Author Topic: tach drive bush and shim  (Read 514 times)

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Offline Greaser Greg

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tach drive bush and shim
« on: November 30, 2020, 07:06:53 PM »
If those parts (14 and 13 in an R5 parts diagram) aren't in there under the cable attachment cap, what happens? Leaks? Worn parts?  I can imagine the small o-ring might get chewed up by the cable housing eventually.  I found them online, and am wondering if it's highly recommended to have all the parts in there, the way it was designed, der....   :umm: :whistle:  Maybe a washer and a spring will work?
Every day above ground is a good one.
'71 R5B "Rusty"
'71 R5B "Decaf"
'78 CB750F "The Skunk"

Offline dgorms

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Re: tach drive bush and shim
« Reply #1 on: November 30, 2020, 11:26:01 PM »
Greg, I probably have those on one of my parts motors, Yours for a beer at some other time, LMN.......................D
rz,r5,ds7,srx,fzr400rr,vfr,s3,cl77,s90,ad infinitum

Offline m in sc

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Re: tach drive bush and shim
« Reply #2 on: December 01, 2020, 11:41:18 AM »
assemble per manual. it can be tricky getting it to seal for sure if not.

Offline paul1478

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Re: tach drive bush and shim
« Reply #3 on: December 01, 2020, 12:27:10 PM »
the track seal was the source of a mystery leak on my 400. Looked good, I had a leak that looked to be coming form the studs that go through the case.
Chuck pressure checked it and located it.
76 Team Scream RD400
1993 FJ1200
2006 Goldwing
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Offline dgorms

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Re: tach drive bush and shim
« Reply #4 on: December 03, 2020, 10:00:47 PM »
Greg, I checked three of my motors, (R-5, RD-350, RD-400) and there were no loose parts (shim or bushing). Looking into the housing assembly (part #10) it appears they become integral with the housing after 40 some years! Babbitts shows the same part no. for all three bikes. If you need the housing let me know.......................D
rz,r5,ds7,srx,fzr400rr,vfr,s3,cl77,s90,ad infinitum

Offline Hardy

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Re: tach drive bush and shim
« Reply #5 on: December 06, 2020, 07:19:19 AM »
the track seal was the source of a mystery leak on my 400. Looked good, I had a leak that looked to be coming form the studs that go through the case.
Chuck pressure checked it and located it.

Side track, but Chuck has been very quiet lately! Is he ok?

Offline Greaser Greg

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Re: tach drive bush and shim
« Reply #6 on: December 07, 2020, 03:41:01 PM »
Greg, I checked three of my motors, (R-5, RD-350, RD-400) and there were no loose parts (shim or bushing). Looking into the housing assembly (part #10) it appears they become integral with the housing after 40 some years! Babbitts shows the same part no. for all three bikes. If you need the housing let me know.......................D
Thanks D.  I found some on ebay and won't need the housing until I have parts for another engine redone which might be a loooong while from now.  I appreciate the offer but I would just be hoarding, and someone else may want it for it's intended use.
Every day above ground is a good one.
'71 R5B "Rusty"
'71 R5B "Decaf"
'78 CB750F "The Skunk"

Offline Greaser Greg

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Re: tach drive bush and shim
« Reply #7 on: December 30, 2020, 11:29:21 PM »
Ok so I got a bush and shim online and found a general purpose viton oring kit in my stash.

 Being a cheap ass on a budget and just liking to use stuff I already have on hand, when appropriate, just where exactly should the magic happen with the actual sealing on the upper case and drive assembly; the part that spins the cable?  Is the upper oring (13) supposed to fit down below the ridge for the shim, which makes sense in order to expect a sealing action, except that the driven shaft is square at the top, or does it sit on the ridge with the shim? if it does, there is a big gap between the shaft and oring that will leak when it's like that.  Why can't there just be an oring between the threaded cable attachment cap and the shaft/drive housing?  That way any trans oil will just go up  into the cable and lube it! :nana:

  As for the bush, does it require some adjustment in the fitment process, meaning bending so it fits somewhere specific like halfway up the end of the cable housing? Does it belong all the way up in the end of the cable housing, halfway in, or what? If it's all the way in there it doesn't touch the shim so what good is it? Seems like it should hold the shim down on the oring and keep it down below the ridge and in contact with the driven shaft, right? Except the end is still square. :bang:  All the different ways i've experimented with this far, when the cable is threaded all the way down it still wiggles and seems like it will leak.  :umm: WTF?!

I don't wanna spend five bucks to get one oring the same size as one I already have, but don't know which one to use or where it should be. Sometimes the pics in the manual are simplified and don't give the exact image as the way things look in real life.   I mean, I don't  mind spending the loot if that's the best way, but what exactly happens in there?  Just thought I'd reach out to you all who have done it before prior to giving up and buying something I don't need.  I do that a lot already. :dawg:
Happy New Year! :vroom:
Every day above ground is a good one.
'71 R5B "Rusty"
'71 R5B "Decaf"
'78 CB750F "The Skunk"

Offline Greaser Greg

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Re: tach drive bush and shim
« Reply #8 on: December 31, 2020, 07:02:18 PM »
This morning I woke up and wiped the shaft and reinserted it so now the top where the cable goes in is flush with the shim ridge so it will seal on  the oring which looks like a donut with a hole just big enough for the spinny inner part of the cable to poke though.  Must have had some crud in there keeping things from lining up.
guess I'll figure out the bush part eventually. :blah: :blah: :blah:
Every day above ground is a good one.
'71 R5B "Rusty"
'71 R5B "Decaf"
'78 CB750F "The Skunk"

Offline Greaser Greg

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Re: tach drive bush and shim
« Reply #9 on: December 31, 2020, 10:16:02 PM »
Update:  As some of us in extreme southern Illinois often exclaim, them damn red chi-nee got me again! :taz: The threaded cap that holds the tach cable on is one mm taller than stock.  Just enough to prevent the bush and shim doing their job of holding the oring down tight enough to seal the cable to the drive. The cap was hitting the bracket thqt holds the drive housing in the case, allowing the cable to wiggle and drive me even more batshit crazy than I already was/am.
 :vroom: I love my bench grinder! :vroom:
Every day above ground is a good one.
'71 R5B "Rusty"
'71 R5B "Decaf"
'78 CB750F "The Skunk"