oil pump removal

[Greaser Greg]

Is there a way to get the pump off an R5 without pulling the clutch cover?  Screws are out but it seems reluctant to come loose of engine. 

[m in sc]

pump will come out but the shaft stays in. if screws are out, twist pump a bit to loosen the seal . then pull straight out. IMHO its better to pull the cover to inspect the gear, etc.. aren't you going to do crank seals soon anyway?

[Greaser Greg]

Different bike.  This one is called "Rusty".  Motor is fresh, pump started to click and leak, so... Thanks, I'll try that.
Word on the streets is to grease the bleed wheel pins and springs. 

[Organicjedi]

Different bike.  This one is called "Rusty".  Motor is fresh, pump started to click and leak, so... Thanks, I'll try that.
Word on the streets is to grease the bleed wheel pins and springs.

You might want to consider an oil pump rebuild. You can get it done for about $100 or attempt it yourself for about half that. Worth the peace of mind. 

[m in sc]

Word on the streets is to grease the bleed wheel pins and springs.

why? they are bathed in oil when its running. 

[Greaser Greg]

I've got a kit on the way for rebuild.
Yeah, I don't know why there would be grease in there, either.  Somebody recommended a member on another forum as an expert and that's what said member said.

[m in sc]

oookay. i've always just oiled them.   

[Greaser Greg]

I'm awaiting a response on that grease question.
So, the pump seems pretty happy on the case, doesn't move in any direction, and just leaks a little, for now. Have you noticed some pumps being louder than others, as far as the manual wheel pins clicking? Caught myself reaching for a rubber mallet and decided to not go there, yet!  Might try some brake clean on the gasket.

[Czakky]

I'm pretty sure they all click when moved manually....?

[Greaser Greg]

Yeah, both of these click, but one is louder and sharper sounding than the other.

[Greaser Greg]

Word on the streets is to grease the bleed wheel pins and springs.

why? they are bathed in oil when its running. 

He says there is no oil in that area.

[SUPERTUNE]

OK, I'll help you guys get a clear thought on the grease issue inside the pump.
Yes, you need to pack a little area in the pump where the short guide pin in the front housing for the shaft body pin goes, oil is in the pump, but only on the wet side of the seal. I'll have to document that sometime in my 'how to' section.

To tell you where this area is.... when you take out the 4) 4mm screws to take off the front nose where the pump cable wheel runs (not the plastic prime wheel) there is a seal in there, when you pull out the seal, there is a slot where the shaft body pin goes, this need to be packed with a little grease so the drive pin doesn't rattle in the slot and make a clicking sound.

Another issue you will run into is the 4 bolt rim gasket in the rebuild kits (Please use only Economy Cycles Yamaha kit from John) is aftermarket because Yamaha discontinued this gasket, the aftermarket gasket is just a hair thicker and you will lose gap clearance on the pump shimming so always order more extra shims as you will need more to get back in spec. usually 2 to 4 more is needed. Buy 3) of the .10 shims and 1) of the .05 shim from John @EC too. Yamaha only makes 3 sizes now, no thick ones are available anymore and they are pricey too. But you need them. Iv'e tried to find them elsewhere and it's a real oddball size shim.

They can be a pain to rebuild sometimes, especially the early 350's primer wheel model with the twin pin and spring locking pin on the rim gear!
Also make sure you don't flip the rim gear over too as its a directional locking one way clutch!
Another special note: Use a gallon storage bag to take the pump apart inside...if you accidentally knock off the rim gear from the shaft body it can shoot out the tiny pins and loose them!
Been there done that!

Chuck

[Greaser Greg]

Thanks Chuck! Got any pulleys with the R1 code? One of mine is chipped where the cable end goes in.

[SUPERTUNE]

Not sure as I would have to look...call me tomorrow after 10 am ...I should be at the shop!

[m in sc]

I have to very respectfully disagree.  the main shaft that rotates in the pump is between 2 oil seals in the main bod, and contains a third one inside of it for the plunger.  the shaft seal to the transmission also keeps these 2 from mixing.

here's how (i went and looked at a junk pump to verify)

this is the feed from the oil tank. you can see it feeds from under the oil pump seal in the back. (back being the end on an r5/rd pump where the prime wheel will be)  there is a gap from the seal to the body meaning everything under the seal is bathed in oil.





this next pic shows the pump flipped over looking from the inside with the main shaft pulled out. there is NO oil seal between the section in the back  that gets the feed along the shaft to the main area where the main geer drive and clutching mechanism is. this allows oil to seep in from the oil tank feed and keep this lubricated in injector oil. it doesn't see any real pressure here as the pumping is done inside the main shaft then backout the drillings to the feed nipples (the 2 brass ones) 



this is what seals the pumping action, this will keep the oil from coming UP the shaft the cable wheel is on.  Note the ramped cutouts, this is what the pin in the plunger gets its up & down motion from when the main gear is spun, the pins ride along this . (this also may be the clicking you are hearing, or as said, the clutching pins in the big gear). 










Like said, not trying to be argumentative but i'm pretty sure i'm right.