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This information is very helpful , do you mind extending the source ? I mean is it from any top shot Yamaha specification sheets ? Or any manual ? At least it's not there in service manuals :)
I've added the source info to the original post

I've added the source info to the original post

Really appreciate SoCal,great Help gentleman !

This information is very helpful , do you mind extending the source ? I mean is it from any top shot Yamaha specification sheets ? Or any manual ? At least it's not there in service manuals :)

Cheers
Pravin

Thanks a lot SoCal

Cheers
Pravin

you looking for a stock dyno run?
[/quote

Ideally stock duno tub if anybody has done that also will do

Hi SC ,

Yes the factory power curve provided by Yamaha .. Stock engine I lost it some how ..


Cheers,
Pravin

Hi All,

Doing some research, cant find the RD350 AC Power curve , does anybody has or can share please ?

Regards,
Pravin Dalvi

it will. imho it would be cheaper to retrofit a modern motocross rear hub but only if you had access to a good fabricator or could do it yourself, if you were going disc rear. I can dobthat kind of work and it literally wasn't worth my time when I did it, and went w the rd hub. I've never wanted to add a disc since to projects after it  really was no functional benefit, to me. 0.02

makes Sense SC , I don't fancy rear disc , Just wanted to solve the issue once for all but looking at the work and expenses better I be on Drums  : )

Cheers,
Pravin

Brake shoes every 5k run

That's a lot of brake shoe wear! Are you sure you're not resting your foot on the pedal while cruising?

Due to the worne out drum the balw shoes also wear out fast and before bottoming out brakes stop working cas the drm is out

I think from all the advises above sourcing a good rear drum will solve my problem

very expensive. I've done it, not worth it aside from looks. get a fresh drum hub and ride the rear brake less?

Thanks SC for the quick advise ;) I'll stay away from this thought for now and look for a good condition rear hub ..

Cheers
Pravin

Hello Experts ,

I am struggling on Rear brake due to worn out Rear wheel Hub and cost of importing quality Brake shoes every 5k run as she's my daily ride...

I was thinking of converting in to rear disc but keeping the Spoked wheels due to the look of it  : )

Is there any option of doing this ? what parts I need like Rear Disc Hub spoked one , caliper , rotor, Mounting etc and what bike spares will be compatible ?

Seeking advise here  : )

Cheers ,
Pravin Dalvi

Ran the micrometer on the new cylinders and pistons.
Cylinders were within .0005" of taper and each other. Pistons were exactly the same size. Ring end gap was .009" and 3 of them and .000 on 1 of them. Piston clearance is about .003". Not really any port chamfering done. This is very odd, look at how the small transfer port is lower than the larger one. It's so low it is not open all the way when piston is at BDC. The larger tranfer is at the right stock height but the little ones are too low. The exhaust port seems a bit small, and the top is 31.5mm down, stock is 29.5mm. The wall thickness of the sleeve that sticks out the bottom is 2.75mm, an oem cylinder is 4.50mm. I think you would have trouble if you installed these without checking and adjusting a few things.







I have got the exact set in India , Indian HT models were having 31mm Exhaust and 46~47mm Transfer and Yes the Aux Transfer port opens at 48 : ( same like this kit ...

I spend 2 days with Pencil files and 300 400 grit papers and  did the chamfer and the ports came out smooth ...I used DYKE ART STD Pistons .

Bike ran reasonably well but am planning to match up the aux port to 46 and see how she performs when I get some time .

USA 29.5 Kits also have this xfer port mismatch issue ?

Cheers,
Pravin

the indicator needs to be an incandescent bulb. ( if it's just 1) one leg goes to the left hot ts wire, the other goes to the rh hotvwire. hot wire is the 12v feed to the turn signal. dark bn & dk green. my tzr is the same fyi. it doesn't have a ground, persay. 4th bulb up from bottom, correct? green and bn wires

Yes we do the same way in India as well , the Indicator picks ground from one leg and power from opp depending up on where you flip the indicator switch

65 is very low , if the bike is running well then surely the gauge is not accurate , 120 125 is the start on stock and 90 is the bottom line I guess..

Get the readings with some other gauge and check !

Cheers,
Pravin

AM curious to know the experience here ,

Recently I has rebuilt my top end//

AM running on 150 PSI Engine with skimmed Heads I guess (as I borrowed them and don't have mechanism to confirm the squish immediately ) which is more than stock 125 PSI ?
My Points set up was not able to run properly and the bike use to do knockings on closed throttle..

What is the experience here guys , anybody running high compression engine on points ?

Cheers,
Pravin

Wow !! That's a great collection : ) TZR  Too  ; )