The GT750M Restoration

[Striker1423]

To kick this topic off I'll let the attached featured article from the Flexi Flyer introduce the bike and how I came across her. This project is coming along slowly but surely. She has already won me my first small-town show award, but the process of reliable long-distance touring on this old beast has just begun.

Most shiny parts were purchased from Japan through Yahoo, and many parts I got very lucky with to keep the general costs down. This isn't a magnifying glass and white gloves bike. It's a rider I happen to bebop to shows. The tank and side covers are STILL at the painters, so you'll have to wait and see what that turns out like.

The biggest problem this bike currently has is the transmission issue I covered extensively in an older topic. So, yes, the attached pics show a brand-new Nova Racing transmission. Was it a dumb purchase? Possibly. But, this bike will have the best gear ratios Suzuki offered in the A and B models and zero transmission issues when I'm done with it dammit. Especially considering the price was almost as much as I bought the entire bike for ($2400, bike itself was $3000).

Does buy once, cry once count here? Time will tell...



 

[busa1300]

All you need now is one of these set ups from BDK 

https://bdkraceeng.com/suzuki-tr-750-dry-clutch-kit/

[Striker1423]

So, story time.

I had dropped off the paint work some 4.5 months ago at a new painter I found close to me. The guy had all 5 star reviews on Google. Not even a 4 star to be found. He only had 28 or so reviews but none struck me as odd.

I gave him a whole host of items:

The paint (RS Bike Paints from the UK)
Decal set from Diablo Cycle
Correct M tank badges and hardware from Australia
Side cover badges and hardware
Side cover decals

He charged $1097.00 for labor alone on a tank I bought off eBay.

He returned the paint work to me and the result looking back was so bad it's comical. I had my son with me so I paid him and left in a hurry. So, that night I looked at it I was shocked. See attached pics.

The guy took the decals and used those to tape off and paint silver on my tank that wasn't even at all. Runs and drips all over. But the absolute worst was the 180 grit sand lines under the base coat.

So, I ended up giving him a talking to and got all my money back plus a rough cost of materials. Almost 1500 all said and done.

I turned around and took the whole thing back to the painter I used before. I thought he was out of business, but it turned out he was on vacation lol.

[busa1300]

Looks like I need to start doing paint work at home when I retire, and just do tanks and side covers, if that's what the going rate is now. I know the cost of quality paint and clear is crazy, (even at my cost through work) but that labor charge should be illegal. Especially with such an incredibly simple paint scheme. Good luck with your next painter.

[Striker1423]

Labor isn't cheap in Michigan.

Actually, nothing is lol.

[Striker1423]

Painter is waiting on the paint from the UK and has ordered the decals from Diablo cycle.

So, onto the engine again. The cases split and I ran across a few issues from the initial rebuild.

I had a few broken bolts I was unaware of for the shift drum plates and at the time I was getting ready to button things up I had noticed them but the bottom end was already assembled. I successfully drilled these out and cleaned what I thought were all the shavings out of the cases, but dropping the oil revealed I missed a few.

Did these cause my moaning issues? No clue, but it's good to get these problems corrected.

Also, I'm installing new stainless steel barrel studs and chasing all the threads on the barrels for a much easier reassembly. Quite time consuming but easy to do and enjoyable.

Next will be the case threads for the side covers and the pesky oil seals in the clutch cover and starter cover.

[m in sc]

awesome. the stainless studs will make it easy for next years rebuild...   

just kidding, great work. this ones making you work for it, thats for damn sure

[teazer]

Those two bottom countersunk screws often fail and are a PIA to remove cleanly.  Be careful with fully machined studs.  The top edge of the two stepped studs catches on the base gasket unless it is very carefully lowered into position.  I have to chamfer the corresponding holes in the lift plate to get it to clear them.

[Striker1423]

On the good news side of things. Just installed this luggage rack.

[SoCal250]

We all love racks! Niiice!

[Striker1423]

The bottom end is almost fully together. Had a buddy stop by and he held the engine over the edge of the bench for the various bolt torques. Was a bit on the nerve-wracking side, but the first attempt yielded oil through the sealant for the crank since we stood the motor on its ass to get to the bottom bolts. No bueno.

All I have left is the ignition (Accent), charging system (Vape, also the best part, no need to time the rotor lol), and the top end.

Tonight, I finally got a good useable steering lock. Was able to mess around with the crimp enough on a fleabay T500 part, get the locking tab out, rekey the cylinder to my old wafers, and replace the short steering lock bar with the longer GT750 one. What a shit show.

[teazer]

With Accent ignitions, it is common to have to elongate the mounting holes to get it to time up in spec.

[Striker1423]

When I set the timing last time the accent although close to the edge was ok without elongating the holes. I'll see how it is with a dial gauge though. Instead of the timing mark like Peter suggested.

[Striker1423]

Top end instlled, neutral switch, stator, and ignition all bolted up.

Just needs the SRIS hoses ran and wiring tied up, then into the bike and all covers final installed.