I have modified and fitted a Vape Powerdynamo to my project
as per the brilliant thread by SUPERTUNE's directions
http://www.2strokeworld.net/forum/index.php?topic=855.0 (http://www.2strokeworld.net/forum/index.php?topic=855.0)
I'm still tinkering away with the electrics and very slowly making progress
on getting things working as in lights and indicators.
I dont have the engine fully built but wanted up to now to get the lights
sorted.
regarding the relay on the vape system I dont know how to fully wire it,
I connected it to the Black/red wire from the kill switch that would
have fed the two original coils but im not hearing a "click" when the key
is turned to position I
does anyone know how the Black wire from the relay should be connected?
or if that stray Black/Red wire from the kill switch should be wired?
This is how I wired in my kill switch on my 350
I followed the same diagram for my HPI ignition. Your power (black cable label SW) should spliced the power source of the coils Red and White on the RD400 and Red and Black on RD350. I used one of those quick wire splicer to do this. (https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61kAFtiLnBL._AC_SX522_.jpg)
Quoc! You don't have a soldering iron? ;D
oh man. scotch locks. :bang:
They're from the devil :devil:
Hey now everyone! lol Don't yuck my yum. If I end up stranded somewhere because of this, I will let y'all know about my struggles :whistle:
I am the worst when it comes to wiring, I'll use wiring nuts to test something out and be like I'll come back and clean things up and never do it. The same goes for the relay wiring, I did. :hey:
The herpes of the electrical world. Poor connection, damaged insulation, and cut strands (resulting in reduced current to your loads). Bad enough when first produced by Scotch, but now cheap copies make them very bad. Vetter sent them with their GoldWing fairings, and the GL1000s that I've rescued have each had a headlight bucket full. Removing them I usually find about half of the copper severed. If just to a signal I might just heal the insulation wound with liquid electrical tape. Otherwise it requires the soldering iron to come out for a proper splice.
:righteous: twisted my arm, i'll fix it today. :righteous:
Quote from: quocle603 on August 28, 2020, 06:13:37 AM
If I end up stranded somewhere because of this, I will let y'all know about my struggles :whistle:
Take it from me, I *did* get stranded by a Scotch connector. It's so easy to avoid.
(https://i.ibb.co/C0p5pWt/C77-C6-F93-F89-A-4053-B966-35-EE035-E4010.jpg)
Move to bullet or solder connection......
Thought I was the only one.
bit me once before as well. I keep a few in the toolbags as an emergency fix but otherwise, nope.
While this thread is up and instead of starting a new one, can someone confirm that the yellow wire going into the coil would be the correct wire to use as a signal for an electronic tach?
I was planning on using solder for this connection but after reading this thread is seems like a scotch connector would be a better choice. :dawg:
yes, from the trigger.
yellow wire for sure
use a yellow scotch lock or wire nut. :nanana:
;D
:whatever: lol
Quote from: rodneya on August 26, 2020, 10:28:33 AM
This is how I wired in my kill switch on my 350
Thanks redneya, im not sure this will work for me, i have 2 wires from
the kill switch, red/yellow to main switch and the red/black.
Quote from: quocle603 on August 27, 2020, 08:09:39 PM
I followed the same diagram for my HPI ignition. Your power (black cable label SW) should spliced the power source of the coils Red and White on the RD400 and Red and Black on RD350. I used one of those quick wire splicer to do this.
thanks for the info quocle603, i think part of my problem is that i dont know
where the red/black wire from the kill switch should go now that the stock
coils are not there. I have connected the black from the relay yo the red/black
but no "click" when ignition on.
Red and yellow from the kill switch is connected to switched power from the ignition
this is what feeds power to the red black to the relay.
If the red yellow is not connected you wont have power to the relay.
Thanks again, did some tricking around with the electrics,
the relay is now clicking on and off with the kill switch....
and also when the brake is applied when on switch position II :umm: