points timing question

Premiumjo · August 22, 2020, 03:54:39 PM

Trying to set timing today on my 78 RD400. When i hook up my test light to either side the light stays on when i open the points. I did unfasten the gas tank and lift it a little and slid it back to make it easier to get the dial indicator in. The only way i can get the light to go out is by disconnecting the lead from the points. Tried a multimeter as well same thing. Any thoughts?

Striker1423 · August 22, 2020, 05:08:26 PM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iqardto3Kbs&

Try this. Hear the spark crack to check, then set with a timing light. Obviously set to your desired timing mm point.

Premiumjo · August 22, 2020, 05:20:43 PM

Good Video. I'm just trying to check static timing . I am apparently shorting out somewhere. I should not have continuity with the points open but i do. I'm guessing my problem is under the gas tank as i lifted it up and pulled it back some. Draining the gas now so i can pull the tank and take a look. Absolutely hate the cross-over hose set up

m in sc · August 22, 2020, 05:23:12 PM

thanks, thats me.

disconnect the condensers.

literally, just unground them and put something there to insulate them. should work.

Premiumjo · August 22, 2020, 05:42:55 PM

I removed the condenser completely. I pulled one of the points off and checked it in my hand to make sure the insulating washers weren't the problem. It is both sets of points. Never seen this before. Normally, hook clip my light to the little bolt clamping the lead to the points and when i open them, the light goes off.

Premiumjo · August 22, 2020, 07:00:08 PM

So i just kept disconnecting wires till i got to the Kill switch. When i turned the kill switch to "off" it worked like it should - test light on when points are closed, goes off when they open. Yeah, I'm getting a little older, and short term memory is probably not what it used to be, but i don't ever remember having to have the kill switch in the off position to set timing before.
Derp.

1976RD400C · August 22, 2020, 07:16:46 PM

Test light clip on points stud, test light needle probe thing on batt pos. Light should go out when points open.

quocle603 · August 28, 2020, 09:22:23 AM

did you figure it out?

Dvsrd · August 28, 2020, 11:25:08 AM

Quote from: Premiumjo on August 22, 2020, 07:00:08 PM
So i just kept disconnecting wires till i got to the Kill switch. When i turned the kill switch to "off" it worked like it should - test light on when points are closed, goes off when they open. Yeah, I'm getting a little older, and short term memory is probably not what it used to be, but i don't ever remember having to have the kill switch in the off position to set timing before.
Derp.

Just to be 100% clear, are you using a regular test light, or some kind of test light device with its own battery?

forexer · August 31, 2020, 05:34:17 AM

I had the same exact problem when I did my static timing on my 77RD.

Here's a video I found on youtube showing the issue

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pq3bMRn2xyU

What I ended up doing was disconnecting both point leads and the condenser wires and then and only then could I get it to static time properly.

Good Luck!

quocle603 · August 31, 2020, 08:53:53 AM

Unless you have a good set of points and condensor, it's going to be really difficult to set your timing. I had the issue of when I would tighten down a screw, it would throw off my timing a few MM which was either advance or retard the crap out of it. A lot of patience and a solid voltmeter or timing light would be the best option to use with the dial indicator.

m in sc · August 31, 2020, 10:09:54 AM

get it close static, and verify timing marks, use a timing light afterwards. no substitute will work better. That's just a fact.

quocle603 · August 31, 2020, 11:11:07 AM

Quote from: Premiumjo on August 22, 2020, 05:20:43 PM
Good Video. I'm just trying to check static timing . I am apparently shorting out somewhere. I should not have continuity with the points open but i do. I'm guessing my problem is under the gas tank as i lifted it up and pulled it back some. Draining the gas now so i can pull the tank and take a look. Absolutely hate the cross-over hose set up

There are some awesome quick connect ones from Economy Cycles: https://www.economycycle.com/shop/yamaha-rz-350/other/misc/quick-disconnect-fuel-coupling-dual-shutoff-in-14-or-516/ currently have this on my 75 RD

I've personally just got a couple of shut off valves and wired them into the line to help with this issues on my other 73 RD. I know the burden, just make sure you have hose clamps for those fuel lines.

Dvsrd · August 31, 2020, 03:16:12 PM

Quote from: m in sc on August 31, 2020, 10:09:54 AM
get it close static, and verify timing marks, use a timing light afterwards. no substitute will work better. That's just a fact.

Once, I experienced an RD350 that was running badly. Timed it with a test lamp multiple times. When using a timing light (strobe lamp), I could see the ignition timing fluctuating back and forth. It turned out the outer main bearings were shot, so crank wobble would cause erratic timing.
So static timing is just a starting point, as Mark already pointed out.

Premiumjo · September 05, 2020, 11:25:04 PM

Timing light seems like sounds advice. When I removed the condenser, the right side wire just fell off and there were several cracks in the insulation. I ordered a new one and some sudco points from a place in Ohio. Nearly 2 weeks to get to eastern PA.
I could have walked there and picked them up faster.

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points timing question