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1985 Yamaha RZ350 Red/White/Blue Kenny Roberts Edition

Started by skyline, January 31, 2024, 03:45:37 PM

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skyline

Some more updates, seems to be faster than expected for me but no complains  :metal:

Got the motor back and into the frame, hooked up the battery although no current yet so I might have to fiddle around. Also got the carbs back from Ron, he did a great job on them.

dgorms

rz,r5,ds7,srx,fzr400rr,vfr,cl77,s90, F-7,CL 77, CA-77,ad infinitum


skyline

Hit a snag, turning on the ignition gives NO indication of any current whatsoever (no servo motor click, horn, blinkers, etc.). I also did charge the battery using trickle charger. I see two wires that I seem to not have any idea:-

1. Audio Pilot Assembly (part # 48H-83390-20-00) - This is ONLY required for stock exhaust with CAT, I saw Ken's videos and look like he skipped them too. Reference minute mark 3:30 - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QGdgqExZpQ0
Am I getting it right?

2. This black terminal ring coming from the main harness doesn't seem to makes sense on where goes. Can someone help, please?


85RZwade

#35


:whistle: mine is, uh, less clean
I post waayyy too much

skyline


Evans Ward

Check your fuse box connections. If you still have the factory original fuse box, they are notorious for flaking out. In that case, wire in a new repop one or convert to a blade type box.
1984 Yamaha RZ350
1976 Suzuki GT750
1972 Kawasaki H2 750 Mach IV

kpke

Make damn sure that ring lug for ground has an excellent connection.






And what Evans said. All of mine (except the original 83) get this treatment



https://www.youtube.com/c/KensGarage1
Hord of RZ350's
RZV500 R6 Suspension and Bodywork
R1 LE #158

skyline

Thanks 85RZwade, Ken and Evans! Appreciate all the responses.

I tried what Ken has shown for ground connection. Charged the battery to it's fullest and checked on fuses. Still the same.  :bang:

So, next thing I'm gonna do is follow Evans idea and ordered a Hella Fuse box with 6 circuit capacity (#H84960091). The more impatient I get ..... the more elusive it is.

teazer

Before you modify more circuits, go back to basics.  Check the connector to the key switch and see if you have power to the switch and then see if you have power coming out of the switch to the various circuits.  And check the connectors at that huge assed battery stuffed in there. 

One trick I learned to check battery condition is to fit a battery tender pigtail for charging and just plug in a battery tender voltage tester. You can quickly wee battery voltage  as you turn on different circuits and when it's running you can see voltage as it charges.


skyline

Quote from: teazer on February 25, 2024, 09:48:47 AMBefore you modify more circuits, go back to basics.  Check the connector to the key switch and see if you have power to the switch and then see if you have power coming out of the switch to the various circuits.  And check the connectors at that huge assed battery stuffed in there. 

One trick I learned to check battery condition is to fit a battery tender pigtail for charging and just plug in a battery tender voltage tester. You can quickly wee battery voltage  as you turn on different circuits and when it's running you can see voltage as it charges.



Good point! I'll update on what I find out. Hopefully nothing crazy.

skyline

Okay, so few more updates from the weekend - Once again my good friend Brian came to the rescue.

Electrical issue fixed (well sorta). The culprit was the main connector that goes to ignition, it had 2 wires (Red-main & brown-ground?) cut up by previous owner. Once fixed, it does the YPVS valve check, lights, signals work. Still have elusive neutral light, rear brake light and horn to chase on.

While we were at it, changed from glass fuse to blade style as well.

Meanwhile, I also got the expansion chambers back on. Front brakes too. Throttle tube sticks so I have to get a new one (I tried 2 so far and they don't return back).

m in sc


skyline

I couldn't make much progress lately due to some snags - broke the drive chain riveting tool, throttle sticking after trying out 4 different tubes, neutral light doesn't seem to work (I did check the bulb and routing diagram).

I did end up getting a fix for the broken oil tank mount. Apparently this is a known issue with most of the restorations I ran across. SO instead of welding a mount point, I got these - https://www.ebay.com/itm/255735126653?itmmeta=01HVHGJ2CH4APZGCPC624ZFF1A&hash=item3b8b005a7d:g:Ve0AAOSwZ3BjKSWq


So I finally towed it over to a trusted mechanic who coincidentally had 2 of these back in the day. He was just as excited as I am so we'll see how it goes.