Zeeltronic Programmable Ignition Controller on RD400

[m in sc]

there you go. the learning curve is sort of steep but short, you got it. 

[paul1478]

Thank you Mark for all your help and advice.
Once I found the save option on the controller and got into my head they call it a timing curve not a timing plot I was in business.
I still had a issue around 8300 with some breaking up.
I switched to resistor caps at the gap as the directions suggest. I was thinking this was part of my original problem so stopped by Wheelers and get some non resistor no name brands caps. Made no difference. To try and fix the breakup, I thought maybe the resistor plugs caps can help.
When I pulled the non resistor caps off the plugs one side the metal part that connected to the plug stayed on the plug. The other side just fell off the wire.
with the correctly installed resistor caps it now runs better that it has in years.

[Simmons1]

 

[m in sc]

Yes!    

[SoCal250]

  Sweet! Congrats

[paul1478]

I am still having problems. Mark has been a huge help, thank you Mark. This issue of burbling/ low power at 6000-6500 started after installing the zeel at the gap. I kept thinking it had to have something to do with that. I decided to take a step back and start at the beginning and try and see what was really up.
seems to me a pressure test was a good start before messing around with jets or electronics. I borrowed the pressure test kit from John at EC. Hooked it up today and could not even get 1lb to hold. I had to actually blow in the hose to get enough air through it to see what was going on. Easy to see on the photo. These are new boots, I put them on before the meet. I had a set rip 3 years ago and wanted to be sure that did not happen again.
This may not be THE problem but it sure is one. I am going to remove the cylinders as well to be sure I did not do anything to the pistons or rings while I am waiting on the new manifolds.

[m in sc]

oh, thats a problem for sure.

[paul1478]

I sure hope that's it. I remove the one cylinder and it looks perfect. I was worried I may have started to burn it up. Ill hold the pressure tester until I have the new ones installed to verify that was the only leak. 

[rodneya]

I am still having problems. Mark has been a huge help, thank you Mark. This issue of burbling/ low power at 6000-6500 started after installing the zeel at the gap. I kept thinking it had to have something to do with that. I decided to take a step back and start at the beginning and try and see what was really up.
seems to me a pressure test was a good start before messing around with jets or electronics. I borrowed the pressure test kit from John at EC. Hooked it up today and could not even get 1lb to hold. I had to actually blow in the hose to get enough air through it to see what was going on. Easy to see on the photo. These are new boots, I put them on before the meet. I had a set rip 3 years ago and wanted to be sure that did not happen again.
This may not be THE problem but it sure is one. I am going to remove the cylinders as well to be sure I did not do anything to the pistons or rings while I am waiting on the new manifolds.

If thats a boost bottle behind your thumb, get rid of it. All they are good for is breaking intakes

[m in sc]

the issue with the upp manifolds) is w heavier carbs.. they can tear. chuck rean into this at the gap years ago on HIS bike.  I ran into this as well, on the lc i supported the carbs (vm34s) across the back, and with the tms i'm currently running, the y boot is supported. on the r5 w rd motor, i have the top of the k&n in the y boot supported by a tool tray i made. the boost bottle isn't the issue, its the crease there makes a decent 'tear' point.  just hanging them out there, boost bottle or not, they will eventually go unless they are supported. the lightweight and the lc have been running these intakes for 6+ years no tears, but they are also supported on the carb side. The other way around it is to run a billet style intake with 'conventional' rubber spigots, but this adds length to the intake. 

a solution is also to mechanically link the carbs this reduces vibration and flex, a lot more than you'd think. ive done this as well with a small plate of aluminum. etc.

[1976RD400C]

I had a thrill with the upp manifolds and 34mm carbs. I hit a sharp bump in the road with the throttle open and the carb fell off. The sound was like a piston shattered and my heart sank until I stopped and took a look. 

[paul1478]

the issue with the upp manifolds) is w heavier carbs.. they can tear. chuck rean into this at the gap years ago on HIS bike.  I ran into this as well, on the lc i supported the carbs (vm34s) across the back, and with the tms i'm currently running, the y boot is supported. on the r5 w rd motor, i have the top of the k&n in the y boot supported by a tool tray i made. the boost bottle isn't the issue, its the crease there makes a decent 'tear' point.  just hanging them out there, boost bottle or not, they will eventually go unless they are supported. the lightweight and the lc have been running these intakes for 6+ years no tears, but they are also supported on the carb side. The other way around it is to run a billet style intake with 'conventional' rubber spigots, but this adds length to the intake. 

a solution is also to mechanically link the carbs this reduces vibration and flex, a lot more than you'd think. ive done this as well with a small plate of aluminum. etc.

This makes a lot of sense to me and explained a lot.