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RD250b Vape Install

Started by toffee, August 26, 2020, 02:59:30 AM

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toffee

I have modified and fitted a Vape Powerdynamo to my project
as per the brilliant thread by SUPERTUNE's directions 

http://www.2strokeworld.net/forum/index.php?topic=855.0

I'm still tinkering away with the electrics and very slowly making progress
on getting things working as in lights and indicators.

I dont have the engine fully built but wanted up to now to get the lights
sorted.

regarding the relay on the vape system I dont know how to fully wire it,
I connected it to the Black/red wire from the kill switch that would
have fed the two original coils but im not hearing a "click" when the key
is turned to position I

does anyone know how the Black wire from the relay should be connected?
or if that stray Black/Red wire from the kill switch should be wired?
"An object at rest stays at rest and an object in motion stays in motion..." - Newton's 1st law of Motion

rodneya

This is how I wired in my kill switch on my 350

quocle603

I followed the same diagram for my HPI ignition. Your power (black cable label SW) should spliced the power source of the coils Red and White on the RD400 and Red and Black on RD350. I used one of those quick wire splicer to do this.
Do not underestimate the power of a two-stroke.

1975 Yamaha RD350 (modified), 1973 Yamaha RD350 (stock), 1971 Suzuki T500, 1981 Yamaha XS650 HS2, 1982 Honda MB5, 1980 Puch Maxi, 1979 Puch Magnum, 1993 Tomos Bullet, 2003 Malaguti Firefox F15 LC

Czakky

Quoc! You don't have a soldering iron?   ;D

m in sc


85RZwade

I post waayyy too much

quocle603

#6
Hey now everyone! lol Don't yuck my yum. If I end up stranded somewhere because of this, I will let y'all know about my struggles :whistle:

I am the worst when it comes to wiring, I'll use wiring nuts to test something out and be like I'll come back and clean things up and never do it. The same goes for the relay wiring, I did.  :hey:
Do not underestimate the power of a two-stroke.

1975 Yamaha RD350 (modified), 1973 Yamaha RD350 (stock), 1971 Suzuki T500, 1981 Yamaha XS650 HS2, 1982 Honda MB5, 1980 Puch Maxi, 1979 Puch Magnum, 1993 Tomos Bullet, 2003 Malaguti Firefox F15 LC

pidjones

The herpes of the electrical world. Poor connection, damaged insulation, and cut strands (resulting in reduced current to your loads). Bad enough when first produced by Scotch, but now cheap copies make them very bad. Vetter sent them with their GoldWing fairings, and the GL1000s that I've rescued have each had a headlight bucket full. Removing them I usually find about half of the copper severed. If just to a signal I might just heal the insulation wound with liquid electrical tape. Otherwise it requires the soldering iron to come out for a proper splice.
"Love 'em all.... Let GOD sort 'em out!"

quocle603

 :righteous: twisted my arm, i'll fix it today. :righteous:
Do not underestimate the power of a two-stroke.

1975 Yamaha RD350 (modified), 1973 Yamaha RD350 (stock), 1971 Suzuki T500, 1981 Yamaha XS650 HS2, 1982 Honda MB5, 1980 Puch Maxi, 1979 Puch Magnum, 1993 Tomos Bullet, 2003 Malaguti Firefox F15 LC

AAAltered

Quote from: quocle603 on August 28, 2020, 06:13:37 AM
If I end up stranded somewhere because of this, I will let y'all know about my struggles :whistle:

Take it from me, I *did* get stranded by a Scotch connector.  It's so easy to avoid.



Move to bullet or solder connection......
1971 R5
1976 RD200
2022 Moto Guzzi V7 850 Special

quocle603

Thought I was the only one.
Do not underestimate the power of a two-stroke.

1975 Yamaha RD350 (modified), 1973 Yamaha RD350 (stock), 1971 Suzuki T500, 1981 Yamaha XS650 HS2, 1982 Honda MB5, 1980 Puch Maxi, 1979 Puch Magnum, 1993 Tomos Bullet, 2003 Malaguti Firefox F15 LC

m in sc

bit me once before as well.  I keep a few in the toolbags as an emergency fix but otherwise, nope.

SoCal250

75 Yamaha RD125B   75 Yamaha RD125B (project)
75 Yamaha RD250B   75 Yamaha RD200B (project)
73 Yamaha RD350     77 Yamaha RD400D   79 Yamaha RD400F  
91 Yamaha TZR250R  89 Yamaha FZR400   05 Yamaha FZ6   
05 Yamaha XT225TC  82 Honda MB5  02 Aprilia RS250 Cup (sold)

oxford

While this thread is up and instead of starting a new one, can someone confirm that the yellow wire going into the coil would be the correct wire to use as a signal for an electronic tach? 

I was planning on using solder for this connection but after reading this thread is seems like a scotch connector would be a better choice.  :dawg:

m in sc

yes, from the trigger.

yellow wire for sure


use a yellow scotch lock or wire nut.  :nanana: