lay upon the ground. It still leans more than stock, but what the he||. Moved spring to front of kick stand, cut the tab off that the spring attached to and moved it to front side of kick stand. I could have welded another piece to the stand in order to use my foot to move the kickstand down but didn't. I just use my hand/fingers to do that. It was a ton of work to get it so the kick basically sits almost flush with the frame, doesn't hit the pipes or rearsets. The rearsets also needed finagling in order to work for me. I shimmed the pipes inward too, this then made it so pipes just hit the center stand tabs, out came the mini sledge, fixed.

[irk_miller]

Mark the circle around the spring stem and shape it with the ball on a ball peen hammer. Doesn't look like it needs a crazy amount of shaping, so work hardening won't be much of an issue.  You have to hit it harder than mild steel, but you can still focus on being accurate more than hard.  I doubt that inexpensive of chambers are super thick gauge stainless.

[IR8D8R]

 Back when I worked in a muffler shop a long time ago. I made myself dimpling tools using several different sized ball bearings. I welded the balls to solid Plymouth 383 pushrods with rubber fuel line over the rods for handles. Hold by the handle and smack with a hammer. Dimples look factory pressed. Ball bearings don't leave scratches like hammer blows. Heating cherry red before dimpling is a good idea, especially if the spot is visible. It makes the dimple more sharp and shapely and is less likely to dent the tubing. They are useful for a few things.

IR8D8R

[85RZwade]

[irk_miller]

Back when I worked in a muffler shop a long time ago. I made myself dimpling tools using several different sized ball bearings. I welded the balls to solid Plymouth 383 pushrods with rubber fuel line over the rods for handles. Hold by the handle and smack with a hammer. Dimples look factory pressed. Ball bearings don't leave scratches like hammer blows. Heating cherry red before dimpling is a good idea, especially if the spot is visible. It makes the dimple more sharp and shapely and is less likely to dent the tubing. They are useful for a few things.

IR8D8R

This makes sense.  Not sure I was getting it before.

[kramdua]

use 2 hammers. 0ne you would lay the ball of the hammer where you want the dimple and hit it with the other hammer to make the indentation. saves from having to hit it a couple times and make marks. I hope this makes sense.

[85RZwade]

Also 

[m in sc]

i've used both those methods more or less in the past. tbh, a small peice of leather on the pipe and then hit it with a hammer ball end is good as well.