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Surging or jerking on deceleration with closed throttle is caused bu a lean air screw setting or lean pilot jet.

Thaks
Yes if i turn the aor screw 1turn or replace pilot with 27.5 the issue is reduced, or if i use thicker head gasket and reduce the compression then the jerking goes away but when i dont get the bottom end punch :(


So upjetting pilot can be one of the option?

Hello Experts ,

Been long time ,

Am working on increasing compression with Points ignition.

With reduced squish , now my static compression is 140

Pilot 25 Mains 140 , 1.5 Turn Air , needle clip in 3rd notch ,stock air filter , stock exhausts

Bike pulls really nice and strong in low rpms , but on closed throttle post 3000 rpm I am getting severe knocking n jerks till the rom comes down to 2000 or so

I feel with the high compression on closed throttle passt 3k the dynamic compression is high and some how shes struggling to keep up with it with slides down at idle position.

Question ..
Is this normal and how to address it without affecting the low rpm torque am gettig?
Is this something related to Air leak from Carb cables ? Or Top ? (Did engine leak test and its super tight )

Is this related to ignition ? I tried static CDI but issue persists.

Cheers,
PRAVIN

Thanks a lot guys !

Hello Experts ,

I have one question , in rd350 how far from exhaust port gasket we can ideally install EGT sensor ?

Any information on the distance and specs will be helpful

Cheers
Pravin

get a hotter set of coils.

Hey , how can I decide on hotter coil ? Any specific values ? We have 4 ohm primary and 13k secondary coils in India came with bike

Hi all ,

Anybody has tried using ignition booster/amplifier for increasing spark density ?

Am going to increase the compression of my bike keeping the points ignition which kind of doesn't work well on high compression engine and I don't want to go CDI route .

Something like this ?

https://ebay.us/m/2tTGBw

Please suggest.

Cheers
Pravin

This information is very helpful , do you mind extending the source ? I mean is it from any top shot Yamaha specification sheets ? Or any manual ? At least it's not there in service manuals :)
I've added the source info to the original post

I've added the source info to the original post

Really appreciate SoCal,great Help gentleman !

This information is very helpful , do you mind extending the source ? I mean is it from any top shot Yamaha specification sheets ? Or any manual ? At least it's not there in service manuals :)

Cheers
Pravin

Thanks a lot SoCal

Cheers
Pravin

you looking for a stock dyno run?
[/quote

Ideally stock duno tub if anybody has done that also will do

Hi SC ,

Yes the factory power curve provided by Yamaha .. Stock engine I lost it some how ..


Cheers,
Pravin

Hi All,

Doing some research, cant find the RD350 AC Power curve , does anybody has or can share please ?

Regards,
Pravin Dalvi

it will. imho it would be cheaper to retrofit a modern motocross rear hub but only if you had access to a good fabricator or could do it yourself, if you were going disc rear. I can dobthat kind of work and it literally wasn't worth my time when I did it, and went w the rd hub. I've never wanted to add a disc since to projects after it  really was no functional benefit, to me. 0.02

makes Sense SC , I don't fancy rear disc , Just wanted to solve the issue once for all but looking at the work and expenses better I be on Drums  : )

Cheers,
Pravin

Brake shoes every 5k run

That's a lot of brake shoe wear! Are you sure you're not resting your foot on the pedal while cruising?

Due to the worne out drum the balw shoes also wear out fast and before bottoming out brakes stop working cas the drm is out

I think from all the advises above sourcing a good rear drum will solve my problem

very expensive. I've done it, not worth it aside from looks. get a fresh drum hub and ride the rear brake less?

Thanks SC for the quick advise ;) I'll stay away from this thought for now and look for a good condition rear hub ..

Cheers
Pravin