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She Fired up!

Started by LMS, June 24, 2023, 11:50:31 AM

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LMS

I can't tell you how stoked I am. But we have some issues.
First, some knucklehead installed the rear sets/pegs (me) in such a way that I can barely kick it. So, I used my arm, fired in 4 pushes.
Main issue, tach was all over the place for a bit which is weird since it's well, mechanical and I did not have this issue before I tore into it. Once I shut it off tach needle stayed at 2000.It finally settled down, some, not sure if it happens again, guessing yes. I can tap the glass and it will go to zero, so I'm not even sure I can trust the readings. I took it apart months ago and cleaned the glass, i guess it could be that????
I cannot get it to idle under 2200, that is if the tach is correct. Unscrewed idle screws so they do not touch slides at all, it decreased, but it was at 2400 before. Is this a slide issue, do I need to try and adjust slides down using cable if possible. Or should I hold off until I figure out tach? By the way, any idea what i should do about tach?

By the way, the pipes sound great, so much better than those frickn power pipes. And, compared to that blendzall, it barely smokes. That blendzall smoked out my garage to all hell and back.
Thanks all.
75 RD350 bought 12/22. First motorcycle I have ever owned.

SoCal250

Make sure the tach cable is lubed. I'm sure you've already done that.
Also make sure it's properly seating into the gauge drive. If the gauge is sticking after the engine is off it sounds like the gauge may need to come apart again to be checked and possibly lubed, especially if you've been into it before. After the gauge is stuck at 2K does it drop back down to zero if you unscrew the cable from it or does it continue to hang?

Are the slides dropping all the way down into the bores? Can you hear a dull "thunk" when you open the throttle and then let it go. You should be able to see a very small gap under each slide with the throttle off. As I recall it should be a little less than the width of a 1/8" drill bit.
Are the carb slides in the correct sides? (cutout facing the filter)
Do you have the enrichener circuit connector hose in place? (The small hose connecting the carbs together)
75 Yamaha RD125B   75 Yamaha RD125B (project)
75 Yamaha RD250B   75 Yamaha RD200B (project)
73 Yamaha RD350     77 Yamaha RD400D   79 Yamaha RD400F  
91 Yamaha TZR250R  89 Yamaha FZR400   05 Yamaha FZ6   
05 Yamaha XT225TC  82 Honda MB5  02 Aprilia RS250 Cup (sold)

LMS

#2
First, thanks for responding so quickly.
I did not lube the tach cable, lubed the speedo though. :whistle: I'll pull it and give that a shot.
I'll fire it up and see if removing cable from tach causes it to drop to zero. Right now, once I turn it off, its sticks. I can tap the glass when bike is off, and it will drop to zero after a few taps.

Slides clunk, per say, but not sure how far they drop. But from my hazy memory, I think they are higher than an eighth inch. Will take a look. I synched the carbs using the popsicle (actually used something way thinner), method a few weeks back, so I might have f-ed that up. Plus, the bars were changed, cable pulled off, etc.
Looks like I have some hunting and pecking.
Will first start with tach cause I don't trust it. Hopefully I don't have to open it up, that's a royal pain.
Thanks again.
75 RD350 bought 12/22. First motorcycle I have ever owned.

SoCal250

If you swapped out bars, check the the throttle cable to make sure the cable housing ends are not hung up and are seated into the adjusters. Also check the splitter under to the tank. Moving things around may have caused the cable housing to pull apart and not reseat.
Easiest to just look at the slides to ensure they are returning fully to their resting position.
75 Yamaha RD125B   75 Yamaha RD125B (project)
75 Yamaha RD250B   75 Yamaha RD200B (project)
73 Yamaha RD350     77 Yamaha RD400D   79 Yamaha RD400F  
91 Yamaha TZR250R  89 Yamaha FZR400   05 Yamaha FZ6   
05 Yamaha XT225TC  82 Honda MB5  02 Aprilia RS250 Cup (sold)

LMS

Pulled cable at tach, fired bike up, spins great. Sprayed cable lube in there. Removed, attach, remove, attach but it still hangs up. I'm pretty sure it's the tach, and until I sort that, don't really want to F with anything else cause I'm not sure where it's really idling at.. ugh!

Pet cock. When I painted the tank, took it off and it looks like it's fine, but what do I know. It's not original, looks like its maybe a few years old. I put a gallon of gas in it which turned a nice shade of blue with that Honda oil I put in it. I can only see gas in the lines when it's on reserve. How far up should gas be in the lines, how many inches up from the carbs. On reserve it's about 2 inches up. When I switch it over to ON, it still runs but it sure looks like there isn't any gas in the lines unless it's a slow trickle that I can't really see? Is it okay to run bike in reserve position, guessing yes or it wouldn't be there, or is 1 gallon of gas not enough.
Thanks
75 RD350 bought 12/22. First motorcycle I have ever owned.

LMS

Fiddled with pilot/air screws. If I turn air screws in all the way, the bike barley changes idle at all. Definitely doesn't shut off. Same with opposite adjustment. Now, based on what I have read, and correct me if I'm wrong here, but that means the bike might be idling on the needle which I assume means the slides are too high?
75 RD350 bought 12/22. First motorcycle I have ever owned.

Striker1423

Slides should bottom out no problem if you turn the idle screws out and let the carbs close. If they hang up, as the other post from today, the adjusters may be outta whack and need a reseat. Is it a new cable? There's a short and a long set of cables, for a high and low top carburetor.

LMS

#7
Original cable. There was zero play in the cable. The person before had it so if you twist throttle minutely, it revved. I just played with the adjustment at the grip and now have about a quarter of an inch play. Loosened up the adjustments at the carbs as well, slides look to be all the way down. :cheerleader: Ran out of time to fire it.
I need to address the petcock, must have gunk in the tank as I can't get fuel to show in the lines when it's in the ON position. Unless 1 gallon of gas isn't enough, reserve is fine.

Idle rpm question. Idle for these bikes should be 12-1300. I did a lot of searching online for vids with 350's idling with chambers, and the ones I found, most look to have rpms around 1600 or higher, does it really matter all that much as long as it's not above a certain rpm's?? Some vids where bikes are idling around 1200 sounds like they are about to stall.

Going to remove tank, pull tach cable and thoroughly clean the inside. I unscrewed it at the tach, pulled it so it was hanging down, ran bike some, let it sit and thick oily sludge leaked out. I'll then pull petcock and see what's up.

I also need to figure out the kick starter. It's one that is for rear sets in that its bent properly and worked fine with old set. But the way I had to install the new cobbled together set because of the pipes and kickstand, they stick too far out. I'm thinking I'm going to cut the ends off the pegs as right now they are way too long as is.
75 RD350 bought 12/22. First motorcycle I have ever owned.

AAAltered

Regarding the rearset interference.... If you have a torch and vise, they can be bent.
The easy way is to use an RZ kick lever.  It's plug and play.
1971 R5
1976 RD200
2022 Moto Guzzi V7 850 Special

LMS

#9
I have the same lever as you do, but I had to shim out the pegs in order for it to work properly with my cobbled rearsets. The pegs on the rear sets are long to begin with, and with it shimmed, it's kind of goofy looking. Two options, bend the lever even more, or cut pegs. I think I'll cut pegs.
thx
75 RD350 bought 12/22. First motorcycle I have ever owned.

SoCal250

If you decide to heat and bend the kick arm further, make sure you disassemble the the arm and remove the kick boss. The heat will damage the spring (#4).

rd350_kick_boss.jpg
75 Yamaha RD125B   75 Yamaha RD125B (project)
75 Yamaha RD250B   75 Yamaha RD200B (project)
73 Yamaha RD350     77 Yamaha RD400D   79 Yamaha RD400F  
91 Yamaha TZR250R  89 Yamaha FZR400   05 Yamaha FZ6   
05 Yamaha XT225TC  82 Honda MB5  02 Aprilia RS250 Cup (sold)

LMS

For the rear set issue, I think I might have a solution. The company I bought it from provides foldable pegs. Of course, I went the cheap route saving a whopping 20 bucks and went with fixed. :bang: Waiting to hear back if they will sell me one peg.

Tach: Pulled cable off, cleaned the heck out of it, then decided to spin tach with a drill, same issue. Well, I have a nice clean cable now. Took tach apart, again, this time I got into the internals, and it was filled with all sorts of gunk, including some metal filings. Blew it out, cleaned the heck out it, fixed!

Next up..... Why doesn't gas flow when it's in the ON position. Stayed tuned folks for another episode of: How can Lawrence fix something he screwed up himself. Done for the day, will pull tank, petcock in next few days.
Thanks again for all.
75 RD350 bought 12/22. First motorcycle I have ever owned.

LMS

The significant other had a phone date, so I tore into gas tank. Petcock is fine, but I cleaned it just in case. It has a hvccycle petcock and the main pickup is really tall. No way in hell one gallon of gas was enough for it draw. Another lesson learned.
75 RD350 bought 12/22. First motorcycle I have ever owned.

m in sc

no, always test on reserve.  :twocents:

LMS

Quote from: m in sc on June 25, 2023, 05:41:41 PMno, always test on reserve.  :twocents:

Well, what do you know, I actually did something right. I just didn't realize how high into the tank the petcock went.

Hopefully tomorrow I can get her fired up and check timing, then go from there.
75 RD350 bought 12/22. First motorcycle I have ever owned.