R5 one side missing at idle

[Greaser Greg]

Yahoo it runs! Starts one kick! So how touchy are these things to a rich fuel? Weak premix in tank and running the pump, fresh motor, seals, rings, everything. Mild porting with 150 mains and uni pods, stock pipes. Timing at .2 or whatever the book said. Haven't check it with a test light, however. Is that a must? Right side warms up slower at the end of pipe, less smoke and sounds like it's missing a bit. Plug was wet. Should I let it run to temp, then check the plug again, or what? Air screws are at 1&3/4. Cables look to be synced when I watch the slides. Go down to 140 jets?

[SoCal250]

How new is the battery and what's its condition?
Are the jets new? If not, did you remove and carefully clean and inspect each one? I would check the pilots. Did you thoroughly clean the carbs (meaning full disassembly and careful cleaning of all passages)?

As you increase throttle does the other side kick in?

[quocle603]

Make sure you check everything before you start rejetting your carbs.

[Greaser Greg]

How new is the battery and what's its condition?
Are the jets new? If not, did you remove and carefully clean and inspect each one? I would check the pilots. Did you thoroughly clean the carbs (meaning full disassembly and careful cleaning of all passages)?

As you increase throttle does the other side kick in?

No, it doesn't smooth out with throttle. Rpms waver +\- 150 at every steady 1krpm increment. swapped the coil wires-no difference.
Both plugs get real slimy. Right side has a definite "tinny" pop, and less smoke than left side.
Battery is good.
New main jets from Econ cyc
Yes,  cleaned the carbs well. I'll check the pilots again. I don't have the right brushes or pokers to feel safe inserting stuff into passages, just carb cleaner. I look at how the cleaner flows through things and hope.

Make sure you check everything before you start rejetting your carbs.

Are you referring to points gap, plug gap, connections, timing, oil pump clearance and air screws? What else? The right air screw is a little sloppy, and made a slight difference when changed, but I forget which way, I wanna say out made it better. That's why I think jets. Maybe float level? Jets are new.  Can one side be ok with one size but not the other? So many variables; i like puzzles!
Thanks for the input!

[quocle603]

If you're timing with points, you should check with a dial indicator to be 100% (check out the DIY thread, plenty of people shared info), then double check with a timing light. A lot of guys run it at 1.8 due to modern fuel quality, just make sure you're running some high octane gasoline.

Check for airleaks, ignition coils, condensors/points, connections, and etc.

[Greaser Greg]

Timing light like for a car? Or, a regular test light? I never did find any marks on the spiny parts behind the points plate. Rumor has it there may be a white dot.  I did use the micrometer style indicator, and followed the instructions in the manual. Gonna check the points gap and timing again. What's the deal with setting points marked l.h. for right cylinder and r.h. for left?
Checked the oil pump clearance. It's good.
Better not be no damn air leak. That's why I did the whole frickin rebuild! It is my first though so....
Plugs are B9hs. Maybe go to B8's?
Coils can still work but not be consistent? One wire is longer than the other. Swapped them, no change. Is that normal to have one be almost twice as long? Seems weird.
Funny thing is, the right pipe is all wet inside, and was supposedly clogged when p.o. got the bike. He unclogged it, but why so much water/black slimy crud in there? Was inside when I bought it, and since.
Maybe I just don't have a fricken clue what these should sound like, I'm a four strokes stroker, til now. One side is significantly hotter, so I know that's wrong. But the popping? Should run steady, even with no load, right?

[SUPERTUNE]

Did you use a new connector hose in between the carbs for the choke carry over?
Get new plug caps they are always bad if they have the stock resistor ones still on.
I like solid core wires also, not carbon wires.
Chuck

[m in sc]

timing marks on an r5 are under the rotor. yes, automotive timing light after the marks are verified.

as you are facing the alternator, the points to the left, are the left cyl , etc.

[Greaser Greg]

Did you use a new connector hose in between the carbs for the choke carry over?
Get new plug caps they are always bad if they have the stock resistor ones still on.
I like solid core wires also, not carbon wires.
Chuck

No new hose there since I've had it. That's sounds easy, thanks! (I like easy)
NGk caps.  I swapped the wires and it didn't make a difference.
One of the needles has a worn spot, so I may get some new parts after I check for air leaks, and timing. I did find the marks on the stator when I was checking the point gap. Right side was a little wide and setting that helped some, more smoke but still pops.  I didn't put any new parts in the carbs, other than mains, so....
Is there a full rebuild kit for them that is recommended?

[Greaser Greg]

So, while checking timing, found a bent tab on a points wire that was shorting across the insulator at points!  Reset floats to spec, and raised needle clip to middle from fourth. Currently on 140 mains and 40 pilots.   Needle jets are pitted so that's next but for now I'm gonna spank it as is!
Thanks for all the tips everyone! Going to meet florida Troy Saturday to get my next case.

[Greaser Greg]

Higher revs for longer than last chop. Me likey. Any suggestions?

[m in sc]

yeah, go ride it. 

[Greaser Greg]

Yeah boy! Just got my "new"rotor and reg from dr 2stroke! Won't have to stick so close to home once I'm juicin' that tiny little battery.