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Daytona Kill Switch Dilemma

Started by Milan, February 27, 2021, 04:54:26 PM

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Milan

So i needed to replace my switches.
Bought 2 new aftermarket ones.

Wiring for the light switch had all wrong connectors.
So i had to remove my existing wiring & retrofit to the new shell.

On the kill switch it was the same problem.
Wrong connector. But i could not use my wiring, as the toggly knob had different mounting.

So i spliced the old connector to the new wiring, & installed.

Went to stsrt the bike, & nothing.
Would not start.  I was already pissed at the other switch & now this.
Hesd spinning.

So, i put the switch in the Off position.
And it started .

So my old SW & the new SW had oppisit contacts.

Old SW had No Continuity in the Run position
New SW had continuity in the Run  position.

Based on being an Engineer, the New SW is proper.
SW off or wire cut = bike goes off.

Can anyone with a Daytona verify how there SW works.
Just open headlight, unplug connector & use meter.

M


1976RD400C

Looking at the wiring diagram, the Daytona is just like the earlier models. Points ignition, battery power to the coils. So when you turn the key on 12 volts should appear at the brown wire at the kill switch, the switch must be closed in the run position to send send the 12 volts to the coils on the red/white wire. Switch on off, it should be open and bike shuts off.
'76 RD400 green  '76 RD400 red   '84 RZ350

Milan

I agree with what you say.
But mine is not wired that way.
Open in the run position.

Canadian Daytona with Electronic ignition.

I will look for wiring as well.

m in sc

I get what you are saying. will later XS400 or 650 units work? the ones with elec ign stock?

1976RD400C

Well the Canadian electronic is going to be different. The switch is used to ground out the ignition to shut down. So, open switch to run. Just the opposite of the points ignition would do. One of the wires to your kill switch goes to ground the other to the ignition box. When the wire to the ignition box gets grounded it shuts the bike off. Switch closed is going to shut bike off. Is the aftermarket switch for a US type points ignition?
'76 RD400 green  '76 RD400 red   '84 RZ350

teazer

He's right you know.

With points or Dyna type electronic ignition, the on-off switch cuts power to the ignition and/or coils, so OPEN = Kill and Closed = Run.

With an AC DCI, the Kill switch grounds out the ignition to kill it, so OPEN=run and closed=kill.

E model on RD250 and 400 in all (most?) countries outside the US had an RZ style CDI.  US models had points up to the end IIRC to keep down costs as I recall the story.

Most Kill stitches on ebay for 2 strokes or pit bikes are the right type.

Milan

Problem Rectified:

I ended up getting a 12 volt relay to put inside the headlight shell.

I ran 12 volt power thru the new kill switch and to the relays coil.
So the relay would energize when the new switch was in the RUN position.

I connected the existing kill wires to the NC contact on the rely.
So when the switch was in Run, it energized the relay, and opened up the contact for the original kill wiring to be open.

I did this all without splicing into any of the existing wiring.
I used bullet connectors & made " Y "s , ( 2 into 1's ) to just plugged into the correct existing wiring, and that left a spare for my new connections.

Would still have been easier with the right switch.
But if I find one, it can all go back in without a problem.

M