77RD 400 1st start after 27 yrs

[forexer]

I think I got everything pretty much done before it's 1st start however I do have a couple of questions before I kick it over?

I removed the oil lines off the carbs and placed them into plastic sandwich bags with zip ties. My question is what do you guys use to plug the holes on the carbs where the oil lines go. I was thinking of using aluminum foil tape but there's not enough surface area for the tape to stick so I thought I'd ask the group.

Second question - I have the air screws set at 1 1/2 turns out per the service manual however where should I set the idle screws for its 1st run? How many tuns out?

Thanks

[Barto]

Auto parts store assortment of neoprene or vinyl (?, colored anyway) vacuum caps come to mind.

My search skills are minimal, but I didn't find a checklist here on the new site for bikes that have been sitting.  Somewhere I've got the one JT of RDs Only wrote.  I'll look after dinner.

Good luck!

[rodneya]

You could just use a length of hose from one carb oil fitting to the other.

I usually screw the idle screws all the way out so that the slides bottom out and set them after the bike  is running.
If they are too far in you might start revving, or not start at all as the gap under the slide lets too much air in for the choke circuit to work properly.

[forexer]

It won't be a cap it will have to be a PLUG  and running the line from side to the other won't work because there's no fitting for the line to go to

The oil line is off the carb and the fitting is stuck on the oil line and I don't want to remove the fitting off the line because they're so fragile I'm afraid it will get damaged

Also I'm aware of the idle screw hitting the slide if it's in too far maybe i'll run mine all the way out like you suggest and then adjust as necessary.

Just wondered what the most common method / setting you guys use when you set your carbs up for ther 1st run after they've been rebuilt. How do you set your idle screws?

Thanks

[SUPERTUNE]

You could just use a length of hose from one carb oil fitting to the other.

I usually screw the idle screws all the way out so that the slides bottom out and set them after the bike  is running.
If they are too far in you might start revving, or not start at all as the gap under the slide lets too much air in for the choke circuit to work properly.

Bingo a winner!!
Chuck

[SUPERTUNE]

It won't be a cap it will have to be a PLUG  and running the line from side to the other won't work because there's no fitting for the line to go to

The oil line is off the carb and the fitting is stuck on the oil line and I don't want to remove the fitting off the line because they're so fragile I'm afraid it will get damaged

Also I'm aware of the idle screw hitting the slide if it's in too far maybe i'll run mine all the way out like you suggest and then adjust as necessary.

Just wondered what the most common method / setting you guys use when you set your carbs up for ther 1st run after they've been rebuilt. How do you set your idle screws?

Thanks

Stupid to get in a hurry!! I stock brand new oil lines...fix it right!
You should be using red or green loctite the fittings in the carbs as RD are known for them falling out ALL the time...

Screw out the idle screws all the way out. with the airbox tubes off, and screws turned all the way out, synk the cables first, then stick your finger in the inlet and feel the slide, turn idle screw in until screw just hits the slide, mark a line on the screw then go in 1 1/2 turns for each. put the carb tubes back on and your ready for your 1st start.
Idle will be a too low but is a great place too start if you have outer issues like an air leak...
Chuck

[forexer]

Since the manual states to adjust the idles independently to achieve 1100 - 1200 RPM I was just curious what you guys did for your initial set up with your idle screws after rebuilding the carbs. I decided to do what I've always done which is to screw the screws inward until light resistance is felt make a mark on the screw and then back it out 2 full turns this is the same for both carbs which is usually good enough for a 1st start after that when engine is warm adjust each cylinder to 900 RPM to get an overall 1150 or so total - basically you don't want the cylinders fighting each other. Sorry if I was over thinking this I just thought I'd ask the group

Ok today's update - went to start it up and it did not run - with the key on the ignition lights work checked for power at the points both the orange and gray wire show 12volts but when rotating the engine there's no spark so I'm thinking it maybe the condenser that's bad - points are gaped correctly and they open and close properly and have both been cleaned with alcohol.

Any other ideas what maybe causing this no spark condition?

[RDFL]

Do you have leads to points (and condenser) on opposite side of insulator from points.

[forexer]

It's completely stock a 1 owner bike with 3k original miles on it and since I was the 1st person to break the seal on the points cover I'm going to assume that yes it was connected correctly. However, I removed the condenser and did not get a reading of .22 micro farads per the service  manual so I need to replace it

With the key on I have 12 volts on the orange and gray point wires but what I'm not sure about is when the points go closed is the 12v supposed to go away and come back on when the points open because I have a constant 12v on the wires no matter if points are open or closed - not sure If this is right or not it maybe an indication of a failed  condenser -  Anyways, I'm going to replace the points and condenser and hopefully it will spark

[m in sc]

you'll see voltage at the points regardless.

capacitors (condensers) do break down over time. def swap them. get new points as well, the heels on those are 40+ years old, they will wear out extremely fast being that old.

[SoCal250]

It won't be a cap it will have to be a PLUG  and running the line from side to the other won't work because there's no fitting for the line to go to

The oil line is off the carb and the fitting is stuck on the oil line and I don't want to remove the fitting off the line because they're so fragile I'm afraid it will get damaged

You could just use a length of hose from one carb oil fitting to the other.

Leave the original hoses and injector nozzles intact and get new stuff for blocking of the carb oil ports. About $20 for the solution.
New repro injector nozzles from Economy and OEM Yamaha oil line 90445-05M07-00 (about $5 for 700mm/27.5")

[Barto]

Here is JT's checklist, if it'll upload in this format, for all of those who might need it.  I sure did and will.  I am not new to 2Ts but I am new to RDs.

I don't see mention of an auto lube check or pre-mix on this one.  Maybe Chuck and other Gurus (Jspooner, Mark, SoCal250 etc. (note diplomatic alphabetizing)) here can comment on it or provide their own.  It would be great to have a couple in The Tech Library.

[m in sc]

pdf version below

[forexer]

Thanks guys I appreciate the feedback and the checklist 

I'm going to order both the ignition tune up kit and the oil injector nozzles from John over at Economy

[Jspooner]

Here is JT's checklist, if it'll upload in this format, for all of those who might need it.  I sure did and will.  I am not new to 2Ts but I am new to RDs.

I don't see mention of an auto lube check or pre-mix on this one.  Maybe Chuck and other Gurus (Jspooner, Mark, SoCal250 etc. (note diplomatic alphabetizing)) here can comment on it or provide their own.  It would be great to have a couple in The Tech Library.

I would drain the old 2 stroke oil out of it and most likely replace the lines to and from the pump with clear. Then I'd put a quart of new oil in it and bleed the pump until the new oil is running freely. Then I'd put a bit of premix in the fuel tank and start it and watch the lines from the pump to the carbs fill up. If you were really worried about it you could measure how much oil the pump is pumping. Chuck has a write up on that somewhere.