RD250 Gas Tank project start

[Striker1423]

EDIT: Please move to Haus of Projects. I'm just a bit tired and dumb tonight.

So you might remember I've debated painting my bike off and on for a while now.

I decided my best course of action was to leave my original tank as is and just try to find a better option. Well, Ebay struck me the other day and I now own an old RD350 tank that will do nicely.


So I start by checking around for body filler. Found it exactly where seller said it was. Was around a 1/4" thick. As you can see this dent has a decent crease in it. I'm not PDR guy, so I might be paying someone to pop that out.


Good application of heat mixed with a razor scraper and the yellow rattle can paint peels right off revealing primer, and the old orange paint.


Looks a lot better after an hour of scraping. So, off to a dent specialist and this tank will be ready for a fresh coat. Inside looks good as well as all the seams. I'll update as I progress.

[rodneya]

That was a pretty sweet yellow paint job you stripped off there

[Striker1423]

Tank is coming along. Aircraft stripper working well. Power wash and paint comes right off. Found a PDR guy that said he'd fix the dents for around 250 bucks even with no paint on the tank.

[rodneya]

Why not just get it fixed at a regular body shop. No need for that paintless repair prices when somebody can just weld on the little studs and yank the dent out. Or just bondo it. If done right there will be no issues

[Striker1423]

Why not just get it fixed at a regular body shop. No need for that paintless repair prices when somebody can just weld on the little studs and yank the dent out. Or just bondo it. If done right there will be no issues

I took your advice and searched around at the local places. One shop said to pull dents would be around 250 bucks to get it close, but not perfect. Another shop quoted me the "go away" price for repair, paint, decal apply and clear of $1500.

The last shop I tried was Paddock's Paint Works near my parents. He does the work for the Harley Dealer on their crash jobs. He took one look at it and said $100 bucks just to pull the dents. $300 to $400 to pull dents, blast tank and do the body work (As stated, without actually starting on the tank and seeing what it all needs, he charges $65 an hour). $600 to do the whole thing, with paint matched off original tank, clear, decal's applied etc. Another $400 to also then do the oil tank and side cover.

So, the best solution I can come up with is have him pull the dents, and either

A: Have my buddy paint it with his gun, clear it, and do the decals, expecting it to be pretty good, but not perfect. (Has done good work for me on my old truck.)

B: I tackle it with locally mixed 2k spray paint, diabolo cycle decals, and 2k clear out of a can and hope I don't mess it up.

[Czakky]

My suggestion, not knowing your experience level with painting but the first time you try to do this yourself keep it simple. Single color, etc. Even then it never turns out that great. The good news it you won't have to color match because you can do the whole thing!
I've rattle canned a few bikes and I get better every time but it's never gonna be show quality. I'm sure I spend almost $200 every time including epoxy primer, 2k clear, tons of sand paper, acetone, etc. and at least 8-10 hours of actual work. Also I don't mess with dents either...

[Striker1423]

I went with option A.

All told the paint (which I just had color matched), primer and hardener, clear and hardener, and reducer will be $188 from PPG. My friend (who used to be a body guy) told me he has done decal's and clear-coated over them before. If I take it to the dent guy and have him fix it for 100 bucks I'll still be below the original $600 quote even after paying my buddy. I'll keep you posted as to how it comes out. But, the paint was mixed up in a pint for $65. Just need to get the rest in the next few weeks.  Next thing is acquiring the decals.

[Striker1423]

Frame Off!

Now I'm really in it. Going with Rustoleum gloss black engine paint on the frame.


Here's how I mounted the Vape coil.


Now it's basically apart minus the footpegs and swingarm. Taking the grinder with a wire brush to her.

[quocle603]

I would suggest using a paint that will be chemical resistant or putting a clear coat that will resist gasoline or other chemicals. Would be a shame if you painted it and certain chemical started to take away all your hard work/efforts.

[Striker1423]

I would suggest using a paint that will be chemical resistant or putting a clear coat that will resist gasoline or other chemicals. Would be a shame if you painted it and certain chemical started to take away all your hard work/efforts.

Yeah, this seems to be quite a debate. Can't seem to find a clear answer either on Google. Go figure.

Folks are claiming rattle can paint needs several months to a year to cure properly? 

[rodneya]

Use the 2k paint. Bit more expensive buy will be resistant to fuel and oil

[Czakky]

With 2k rattle cans they only have 2/3 capacity of regular rattle cans. For one tank you should buy two cans to be safe...

[pidjones]

I have had good luck with doing whatever lacquer/enamel/acrylic/epoxy for good colorj, then clear 2K. For the 2K I've been using Spraymax (I purchase from Amazon, but others carry it). Just be sure that the clear covers all and that on the filler neck, it extends beyond the color coats. I've read of the fuel getting under the clear coat otherwise. Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy (not a two-part paint) does a good job on frames. Fairly fuel resistant (but I wouldn't use it on a tank) but not brake fluid resistant (is anything?) BTW, you will be amazed at the finish you can get with the 2K Sprsymax Glamor Clear. Wet sands, polishes and buffs out with the best. Somewhere around $23 US a can, and I plan on using one can for tank, oil tank, and side cover on my 400c project. I used it over lacquer on my show bike and a friend thought it was a high-dollar professional job.

[Striker1423]

I have had good luck with doing whatever lacquer/enamel/acrylic/epoxy for good colorj, then clear 2K. For the 2K I've been using Spraymax (I purchase from Amazon, but others carry it). Just be sure that the clear covers all and that on the filler neck, it extends beyond the color coats. I've read of the fuel getting under the clear coat otherwise. Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy (not a two-part paint) does a good job on frames. Fairly fuel resistant (but I wouldn't use it on a tank) but not brake fluid resistant (is anything?) BTW, you will be amazed at the finish you can get with the 2K Sprsymax Glamor Clear. Wet sands, polishes and buffs out with the best. Somewhere around $23 US a can, and I plan on using one can for tank, oil tank, and side cover on my 400c project. I used it over lacquer on my show bike and a friend thought it was a high-dollar professional job.

I go through Painters Supply. I have a color matched top coat already mixed up, just need the two part clear and a bit of two part primer. I'm having my friend paint the body panels.

Myself I'm tackling the frame. So. I've heard that appliance epoxy is good stuff. I'm just  not sure what will hold up ok. I used rustoleum professional on what was viable and it was OK. But, not sure where to start for the frame from scratch.

[oxford]

Here's what I did for my frame.

I got as much paint off as I could with paint stripper/remover.

I then bought one of those cheap gravity feed sandblast gun and hit the frame with it.

Coated it with epoxy primer and then used a 2 part single stage top coat sprayed out of the HF purple gun.

It would be much easier to drop the frame off and have it sand blasted. Then use the epoxy primer and top coat of choice.  I like to try and follow the buy once cry once moto.  It is not a whole lot of money doing it the way above and will be way better than a rattle can.