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Wondering if you traced the wiring with a meter to see where the voltage stops or isn't going.

BTW from the other issue I am having with my VS dyna don't do this test with the engine off for every long or you could burn something out (I forgot what it was on the plate). Hope you fix it but being old I'm thinking you have some wire that is touching the frame or a loose connection doing this. As proven I'm not that smart.

Okay I downloaded the RD400 instructions those look like what they sent to me, I'm not some expert especially on ignitions and since I haven't touched my bike in 2-3 years now, I wanted a refresher... When I searched I didn't see that other topic come up.

I apologize if I bothered anyone here... I'm realizing people are real touchy regarding this brand... I did pay full price for the kit and I like it or did... Anyway thank you for the help here!

I am not sure how stock the engine was/is this tuner guy I hired might have done some port work but I don't recall 100%... I just know in my case 120 was not the right size... maybe it was 145 sort of forgot... my apologies and my engine issue was not related to the jetting....

Hey not sure if this is any help but I live by the beach in LA my bike 250 is stock and had 120 main jets, I really wanted it to run clean so I started researching jetting, I understand it changes based on weather/humidity etc. In my case, I found if I was on PCH out a ways there is a long downhill and then an uphill, I was wide open going up and noticed my bike would bog from what I was reading it said it was being starved. I started going up on the main jets and noticed at 165 I think it was running a lot better everywhere except 1/8 throttle but then I had an engine problem... Also I found my gas line size made a difference (with filters). You might consider trying going up to 135 and seeing what happens my plugs looked good with 165 about the same as 120 (yamalube) like I said I'm not an expert here but it did help.

I bought a kit from Nick years ago, bike hasn't ran for 4 years now, I lost the little manual he sent and wondered if anyone can share a copy with me. 73 rd250 his kit worked but I had to have someone else figure it out but they never gave the paperwork back to me.

Thank you if you can help me out.

Thanks Chuck I will take a look at my pictures and the setup.

My apologies, RD250 73

Hello as my world turns I put the right side of my bike back together a couple weeks ago. I am leaving town tomorrow and wanted to get the head the bike sealed so nothing will get into the motor.

I was adding a little oil in the cylinders and trans and I was using the kick starter and it dawned on me that the lever wasn't springing back like normal. Obviously I didn't follow my pictures but is there a little trick, or something anyone can mention?

Thanks I won't be back for a month or two due to the Virus, but I'd love to put this bike to bed... Appreciate your help as usual....

Thanks for all the replies, I got it off by using a wood chisel, with not a lot of hammer... Lucky there, but noticed one thing, the old cylinder reed valve (not sure what it would be called) cutout with female screw holes is not square I tried putting the replacement reed block in and it's definitely off by 1/8"...

I found out the mechanic who did the original seal repair on my bike 5 years ago put longer screws on the reeds and he tightened them at least 20lb maybe more I needed a hammer to get the screws out (allen). 

All good but very strange...

Thanks very much will give it a try also thought about putting some denatured alcohol on it as well will test it out tomorrow.
Thanks '64

Hello,

I have an RD250 and I had to swap cylinders as one was chewed up and I had purchased a spare for situations like this. I wanted to put my original reed valve block on but it seems to be really stuck on the cylinder. I'm assuming some gasket sealer was added at some point by the previous owner. I used a punch and small screw driver but I cannot get it off. How hard would you go with a hammer and screw driver. I did tap about 20-30 times around the block. Appreciate your reply in advance....

Appreciate that link, and the pictures. The seal I'm referring to is not that one, it probably goes in the parts under the trans. gears... I didn't take that off.... I noticed I bought some plugs for the shifter but I didn't pop them out as I figured you would need to take that apart and I can't handle that at the moment since that's where my stripped - cross threaded screws are.

One thing I will need later is a few electrical male plugs I recall they are not standard size vs what my local electrical store carries... I will need to find a replacement. In a certain way you guys were right about this not being overly difficult of course I say that being the neurotic person I am. Of course I won't know until I get this together an do a pressure test, which could be weeks away... I sincerely appreciate all the assistance I really owe you all some drinks...

Thanks for that information on the locktite...
I have manuals but I what I notice is there are some description on what to do but they don't give all details and the pictures sort of show the item and then it's gone...

I realize I am pretty ignorant and asking basic questions.. I'm not highly mechanical. Sorry but it's these bikes you can't take it a shop. If there was a shop it would 1000 which I don't have.

I do have one seal it's really small and I don't know where it would go....
about 1/2 in diameter...
Also, I do not see the ball bearing from the clutch do they fall out easily? I never tilted the engine when I took the basket off and I never saw the ball bearing...

Thanks....

Ok I did re-tighten the two screws, however, I think my case is cracked on the very back side upper... I wanted to also ask you if you've ever seen this from yamabond 4 oozing and pushing the seal away my original problem was a leaking right seal.

I almost have it split once I do, I'll see if what I think is a crack really is.

The flat screws on the top left I hit with an impact it moved 1/2 turn but it's very tight literally need the impact to turn it 1/8 each hit but I'm not going crazy hitting it... I'm torn I don't know what to do with it but if you hit with an impact 4 times to get to 1/2 turn loose it should come off easy right?

If I'm going to mess with one I should do the other. I can't tell if both are cross threaded or not. The other two screws both popped when I gave it quick 1/4 turn with the screw driver.

I was really hoping I wasn't going to post until it was done.