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Fresh start, fresh problems

Started by Striker1423, March 20, 2019, 12:51:52 PM

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Striker1423

Quote from: SUPERTUNE on May 23, 2019, 09:21:37 AM
Yes, will need to cut off the stuffer on the back of the manifolds. I use a new razer blade then grind the rest flush with a sanding roll on my porting grinder.
I also port the reed cages to match the Banshee manifold too while I'm in there.
No stuffer makes better mid to top end power with a slight loss of very low throttle. If using the YZ125 fiberglass reeds that makes it almost a even trade out. Stock metal reeds are a bit stiffer than the YZ modern reeds.
Chuck

So I can handle a razor knife and some sanding but porting reed cages sounds a bit over my bull in a China shop tendencies. Am I looking at any negatives to not doing this? Cavitation comes to mind. But this isn't a jet ski impeller lol. So prolly a bad comparison.

m in sc

just match it up to the cage opening as best as you can.  :toot: :cheerleader:

Striker1423

So I took the bike out yesterday and went for a rip. The needle clip set to 4th position, 210 main jet and a 35 pilot.  :celebrate: Chuck and Joe weren't kidding. Those Wisecos slapping away is so metallic and loud but it ran great and plugs are pretty close. Right plug still holds onto more burnt oil than the left but who knows. Could be the pump? 

She runs well. However, idle is a bit up and down. The air screws are at 1.25 turns out. Might try just backing them off to 1 turn. It started getting cold about 630pm so I think it was in the mid 50s. This definitely made the idle and take off a bit worse. So I'm thinking it's a bit lean at that setting.

I tried a few high speed runs and the last little bit of throttle caused some hesitations. It just sputtered a bit. If I backed off that last 1/8th of throttle a little bit it accelerates fine. So, perhaps it still a bit lean when cold? I'll have to see when its above 75 or so.

But I put 150 miles on and had a lot of fun. :)
https://imgur.com/gallery/SMcsgiB

Striker1423

So I checked my 2T oil level and it appears I used just about a half tank of oil in around 2 to two and a half tanks of gas.  I had overfilled it at the dealer where my buddy works and spent a few minutes wiping oil off the concrete... oops. But, I filled the gas tank up and rode it to around a half tank, then finished my work to it (intake boots, carb mods as listed) before taking it out this last time and filling the gas tank up twice, with each time around 2 gallons of gas. Does this sound about right? I do have the pump delayed 3mm. Shimmed to .2mm. Makes decent smoke at idle, and atomized oil is at the end of the pipes as expected.

Just curious what you guys usually get tanks of gas to oil fill ups? I heard somewhere usually around 7 tanks to one tank of oil? I know mileage will vary depending on the bike.


SUPERTUNE

Quote from: Striker1423 on June 03, 2019, 11:01:27 AM
So I took the bike out yesterday and went for a rip. The needle clip set to 4th position, 210 main jet and a 35 pilot.  :celebrate: Chuck and Joe weren't kidding. Those Wisecos slapping away is so metallic and loud but it ran great and plugs are pretty close. Right plug still holds onto more burnt oil than the left but who knows. Could be the pump? 

She runs well. However, idle is a bit up and down. The air screws are at 1.25 turns out. Might try just backing them off to 1 turn. It started getting cold about 630pm so I think it was in the mid 50s. This definitely made the idle and take off a bit worse. So I'm thinking it's a bit lean at that setting.

I tried a few high speed runs and the last little bit of throttle caused some hesitations. It just sputtered a bit. If I backed off that last 1/8th of throttle a little bit it accelerates fine. So, perhaps it still a bit lean when cold? I'll have to see when its above 75 or so.

But I put 150 miles on and had a lot of fun. :)
https://imgur.com/gallery/SMcsgiB

Too rich on the main jets still...210 are a bit big, go to 200's.
RD machine work, boring, porting, cranks and engine building.


Chuck 'SUPERTUNE' Quenzler III
Team Scream Racing LLC
1920 Sherwood St. STE A
Clearwater, FL. 33765
cqsupertune@tampabay.rr.com

SUPERTUNE

Quote from: Striker1423 on June 05, 2019, 10:59:45 PM
So I checked my 2T oil level and it appears I used just about a half tank of oil in around 2 to two and a half tanks of gas.  I had overfilled it at the dealer where my buddy works and spent a few minutes wiping oil off the concrete... oops. But, I filled the gas tank up and rode it to around a half tank, then finished my work to it (intake boots, carb mods as listed) before taking it out this last time and filling the gas tank up twice, with each time around 2 gallons of gas. Does this sound about right? I do have the pump delayed 3mm. Shimmed to .2mm. Makes decent smoke at idle, and atomized oil is at the end of the pipes as expected.

Just curious what you guys usually get tanks of gas to oil fill ups? I heard somewhere usually around 7 tanks to one tank of oil? I know mileage will vary depending on the bike.
I thinks that is about right on oil usage.
Did you use the 250 primary gears and stock RD 15/40 gearing?
Chuck
RD machine work, boring, porting, cranks and engine building.


Chuck 'SUPERTUNE' Quenzler III
Team Scream Racing LLC
1920 Sherwood St. STE A
Clearwater, FL. 33765
cqsupertune@tampabay.rr.com

Striker1423

Yes I used the 250 gearing, oil pump, stock sprockets 15/40, etc.

Striker1423

So I checked the bike for any air leaks around the carb boots etc and I dont have any but when the bike is good and hot it idles up and down a few hundred rpm. Usually low to around 900 or 1000 then back up to 1500. Tried setting air screws from 1-1/4 out to 3/4 and it sorta seemed to help. But not much. Could be my imagination, but I have the 35 pilot in it. The one issue I have is the left head pipe keeps leaking at the head. So, I'm going to have to find a replacement o-ring for it and see if I cant get it to stay sealed. Even red rtv won't keep the seal together.

It was more pronounced on the way home and it felt as if I was losing a cylinder at some stop lights. I'll pull the plugs again once it cools off.

SUPERTUNE

Check the charging system and battery voltage at idle with lights on and hit the brake lever.
Weak stock charging systems and bad battery can cause issues your speaking of.
I always use LED's in RD400 tail lights for this draw on the system, also because the 400's have twin tail light bulbs.

The Philips are the best ones I like...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HWS7XGW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Chuck
RD machine work, boring, porting, cranks and engine building.


Chuck 'SUPERTUNE' Quenzler III
Team Scream Racing LLC
1920 Sherwood St. STE A
Clearwater, FL. 33765
cqsupertune@tampabay.rr.com

Striker1423

Swapped the main jet to a 200 and clip to middle position. Went to the O'reilly's and found a few O-rings that should fit the head pipe and fix my exhaust leak. Will report back tomorrow what charging system is doing. Last I checked at around 3k the system was putting out 14.2 volts or so. Battery was on the tender all winter and kept topped up. Holds a solid 12 volts, but could be failing.

SUPERTUNE

Quote from: Striker1423 on June 09, 2019, 11:52:39 PM
Swapped the main jet to a 200 and clip to middle position. Went to the O'reilly's and found a few O-rings that should fit the head pipe and fix my exhaust leak. Will report back tomorrow what charging system is doing. Last I checked at around 3k the system was putting out 14.2 volts or so. Battery was on the tender all winter and kept topped up. Holds a solid 12 volts, but could be failing.

Check at idle also...with lights and brake on.
RD machine work, boring, porting, cranks and engine building.


Chuck 'SUPERTUNE' Quenzler III
Team Scream Racing LLC
1920 Sherwood St. STE A
Clearwater, FL. 33765
cqsupertune@tampabay.rr.com

Striker1423

I'll check the idle hopefully today when I get home. I'm having a hell of a time getting the exhaust to seal.up on the left side. I believe its leaking past the slip on pipe at the manifold. But I'll take it back apart and try to fix it yet again. My question is, can I use exhaust putty or something to seal this up? I have to get some copper rtv for the manifold to ensure it doesn't leak there, but as far as the slip on my new grainger orings aren't cutting the mustard and red rtv didnt work as well as it does on my sled.

Might need to just get better exhaust next year. This ones a bit finicky.


Striker1423

#72
Also, I was running low on oil so when I went on a group ride my friend at the dealer said he had a written off barrel of Yamalube TCW3 watercraft oil and said it would work ok. I put it in the bike and its definitely a lot cleaner burning, but should I switch it back to something else when this tanks empty?

The internet has me worried about it being an outboard oil, not an AC bike oil. Seemed just fine and I didn't have to wipe SkiDoo synthetic spooge off the end of the pipe after the ride. That skidoo sled stuff is gross and smokey as hell. Even coated the back of my shirt and my license plate with oil Haha.

m in sc

try to seal your pipes with 'the right stuff' if you can.




SUPERTUNE

I convert all the oil pump RD's I setup to Outboard oil!
Quicksilver synthetic blend from Walmart at $30 gallon.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mercury-Quicksilver-Synthetic-Blend-2-Cycle-Outboard-Oil/17165294

Chuck

RD machine work, boring, porting, cranks and engine building.


Chuck 'SUPERTUNE' Quenzler III
Team Scream Racing LLC
1920 Sherwood St. STE A
Clearwater, FL. 33765
cqsupertune@tampabay.rr.com