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cheap regulator/rectifier upgrade! for all honda twins

Started by bracket maker, April 23, 2019, 03:36:00 PM

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bracket maker

cheap regulator/rectifier upgrade we are going to change the name of the post to 'the cheapest regulator/rectifier upgrade!' I'm going to post in decending order of cheap.

Quote from: asdfqwer426;111569I upgraded my rectifier on my bike using the radioshack rectifier upgrade, which i've used on both my bikes, and was very happy with it. however, I am only running a 4ah battery on one of my bikes and didn't want to trust the stock regulator to keep my battery from being cooked, so i started looking at upgrades.

I saw the single unit upgrades from charlies place and oregon parts, but they are bit out of my price range. I noticed that one of the units was identical to a reg/rect I had installed into an old riding mower. that unit had only cost me $45, so I started looking at those. after a bit more research I found a good, small unit. I was lucky and got mine in an auction for $10, however all the other units i've seen online sell for right around $25-30.

the unit is typically used for Kohler or John deere engines, its rated for a 12v15a system. these honda twins (as far as i know) only get about as high as 8a, so the 15a is plenty.

here's a link to one example.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/REGULATOR-RECTI ... 1881wt_568

the kohler part number is 25-755-03

now for those of you who have already upgraded to the radio shack rectifier, installing this will be a breeze, as it only has three terminals. AC1(yellow) AC2(pink) and battery+ (red or red/white) and it grounds out through frame, or you could bolt it on using a ring terminal. basically you just unplug the radio shack unit from the wiring, plug this one in, and remove the stock regulator.

here's a comparison shot.


and here's a shot of my wiring.


now, the hard part will be mounting it. for me, I installed this on my cafe 500t, so it was all custom mounted anyway. I would think it could almost be mounted where the stock regulator went however, only being bolted on with one bolt.

and while i installed this on my 500t, it will work for all honda twins with a 12v system and this kind of charging system


Quote

basically you just unplug the radio shack unit from the wiring, plug this one in, and remove the stock regulator.

this is total bullshit, you need the rectifier. no one at honda twins saw this and the post has been up 7 years.

wonderful let's start by correcting the post. then I will give 3 other cheaper methods in decending order of cheapness. this is not a flame of honda twins. I've read all 49 pages of this thread and none of them get it. do not waste your time. 2sw is the place to score good dope. here is your fix.

theory:  ac current is generated and needs to be turned to dc. the dc voltage needs to be regulated. this is the way it was done on the stock bike. we want all 3 stators wide open at idle. this is a pic of where we are starting from. 3 stators. the colors are white, yellow and pink. this is a modern rewire. forget about running the yellow wire to the handle bar light switch. yellow goes directly to the rectifier with this mod.



Method 1: cost about $13. radio shack is gone. let's use a different rectifier. one that did not exist when this thread was written. the kbpc3510 2 phase rectifier costs $2 shipping included.



yellow and white stator wires go to the ac terminals on the onan/kohler. the center terminal marked B goes to the battery and the case of the kohler/onan gets grounded to the frame.

the pink wire goes to an ac terminal on the kbpc3510 rectifier. positive goes to the battery and negative to the frame.

done.

method 2: cost $10. the modern 3 phase r/r is the honda cn250/ch250. it could not be simpler to wire in. the 3 stator wires (pink yellow white) get wired to the 3 yellow wires on the r/r. the green wire goes to the frame and the red to battery. done.



method 3: cost $4.74. someone on 2sw turned me onto this. there is a dude on this site running a scoot r/r on a powerdynamo.  its scr runs on AC and costs $2.37 each. we will need 2 of them. If you run the stock headlight you need to run a battery. 4.5 ah is a plenty. if you change to led's you can run a battery eliminator. economy sells them. it wires in just like a battery.







method 4: costs under $3. roll your own. got a tip on this site for Irfz44n n channel mosfet. looked up how much this part costs. they cost 10 for $1.79. jim knows his shit. you will need 2@$.36 a zener $.20 insulator with bushing $.25. one 10k resisror$.15 and a $2 rectifier. I'm going to skip the details.


HAPPY TO BE HOME, 69-13 FTW,

pdxjim

Quote from: bracket maker on April 23, 2019, 03:36:00 PM
... as per pdxjims complaint I'm going to skip the details ...

Your first mistake is to listen to me at all. 

I'm sure everyone else will appreciate all the details you have at hand.

Wasting time on 2T forums since the dawn of the internet. '89 TDR250, '13 300xcw, '19 690smcr, '56 Porsche 356A

bracket maker

#2
Quote from: pdxjim on April 23, 2019, 03:52:27 PM
Quote from: bracket maker on April 23, 2019, 03:36:00 PM
... as per pdxjims complaint I'm going to skip the details ...

Your first mistake is to listen to me at all. 

I'm sure everyone else will appreciate all the details you have at hand.


you are not wrong. if I roll my own then the next owner wont be able to fix it. also this way you can use the stock wiring through the stock fuses. yes it works on the cb77 305. this is a mechanics forum. #2 is the easiest and cleanest method.
HAPPY TO BE HOME, 69-13 FTW,

bracket maker

Quote from: pdxjim on April 23, 2019, 03:52:27 PM
Quote from: bracket maker on April 23, 2019, 03:36:00 PM
... as per pdxjims complaint I'm going to skip the details ...

Your first mistake is to listen to me at all. 

I'm sure everyone else will appreciate all the details you have at hand.

only if mark asks for it.
HAPPY TO BE HOME, 69-13 FTW,

m in sc

i personally dont care. speak your mind just follow the forum rules.  :patriot: 

bracket maker

#5
Quote

basically you just unplug the radio shack unit from the wiring, plug this one in, and remove the stock regulator.

this is total bullshit you need to rectify all the stators. here are the exact stats: 04-15-2012 is the day this thread was posted on the honda twins site. 49 pages long , Replies: 487,  Views: 179,522 and nobody on that site could see the first post was screwed up. when I corrected the post on page 50 they stopped me from posting!

pdxjim, I'll show you how to roll your own, and why I'll try not to do this in the future.



12v is because its lighting only. this is for a bike that runs an ac ignition.

no matter how much you look at that pic it won't float your boat. but how about if I post about how to run 14.3v on any dt, ke, kd, kh, ts, xr, xt, kdx and any other bike with spinning magnets in the flywheel using the $2.37 scoot regulator. thats my next post.
HAPPY TO BE HOME, 69-13 FTW,

bracket maker

#6
Sorry pdxjim. this is why you are right. this is basically the same circuit. I know everyone can read this one. Ill try to post like this in the future. economy cycle has the battery eliminator and connectors for a pro job.

HAPPY TO BE HOME, 69-13 FTW,

pdxjim

Please leave me out of the conversation

I have less than zero interest in Honda twins.

Wasting time on 2T forums since the dawn of the internet. '89 TDR250, '13 300xcw, '19 690smcr, '56 Porsche 356A

m in sc

me either Jim, but it does apply to other charging systems. i have NO love for honda twins as well, have owned a few. no desire for another. but, hes right on the info.

bracket maker

#9
Quote from: m in sc on April 25, 2019, 02:55:19 PM
me either Jim, but it does apply to other charging systems. i have NO love for honda twins as well, have owned a few. no desire for another. but, hes right on the info.

got a lifetime ban at honda twins today for posting the right info. the mods there went back and deleted some of my posts so people will think I'm an idiot. lifetime ban without breaking any forum rules. that site is a disgrace putting site politics before knowledge.

I have no fear of being banned at 2sw for posting. I'll post it here because it is good info.

the regulator for a magnito (magnets in the flywheel) is turned off at idle no matter what the technology inside the regulator. this is because the voltage at idle is below the charging voltage. it does not matter what the tech inside the regulator is. scr,bjt,mosfet,sprack moto,john deere,oregon motorsports or mechanial, all are turned off at idle. magnito regulators serve no function at idle.

cb350 cb360 honda twins rectifier is a diode pack containing 6 diodes. a 3 phase rectifier has 6 diodes. you can rewire any honda twin in the modern 3 phase configuration. even the old ones, cb77, cb72 just rectify each of the 3 ac stator wires.

any honda twin can run without a battery if the bulbs are changed to led and the bike is run 3 phase.




HAPPY TO BE HOME, 69-13 FTW,

bracket maker

#10


fucked this one up. the rec/reg internal circuit is a trade secret. read a Russian post and saw the circuit diagram. they were right about this on honda twins. method 1 has been corrected.
HAPPY TO BE HOME, 69-13 FTW,

bracket maker

#11


so why did I get banned on the net. they say the tech inside the r/r is scr and not mosfet. read some more on the internet. what that means is that scr won't work dc only. I can't use the regulator without rectifier. I am not a fuck up. these are secret honda trade secrets. got help from the russians.



what this means is this part only works AC. you must run through the rectifier for this part to work. I wish you people would jump all over me when I get stupid like this. anyway this post is fixed and they are screwed up on the net. I don't see any pics like mine anywhere else but 2sw.

HAPPY TO BE HOME, 69-13 FTW,

m in sc

Stop with the commentary already.  :whatever: last warning. 

bracket maker

Quote from: m in sc on May 24, 2019, 03:15:44 PM
Stop with the commentary already.  :whatever: last warning.


thats the problem. I want to let people know how to fix bikes and I have failed. the reason for the russian post is because the gy6 regulator internal componants are a trade secret. its different than what I do. I rectify then I regulate. DC. didn't even think about the AC electric drill motor controller. its called an scr. it regulates AC at the rectifier. I can read these diagrams thats what the russian picture says you can not run it DC. those chips are cheap. thats why they use them.

the part is still easy to use it just needs to be wired through the rectifier. any bike with a magnito can be wired using it. what it means is my post in the tech section is all screwed up because I thought an AC part is DC. I need to rewrite it. wish people here would say something when I screw up.
HAPPY TO BE HOME, 69-13 FTW,

m in sc

1:post the info, if you need corrections, make them. we all have done that. Nobody caught it because 99% of us don't do things the way you do. (not a bad thing)

2: you can make the comments with out the clever political swipes or bashing slightly another forum.

3: your information is greatly appreciated. nobody will bash you if youre wrong.