Question about changing the left crank seal

[RDDave]

'75 RD350

Please don't think this is a dumb question.......but is the bolt that retains the rotor left hand or right hand threads? I ask because it is VERY tight. I have a big 1/2" ratchet on it and haven't gotten it loose yet. I just do not want to twist it off.

I have a manual, but it doesn't address this nor have I found any info with a search.

And just to be clear; to pull the rotor (that is IF I ever get the bolt out) I use the rear engine mount bolt to push it off with? That, I found when searching for which way to twist the bolt.

Any other hints, tricks, or thoughts would be welcomed!

Thanks

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[quocle603]

Last that I recall, its not reverse threaded. Yes, the mounting bolt will push the rotor off.

[1976RD400C]

Yes, turn counterclockwise to loosen. Put a drop of oil on the threads of the bolt you use as a puller.

[RDDave]

Thank you!

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[RDnuTZ]

I always use my air impact for stuff like this. Don't have to go crazy but that quick initial "braap" to jar it loose a little is a must for me...

[RDDave]

I have impacts. I just didn't want to hit that bolt with that much energy before I had some idea of what I was doing. 

I found that using my oil filter wrench is the best way to hold the rotor. Almost fits like it was made for it.

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[m in sc]

itll hold it but usually isnt nec. its a 7mm thread. keep that in mind.

[RDnuTZ]

I have impacts. I just didn't want to hit that bolt with that much energy before I had some idea of what I was doing. 

I found that using my oil filter wrench is the best way to hold the rotor. Almost fits like it was made for it.

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Having no idea what I was doing never stopped me 

[RDryan]

I have impacts. I just didn't want to hit that bolt with that much energy before I had some idea of what I was doing. 

I found that using my oil filter wrench is the best way to hold the rotor. Almost fits like it was made for it.

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You could always just use a breaker bar as it maybe too much stress not enough leverage for the ratchet. So if the rotor/crank wants to move while trying to loosen the bolt you could create a piston stop with some rope coiled in one of the sparkplug holes or either buy one or make one.

[m in sc]

back in my 20s it was a 6 pt box end wrench and a hammer. im serious. its fine. 

[RDnuTZ]

yep done that If motor in bike and chain on I used to just put in gear and step on brake and use the breaker bar or big wrench. The penny in Primary gears worked too.

[RDDave]

After knowing that the bolt is right hand threads, the impact made light work of it and of pulling the rotor. Thank you for all that information.

Now, I have the new Yamaha seal and am ready to pull the original. But before I do, tell me what I need to know about the rib on the seal. I know that the seal is meant to be installed with the cases open. Obviously, I am trying to change it without splitting the cases. Can I? I have looked with the search and at youtube but have not found anything on this. Can I actually do it without splitting the cases?

Any tips, tricks, advice would be most appreciated.

Thank you! AGAIN!

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[m in sc]

might be a bit late, but the r5 seals do t have the rib.

[RDDave]

I already have the RD seals. Since I now know how to access this seal and will monitor the plug; what if I 'dress down' the rib on the RD seal and try it? If, for some reason it doesn't work, I can then go with the R5 seal.

And these seals go in dry, right? I usually use some alcohol on these kind of applications. It is a bit of a lubricant, but then dries and is no longer slick.

Thoughts, opinions..................

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[m in sc]

very carefully shave it off. when I dirty dog it like that I usually use some case sealant on the outside of the seal. most will be shaved off but some will remain.  have you dug the old seal out yet?