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DIY paint help?

Started by pdxjim, January 22, 2020, 03:30:48 PM

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pdxjim

Currently working on detailing my LC chassis.  The stock fuel tank was roached inside, so I got a new MIJ tank as replacement. Also, the Y/B/W speedblock stripes were not parallel at the tank/tail, which drives me crazy.

Old pic:


Unfortunately, a pro paint job is not in the card$ right now, so looking toward DIY paint.

Eventually, I want to take it back to stock paint, but the stock JDM 1981 RZ350 graphics kit from AFE is (out of reach for my broke ass at) $170, so will probably just go plain white with just YAMAHA in gold on the tank (or no graphics at all).

https://rddecals.afegraphics.com/view_product.php?adminshopping=&product=81RZ350JP-Blue-FullKit-R00048

What tips can you all give me about basic cheapo hardware store enamel rattle-can color coat and 2K clear?

So far I've done the tail piece with Grabber Blue basecoat/sanding coat (to cover the old yellow/black/white), and gloss white topcoat, but know I will need 2K clear to protect from fuel spills, etc.  I first wet sanded the old Y/B/W paint with 220/400 and then the blue with 1500/2000 before spraying with white.  Do I wet sand the white again before the clear?  Can I use satin/semi for the white, or does it need to be gloss?  So many questions.

As this is (hopefully) just temporary, it doesn't need to be perfect.

I'll be the first to admit that, so far, I am the worlds worst painter.  But since I can get Ace brand enamel for $2/can and 2K for about $20/can, at least I can fuck it up on the cheap til I can afford a real painter.

Wasting time on 2T forums since the dawn of the internet. '89 TDR250, '13 300xcw, '19 690smcr, '56 Porsche 356A

motodreams

Dust on a lighter coat on full piece then hit it in even medium speed coats until all wet.  Sand out any runs and deal with any dry spots.

Painters are now using the polisher as a more significant part of the finishing process.  If you end up with runs in your clear you can sand then polish them out.

Your prep is very important.  Use a block and ensure your grit is high enough to avoid continuous dips.  High build primer helps. 

Yes you sand before final coat to help with mechanical bonding.

Do whatever final coat you want but gloss is usually the best looking.  Flat/satin colors almost always look home-done and bad and wear poorly.  If you really want satin get a wrap or powder coat.

Rattle can painting in a garage is not a great starting point but it really just means more time sanding and finishing to get a decent final product.  There was someone out there that did a roller paint job on a car which looking darn professional albeit after a hundred hours of sanding.

pdxjim

#2
Quote from: motodreams on January 22, 2020, 05:44:12 PM
Do whatever final coat you want but gloss is usually the best looking.  Flat/satin colors almost always look home-done and bad and wear poorly.  If you really want satin get a wrap or powder coat.

Finish clearcoat will be gloss 2K.  Just wondering if color coats beneath clear need to be gloss, but if I'm sanding between coats to aid "mechanical bonding" then I'm guessing not.

Also, I'm assuming the 2k is a one shot deal?  So I need to have all the pieces prepped and color coated together.  Once the 2K can goes off it's done?
Wasting time on 2T forums since the dawn of the internet. '89 TDR250, '13 300xcw, '19 690smcr, '56 Porsche 356A

forexer

as long as it's a solid color your good to go with color sanding before applying the clear. Remembering to keep your cloth wet and your water clean is important. Also 400 is a sufficient grit - sand - paint - sand -clear - sand - clear and you'll be fine.

if you should happen to get those tiny air bubbles while installing your decals and trying to get them to lay flat you can use a sharp pin or needle to pop those irritating bubbles just be careful because those decals are really delicate and soap and water in spray bottle is very helpful

zedixe13

#4
This is a very good tutorial on home painting with rattle cans . Sadly a lot of pics on this tread are gone but there's a ton of valuable info .

https://www.dotheton.com/index.php?threads/rattle-can-bling-everything-is-here.10993/

2K clear can last a few days by experience and I was told to store the can in the fridge once it's catalyzed to extend its life .

pdxjim

Quote from: zedixe13 on January 23, 2020, 12:52:32 AM
This is a very good tutorial on home painting with rattle cans . Sadly a lot of pics on this tread are gone but there's a ton of valuable info .

https://www.dotheton.com/index.php?threads/rattle-can-bling-everything-is-here.10993/

2K clear can last a few days by experience and I was told to store the can in the fridge once it's catalyzed to extend its life .

WOW!  GREAT LINK zedixe13!!!  Tons of great info in that thread!
Wasting time on 2T forums since the dawn of the internet. '89 TDR250, '13 300xcw, '19 690smcr, '56 Porsche 356A

gwcrim

I did mine with Krylon rattle can and 2K clear and I'm extremely happy with the results.  My two biggest issues were:

1- I painted it outside and caught a few bugs.  They were quickly picked out with a razor knife.
2- The clear would accumulate on the can right below the nozzle and drip.  I was able to flood one out but the other I had to wet sand.  Keep an eye on that. 

Had it not been for the drips, I wouldn't have needed to wet sand the clear at all.  It turns out beautifully glossy and I'm just a backyard hack.

Oh, watch the overspray.  The 2K seems to be travel far more than regular rattle can. I really wish I had some sort of a booth or clean room.


Brad-Man

I'm cheap - I already had a 10x10 canopy w/straight legs i use at car shows, so I just wrapped it with Home Depot plastic sheeting...
Toys don't make the man - Man makes the toys.
1974 RD350
1975 RD350/400 project
1985 BMW K100RS

RDFL

That's how I did my inside one frame 2x4's and plastic sheeting.

oxford

Anyone have some tips on painting stripes and also putting on the water slide decals?

Plasticman

I use soapy water to apply decals.  Allows for air bubble removal.

Rob
1976 - RD400 - road racer
1977 - RD400 - project (single shock/cartridge fork/modern wheels/brakes)
1978 - RD400 - Auburn themed motorcycle
1979 - RD400 - Daytona (under restoration)