Clutch not working after reassembly

[ampzip]

On my 1972 DS7, I've finished replacing both of my crank seals, and reassembled everything.

I put it all back together and the clutch wasn't engaging. I realized after that the ball on the clutch side had pushed out into the oil bucket, so was able to obtain and I reinstalled it.

For some reason it's still not engaging though. I can't really figure out what else could be causing it as I didn't adjust the clutch cable, and the lock nut / adjusting screw to adjust the clutch is completely rusted together solid.

So I know which side I'm having an issue with, does anyone know how far the pushrod is supposed to extend on the clutch cable side? Mine is at 1 1/8"

[1976RD400C]

If you took the clutch springs and pressure plate off that pressure plate has to be assembled in the right position to drop in and hit the fiber plates. That would make that 1 1/8" longer.
Edit: those older bikes used a different pressure plate so that can't be assembled wrong.  Is the ball in the worm gear actuator?

[Simoniz]

Following this thread.

I have the same problem on a 1975 Kwak here. The clutch was working normally when I got it. I removed the counter sprocket cover to fit a new front drive sprocket and cleaned 50 years of crusty oil, dirt and grass off the clutch mechanism while I was at it. Now the clutch barely engages, however I set up the cable and adjuster, and the worm drive is greased and seated in the holder, then adjusted for free play, per the shop manual. Puzzled that something so simple is defeating me. 

[ampzip]

If you took the clutch springs and pressure plate off that pressure plate has to be assembled in the right position to drop in and hit the fiber plates. That would make that 1 1/8" longer.
Edit: those older bikes used a different pressure plate so that can't be assembled wrong.  Is the ball in the worm gear actuator?

I'm not sure how the pressure plate could be installed incorrectly. The pressure plate and clutch boss all look perfectly symmetrical. Do you know how to tell?


Yes I've confirmed the ball is still in the worm gear.

[m in sc]

on a ds7, its not toothed like the later ones so it should go on regardless. however, somethings def a amiss. will it engage if the LH sidecover is removed?

[ampzip]

on a ds7, its not toothed like the later ones so it should go on regardless. however, somethings def a amiss. will it engage if the LH sidecover is removed?

Do you mean by pushing on the rod with my hand? I briefly tried that but didn't feel it give at all, but I assumed that was just normal because the worm gear pushes exponentially harder on the rod than I can by hand.

[rodneya]

Did you remove the entire clutch basket during the work?

[ampzip]

Did you remove the entire clutch basket during the work?

Yes

[ampzip]

Welp, solved that problem and introduced another one. Upon further inspection I noticed the last steel clutch plate must have slipped slightly as I was putting the pressure plate on, basically making it stuck between the pressure plate and clutch boss or something, making the clutch in a continuously open position, not able to spring closed.

I seated the clutch plate properly, put the pressure plate back on, put the cable side cover on and the clutch felt exactly like it did before I took everything apart, I thought it was working properly.

I noticed that with clutch in (I could see the pressure plate push out), it wouldn't feel like it would fully disengage the transmission, it would still turn over the motor. I tried spinning the wheel a few rotations, and then it WOULD disengage and was like the clutch was doing it's job. If I let go of the clutch, then engage again, same thing, it's like it's in gear for a few wheel rotations, then it finds neutral.

I thought maybe it's because there's no fluid (I still had the case off at this point), so put everything back together, and of course, it's the same thing...

Edit: Just to follow up, I ended up driving it for a bit and it's totally fine now 

On to other issues...