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Thanks everyone. At 67 years old, I find the seat to be a little less than comfortable. LOL I'm also installing setback handlebar risers to make it easier on my arms, wrists, and back. I haven't had it over 120MPH, yet. What a rush!

So, my son, David Baldwin, will be doing some experimenting with adding UFOs and, X-Wings to the stock 28mm carbs on his RD350. He'll be making comparisons on the Dyno for documented results before and, after installing each new component. The only thing that is not stock are the expansion chambers and stator/CDI from Chuck. As I understand it, the carbs will be adjusted for proper (max) EGT.

I still have the '84 RZ350 for fun. Now I have a 2013 Aprilia V4 Tuono APRC, for even more fun! This thing never stops pulling, and pulling hard!

Suppliers have been out of stock in all business sectors as a result of the global shutdown. It is going to take some time for for manufacturing to catch up with demand and resellers to build their inventories again. Good luck!

I have heard that RZs Unlimited rebuilds tacos and speedos. I replaced my RZ350 instruments with Koso electronics.

To see how it mounts, scroll up and double click on the photo of the fan on the black and yellow foam mat. The "zip mounts" go through the fins and through the mounting bracket holes in the fan. It's very simple really. The fan just fits between the frame tubes.

Thanks Mark (MinSC). I appreciate the helpful advice that you have provided for my RZ projects!

I carefully put the radiator in place with the fan loose, and marked the fan's bolt holes on the radiator with a sharpie. I then installed the fan on the radiator with the Derale fastening system, using extra foam spacers so that the blades do not hit the radiator. I then put everything back on the bike and carefully tightened the fasteners until it was very snug in the correct location. I used an inline waterproof connector for the 12VDC power.

The RZs run a little hot to begin with, especially with the modest modifications that have been done. And, I live in Arizona were it can be like riding into a blast furnace in the summertime. Last October, I had a bad thermostat cause a heat seizure. Having just gotten it back together, I don't want to take any chances with the new top end.

My 1984 RZ350 has a Koso DB-03R multimeter (tach/speedo, etc.), and a R6 radiator on it.

The cooling system was flushed, and changed from glycol and water to Engine Ice.

A R6 fan was installed on the radiator along with a thermal sensor w/switch to turn it on at about 200 degrees Fahrenheit. The sensor is too big to install inside of the radiator hoses per the instructions so, I tie-wrapped the sensor to the top of the radiator, having not figured out a better mounting method, yet. The switch is mounted under the left side of the tank, on top of an existing plastic tray, to the rear of the coil. The contacts will open to turn the fan off once the temperature drops by 15 degrees F.
I wired it directly to the battery using a 15amp inline fuse, to the thermal switch, and then to the fan so it will run with the ignition off.

A Koso iGear thermometer and engine head temp sensor was installed for added safety and, because it looks cool. (The DB-03R only has one input for monitoring temperature.)

R6 fan $32 eBay
Engine Ice $22 Cycle Gear
Derale 13001 - fan mounting kit $6.50
Derale 16769 - temp switch $35 Amazon
Koso BA067R12 - iGear Thermometer, Fahrenheit, Red $44
Koso K1001R14 - 14mm engine head temp sensor $26 Amazon
Koso BG022B01 - 22mm water temp sensor - $26 Amazon

I recently had a similar problem and the ground was bad on the turn signal. The light would light up but, not flash. The black wire showed resistance instead of zero ohms ground. It was a faulty bullet connector in the headlight housing. All I had to do was pull it apart and clean it, and pinch the connector a wee bit.
Good luck!

I recently had a similar problem and the ground was bad on the turn signal. The light would light up but, not flash. The black wire showed resistance instead of zero ohms ground. It was a faulty bullet connector in the headlight housing. All I had to do was pull it apart and clean it, and pinch the connector a wee bit.
Good luck!

Venhill

As I recall you only need one magnet, more to improve accuracy. I believe that they do have to be evenly spaced if you use more than one.

Update: I tried several methods of attaching the passive speed sensor to the lower fork tube and there is no way short of Epoxying it in place that works. I abandoned the idea and ordered the Koso GPS adapter. Amazon had the best price, sold by MXSouth in Florida.