Replace Brakes or Rebuild

Started by Longbow62, October 30, 2024, 05:56:47 PM

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Longbow62

I'm wondering if it's better to just buy replacement calipers and master cylinders vs. rebuild on a bike that is 46 years old, and has been sitting 30+ years. Also the stock calipers weigh a ton. Are the replacements lighter weight? Everything is there on the bike I bought but even though it looks to have been kept in the dry all that time the parts don't look great once you take them apart. 

m in sc

take apart and inspect. they are easy to rebuild.. you'd be amazed how well they hold up. new seals and pistons prob fine.

Longbow62

Thanks, I guess I'll take them apart and take a look. I'm thinking pretty hard about going and buying an ultrasonic cleaner anyway. 

RustyRD

One vote for ultrasonic cleaner, I have two and wish I had bought them earlier.

Longbow62

The ultrasonic cleaner got one of my carb slides unstuck after about 2 hours with diluted super heated simple green. Caliper halves stayed in 2.5 hours. The pucks are still stuck. I've tapped with a hammer. They are soaking in WD-40 now. Any tips to get stuck pucks out? 

RattlecanResto

Quote from: Longbow62 on November 03, 2024, 09:31:32 PMThe ultrasonic cleaner got one of my carb slides unstuck after about 2 hours with diluted super heated simple green. Caliper halves stayed in 2.5 hours. The pucks are still stuck. I've tapped with a hammer. They are soaking in WD-40 now. Any tips to get stuck pucks out? 
I pump them out with grease. You can also use air pressure but need to be careful. You likely won't get them out any other way. Search YouTube prob some videos on there.

m in sc

i use air. 90-100 psi shoot the puck into a 5 gallon bucket filled with rags. a bit of heat doesnt hurt either.

kpke

Quote from: Longbow62 on November 03, 2024, 09:31:32 PMThe ultrasonic cleaner got one of my carb slides unstuck after about 2 hours with diluted super heated simple green. Caliper halves stayed in 2.5 hours. The pucks are still stuck. I've tapped with a hammer. They are soaking in WD-40 now. Any tips to get stuck pucks out? 

Try this

https://www.youtube.com/c/KensGarage1
Hord of RZ350's
RZV500 R6 Suspension and Bodywork
R1 LE #158

SoCal250

+1 for Ken's technique.
I had some really stuck pistons on my TZR that wouldn't come out after ultrasonic cleaning and trying to push the pistons out with compressed air. I used Ken's method above, but I also heated the calipers in my gas BBQ on low then melted ice cubes inside the piston cup before trying to extract. Worked great :thumbs:
75 Yamaha RD125B   75 Yamaha RD125B (project)
75 Yamaha RD250B   75 Yamaha RD200B (project)
73 Yamaha RD350     77 Yamaha RD400D   79 Yamaha RD400F  
91 Yamaha TZR250R  89 Yamaha FZR400   05 Yamaha FZ6   
05 Yamaha XT225TC  82 Honda MB5  02 Aprilia RS250 Cup (sold)

Longbow62

My calipers and internals are like in horrible shape. Really rusty and corroded compared to the ones in the video, which by the way look new compared to mine. I will try several things, but I doubt the video method will work. Thanks for the suggestions.   

pdxjim

I gave up on my LC calipers and replaced them with ones off an R1/R6

If you're not trying to keep it all original, this is a win win.
Wasting time on 2T forums since the dawn of the internet. '89 TDR250, '13 300xcw, '19 690smcr, '56 Porsche 356A

Dvsrd

#11
Quote from: Longbow62 on November 04, 2024, 11:40:59 AMMy calipers and internals are like in horrible shape. Really rusty and corroded compared to the ones in the video, which by the way look new compared to mine. I will try several things, but I doubt the video method will work. Thanks for the suggestions.   
The alloy reproduction calipers Economy Cycle sold me work great! They look just like the stock RD350/400 calipers (not Daytona!), and are significantly lighter than the original iron/ steel calipers.
Combined with a smaller bore master cylinder (12-13 mm) and a modern teflon lined hose will give you all the brake you need.

axldk6

I haven't even gotten to that part of my build, ( bought bike in 08/24).still sorting out engine. but some time in it life the M/C was replaced ( not original) and the caliper looks like junk and the brake line goes straight from M/C to caliper. I am going to do a all new swap , but also would like to upgrade to better component's?
been wrenching for many years, still need help some times
1974 RD 350A ( full project bike)
2002 Kawasaki  ZRX 1200R  ( 99% complete)

m in sc

I mean, the stock caliper 'if' its in good shape works great. if not worth saving, the stock replacements with a slightly smaller master as stated is a great route, OR, change over to an r6/r1 type caliper with an adapter and an fz rotor. more brake than you'll ever need. (theres info int he tech section on this)


teazer

Quote from: Dvsrd on November 15, 2024, 10:23:23 AM
Quote from: Longbow62 on November 04, 2024, 11:40:59 AMMy calipers and internals are like in horrible shape. Really rusty and corroded compared to the ones in the video, which by the way look new compared to mine. I will try several things, but I doubt the video method will work. Thanks for the suggestions.   
The alloy reproduction calipers Economy Cycle sold me work great! They look just like the stock RD350/400 calipers (not Daytona!), and are significantly lighter than the original iron/ steel calipers.
Combined with a smaller bore master cylinder (12-13 mm) and a modern teflon lined hose will give you all the brake you need.
Those calipers are so much lighter and the pistons can be replaced with suitable alloy pistons too.  But there is a slight difference in diameter, so aftermarket pistons may have to be machined to fit. I use that set up on an RD400 drag bike.  Looks stock but saves a bunch of weight.