Fork springs, oil, spacer questions

[LMS]

I have read quite a bit on the subject, and I know what I should probably buy, but at the moment some of this is above my pay grade and skill set. My significant other is doing a lot of eye rolling as packages slowly end up on the front porch. A lot of, "now what?"
The bike will be ridden here and there around Chicago, streets suck, but also up in the burbs. I will not be riding this bike balls to the wall.
Springs: I have Sonic springs on order.
Emulators: I will not be installing ones from racetech, etc. These are just too much money for me to spend at the moment. That will be later down the road if need be. Which brings me to spacers. Are the sonic springs the same length as stock, if not my guess is that they might be shorter which would mean I need longer spacers?
Oil weight and level. What would be a good weight, should I stick with 10W or move up to 15, and at what level with these springs?
Thanks, again.

[oxford]

The "spacers" are setting preload on the springs, if the new springs are a different rate then what is stock (which I assume it will be) even if the new springs are the same length as stock it most likely have a different preload.

PVC pipe can be used as a preload spacer, it is cheap and easily worked with basic tools.  If you mess up or need more or less preload, throw out the old ones and cut a new piece.  I think you need 1/2"????? PVC. 

[JBeasty]

This is what I just used (the ID is 0.6"). It fits in there a little loose, but the next size up is too big.

[1976RD400C]

I think without emulators you want at least 20wt oil. The manual says 10-30 motor oil in the forks.

[LMS]

I think I'll split the difference and do 15wt.
PVC seems to be the ticket then.
Thanks

[teazer]

Try a set from Mikes XS.com.  Great price.  And yes to the smaller PVC tube for spacers to set pre-load.

[Frank B]

I used Sonic springs in my 400, really easy to do and they came with good instructions. I used 10wt oil.  I ended up cutting the spacers a little short, then used washers to get it right.

[LMS]

Came back from vacation and went at it. I think a third of the oil leaked out of one side, both super mushy. Oil that came out was black as tar and stunk like ass. Removing seals was pretty easy, same with installing. New springs installed along with spacers and oil and dust caps, good to go.
I then checked stem bearings, notchy and dragged. My lord, I'm pretty sure they are original, have never been replaced, let alone re-greased. New races and bearings on order. Polished up the forks which were also funky, look great now.
Question in regard to the stock steering damper, do I need that if I have one that attaches to stanchion?

[Striker1423]

You don't need two dampers... But, that's up to you. Two won't hurt.

[LMS]

Opened up damper and it still had a little oil in there. Cleaned it up, filled with gear oil. Who knows if that is right, read a few articles on what to use, wasn't any general consensus. Once I tightened the 6 outside screws, oil seeped out of the two inner holes, which is good. At that point, should I put those screws in, which I did already. Or should I pull them back out and sweep it back and forth which will force some oil out of those two holes?
Bearings showed up. For the triple tree, put that in freezer, put race in oven at 500, mmmm, tasty. Pulled it out and it dropped right over, no banging. Next up, need to install races into frame.

[m in sc]

set the damper in a container of oil, like a tupperware tub or the like. take both screws out, rock the shaft back and forth until the air bubbles stop. put screws back in, take out of tub & clean off. most sure fire way to do it.

ive run 30wt motor oil in them before with success.

[LMS]

Awesome, will do. Thx.

[LMS]

Damper is filed with oil. Installed races and triple tree. Easy as well. I just put my heat gun in the frame neck, freezed the races and they went right in. Forks are finally installed, for the most part. Went to install new control switches so I could start buttoning up the front end, and of course I ordered switches for a 400. More wait time. Ugh!
Made a mount so I could drop the stock gauge pod. That way it's not so up in your face, per say, with clip-ons. Needs some tweaking, paint, but looks like it will work.