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It's normal for a Moto Carrera or other aftermarket arm to have a little extra width between the axle plates.
Your rear sets and pipes are Moto Carrera too. Pipes are Millennium GP model.

Check the coil resistance after it warms up.

Nope, already ruled that out with tests

changed wires. caps. same thing

swapped wires left to right. SAME THING, stays on RH cyl. this is what i have a hard time understanding.

https://www.treatland.tv/SearchResults.asp?Search=Hpi+rd350+

to follow up w one other option.  id consider an hpi cdi. I run one of these as well. treatland has sales and they get reasonable.

Tomorrow is your last day to take advantage of the Treatland 20% off sale. They don't have the standard HPI in stock, but they have the dual-curve model.
https://www.2strokeworld.net/forum/index.php?topic=7368.msg62991#msg62991

It's not often you see a winged car at a local show. This year there were two Superbirds!


Australian Falcon XA GT351 in Mad Max style


Seal Beach PD has their own Saleen.


Quite a few other cool cars I didn't get a chance to shoot. There were 3 Grand Nationals and 2 GN-Xs parked together, which was pretty impressive.

Last Saturday I rode the POS to Seal Beach for their 26th Annual Classic Car Show that's held on Main Street. This years show was another sell out for car display and the crowd was pretty big. With so many people it gets a little tough to see some of the cars and even harder to get photos. But here are a few of the shots I took...





This Caddy Series 62 was really well done and had a 650HP supercharged CTS-V under the hood.




This panel van was really unusual. I noticed it had many features that resembled a Volkswagen Type 2, then I figured out why. It's a Ford Taurus Tourist van made in W. Germany


This Ultima GTR caught my eye. Powered by a modified LS7. Radared at 202 MPH at the Nevada Open Road Challenge a few years back.

LexPaul, are you original owner of that bike, or have detailed history on it? If I'm not mistaken that is the correct color bodywork for 1974, but they came with disc brake front end. Might want to check the VIN matches for 1974. Could be a 1973 bike with 1974 bodywork, or pre disc brake front end on the 1974 there. Lots of these things are compatible for swaps.

All years of the RD350 came with front disc.
Definitely a '74 RD350A with the correct body parts. The VIN listed in the FB ad is for a '74 350. Someone swapped that front end.

Thank you for the details about head gaskets.  I'll measure the one piece head gasket I have here and see how it compares.

If you have a US Daytona 1-piece (2V0-11181-00) it should be 0.055"
A Canadian 1-piece for a '79 or '80 model (3J7-11181-01) is 0.020" (Same part used on the 3M4 in Australia)
And for reference, the standard 1A1 RD400 2-piece gaskets (1A1-11181-00) are 0.020"

And a correction to my previous post: The 2R9 is a 2-piece head.

Since your altitude increased by just over 4000ft you're going to need to rejet for the thinner air.
Decrease the main jet size by 1 or 2 steps.
Assuming you've got a 140 main in there now you'll probably need a 130 or 135, and you're going to need to tweak the airscrews as well.  See how 1 step in size works and if it's still rich go another step.

Removing the carbs from a 350 is pretty easy.
-Disconnect the fuel lines and oil lines.
-Remove the Y-boot from the carbs & airbox.
-Loosen the manifold clamps and pull each carb out. As soon as the carb is free you can unscrew the carb top and carefully set it to the side so the needles do not get damaged.
On the bench, remove the carb bowl and then replace the main jet.
To reinstall, reverse the process. Before putting the Y-boot back on make sure the carbs are in sync. You can use a mirror, your fingers, or pieces of zip tie inserted into the throats to be sure they're opening together.

The main jets you need are Mikuni large hex 4/042. Be sure to only buy genuine and buy from a reputable dealer.

The attached should help dial it in. Good luck.

That DG swingarm is a nice one and it's one of the more rare versions with the brake stay tab on top and on the bottom of the arm. Designed to work with all years of the RD400.

The 2V0 head is not a bad head performance-wise, but it's designed to work with a 0.055" head gasket. A standard RD400 gasket is 0.020. Any vintage head will perform better by taking advantage of today's technology advancements with machining to correct squish and optimize for today's fuel. (This is especially true with the DG heads.)
One disadvantage of the 2V0 (and the 3J7, 2R9, 3M4) head is that you have to remove the entire head to work on either side of the engine. For this reason they're sometimes cut in half between the chambers because it makes maintenance and machining easier.

Interested in all black mirrors like those on your MB5, Russ. Needing some for the RZ350 that are in newer condition.
Assuming they are slightly convex and threads are probably compatible, where did you get those?

Steve, the MB5 mirrors are original Honda. They're still available. Same part works on both L and R.
Honda 88110-195-000

EDIT: I should add that if you plan to use them on a Yamaha you'll need an adapter for the right side because Yamaha uses left hand threads on that side. You can get an adapter from Economy.

I found these Continental Contistreet tires come in all the RD sizes and are very reasonable, about $70-$80

They don't have a front tire our size...

...or a rear.
Correct sizes for the RD125 and RD200 though

Since today was Earth Day, it was time for my Annual Two-Stroke Ride



Like last year, I decided it was going to be a doubleheader


The RD125 was first up. Had to do a quick errand first on the little workhorse.


Next I took out the MB5 for a ride along the coast. The wind today was blowing like crazy, so although it was sunny it really wasn't ideal motorcycle weather (especially on a 50).
Quick stop in Seal Beach for a photo near the pier.


 

Rossi with his classic NacNac wheelie -

A more appropriate pic on a two-stroke

The Go Show