Lower fork bolt - how to remove?

[STLMike]

I'm in the process of rebuilding the forks on the RD350. I am stuck on getting this damn lower bolt out of both fork legs. It spins, but will not come out. I've tried it with the forks assembled with an impact to "shock" it loose but nothing. I've tried compressing the forks, no go.

Any tips/tricks are appreciated.

Edit: Meant to post this in Turning Wrenches

[DesmoDrew]

  What has worked for me is: using my air powered impact (same one I take lug nuts off with), I have the forks completely assembled, fork cap on the floor and applying pressure, and use the impact on a 'low' setting, start by Tightening the bolt a few 'hammers' of the impact wrench.  Then switch to 'loosen'.  And keep doing this process.  Tighten-loosen-tighten-loosen, etc.  That has always worked for me.  Have not tried this using a newer battery powered impact, but that may work as well.

[kpke]

Same as DesmoDrew although never had to tighten first. I cut off a 6mm (or???) (need the length) allen wrench, stick it in a socket, use adapters to get it to the 1/2" drive of the air impact gun, leave the springs and fork caps on, and out they come. Good luck.

[Brad-Man]

I used one of those universal sockets with a bunch of spring loaded pins that conform to the shape of whatever it needs to (mine is actually called a Gator Grip) on a couple of long extensions I have.  It was really low effort not having to compress...

[STLMike]

Thanks for the suggestions. I got one out by compressing the fork with a ratchet strap and using an impact foward and reverse, that works on one. Now I need a longer sacrificial Allen wrench to cut for the other side which I'll grab from work tomorrow.

[kpke]

    

[IR8D8R]

The fix involves a sacrifice to the tool Gods. 1 socket. Cut the sides off a 6-point 14mm socket so that only two opposing hex flats remain. The cutout can be done on a grinder or with a zip wheel. You only need to cut off about 3/8th of an inch (10mm) deep into the socket. If you cut off too much it weakens the tip so it may slip. I used a deep socket but I don't think it has to be. In fact, a standard socket might be more rigid. The top of the rod assembly has a "bolt-head shaped" protrusion with only two flats (shown by the blue arrow in the photo) You've notched the tool so that only those two flats are gripped by the socket. It can be reached with an extension. You only need to hold it from spinning. You won't be torquing with it. Most people use an impact to zap it in and out from the bottom.

$#!&. Now I am questioning my memory about whether it is a 14mm or a 15mm socket. Damn those dying brain cells! I tried to find this online but no luck. Somebody here will remember...

IR8D8R

[Brad-Man]

This is handy to have and what I was talking about about - no need to sacrifice a socket.

Universal Socket

[svgarage]

This is handy to have and what I was talking about about - no need to sacrifice a socket.

Universal Socket

That's pretty cool. That should do the job. When I did the job, I took an impression of the culprit with a ball of play-doh. If you happen to have a 12mm socket laying around, it'll only take a minute with an angle grinder and you're good to go! Stick that bad boy on the end of an extension- problem solved!

[STLMike]

Well shit. It appears that the 2 forks don't have the same guts. The brake side has something that looks to be above the piece that I can get a cut socket on. Not sure if visible in pic.

[STLMike]

Found the problem
Someone who has been in here before me and broke off the part. Do I fix it or send it?

Guess I'll look on ebay

[RattlecanResto]

Pretty sure I have a pile of spare damper parts including some rods. These can be hard to come by. I will have a look if you want

[STLMike]

Pretty sure I have a pile of spare damper parts including some rods. These can be hard to come by. I will have a look if you want

That would be great! Please let me know

[RattlecanResto]

25 shipped. Send me a pm if you want it

[RattlecanResto]

25 shipped send me a pm if you want it