Messages

there is nothing wrong with me. I'm off this site because you even think it. we have creative differences thats all. repairs should be done in a modern way. fixed 45 yo honda twin stator and run modern because i can and want to. all my modern repairs are out of manual. I understand the physics. starts first time everytime with the headlight on. I run without a battery and everything works. integrated turn signals and all.




I even fixed this lemon mechanically. used a kz440 slipper, made a bracket and fit. cut the defective honda slipper and used it as the guide. busa style tensioner made from scrap. #219 cam chain master link. best $21 I've ever spent on ebay.without naming the site that sells the guides, the new improved guide design is dangerous. how do you eat a guide? it snapps off at the top mounts. I've eaten three top ends in 2k miles. why shouldedn't people know? I ride like I stole it. love to rev it now. no issues with the kz400 slipper and old style guide. understand the concept of lemon. the old design can not be fixed. top end swapp or redesigned modern tensioner is the only way to fix mechanically.






there is so much on the net, fix it any way you want. absolutly use moden parts.
 
hey russ, the modern r/r for the rd400 is the honda ascot r/r. it wires in exactly the same wire for wire except with honda colors. brown yamaha=black honda. green is honda ground.

coils do not need to be rewound ever.

In regards to what your saying, sure.
I'm talking about rewinding shorted out windings with broken down insulation.  Buying NOS 45 year old coated wire and expecting it to last isn't worth what people charge for NOS.

yea I really sound like a crazy. of course you know what you are saying and are correct. nos is not the path. restomod is the path.


mark, sorry you never learned dc. its a valuable skill.

I don't even bother buying "NOS" windings, I rewind it with brand new magnet wire.
It's an option.   Easy enough with a single post coil.   
I just count the removed turns (per layer as well), measure the gauge and rewind it.
I've done a few ignition source coils that way.

coils do not need to be rewound ever. what is needed is a full wave solution. unground the 2 coils connect them together and run 3 phase. you will have all the juice you need. done it a dozen times.

you even can just unground one lighting coil and use a scoot r/r. one ungrounded coil will have the same output as 2 grounded coils. I've run this way no issues.

rev box, r/r, flywheel 45$

Hey, so i need some sort of igntion/lighting for the lt250r motor for the grom. parts are stupid expensive, and the stock stator looks.. lacking. also, im missing the flywheel.

so, i was wondering, can the RM250 rotor/ignition be used on this motor (mine does not have the elec start) ? because HPI has a unit for the RM250 of that year. (86)  for like 200 bucks.

fix the stock stator. you have 4 wires coming out of the stator? igniter, cdi, ac, ac. simple rewire to 3 phase then a generic r/r. flywheels are on ebay. if I know what I'm talking about the two ac coils will both be grounded to the stator plate. ungrounding will fix.

['one more time really slowly.]

Ben, this is your last warning. Vent elsewhere. I don't need a history lesson on DT250s, that wasn't the point and you aren't helping. If you come at me or anybody with this condescending crap again 'one more time really slowly.' your gone. Period. Your electrical info isn't worth the aggravation.

also, rethink your Honda twin posts. Stop dragging the board down. Nobody wants to hear it.  Help & be polite, or be quiet.

sorry I piss you off, I still think this A frame is a really good platform with an untraceable vin. its well worth restoring. lets let all the others who own restored dt250's chime in. I'm not trying to be condescending.

honda twins posts are about honda twins not the site. no problem, all you have to do is ask once. I'm on a long vacation. had no idea I aggravate you. It will be a long time before I do that again.

people will restore anything, not really a valid argument.

. id also go with the easton pipe. friend of mine has a ts400 with one of johns pipes and it makes really good power. looks period as well. 

one more time really slowly. the dt250 was the first enduro. designed in 1968 and unchanged through the '70's. why? because they sold like hotcakes. its not like you could get a similar bike elsewhere. it was built for the American market.

just show me one post where the poster is a daily driver and works great because it got piped and I'll shut up for good. it is not a ripper at 17 hp.

I do see many pipe burn style art bike non running builds that are piped.

I own one and finished the restoration. getting a yz250 top end would be a better use of funds. it should bolt right, it has the same stroke. saw a '78 on ebay.

I truly don't understand what you are saying. for 65$ shipping included you can get a yz250 pipe that will fit with minor fitment adjustments. no way is it worth to pipe this 17hp antique turd. there is a reason no one restores this bike. the only cool dt250's are the ones where the engine has been swapped out. dt's and it's have the engine cases painted black from the factory rt cases are aluminum color. 


sonreir is doing one on ddt, but not much is coming out of that build. I gave better advise. rewinding coils is never needed to make any lighting with todays tech. re assigning ground so you can run 2 phase is the path. remember the ignition runs ac. on a dedicated igniton stator and works very well stock.

what if this is what you brought this home?

https://newyork.craigslist.org/fct/mcy/d/wallingford-1970-kawasaki-h1-500-for/6913190157.html

if it was me I'd leave you for sure.

What is a good baseline for jetting an XS400 (pods and 2 into 1) The carbs are currently set up for a modded RD400. I have the entire system (cable, throttle etc). Trying to help out a friend get his cafe project running.
Thanks!

110-120 main? I really don't know because the 4t pz30's I used are different. you adjust the main jet with the air screw.

To be fair - the 20000 lumen figure was for the pair of bulbs.

Not sure you get 10000 per bulb, but a big difference.

I just wish the temperature range was a bit lower...

the one I posted runs cold and is brighter than stock.

Will a stock system support that or would you need a vape system that would allow that much wattage?

stock. the description is a little retarded. 100w is the equivalent hid bulb, its probably actually 12w of current drain. 20,000 lumens is bullshit obviously. stock bulb is nearer 800 lumens.


here we have a case where mark puts one part and I put a different part with a different price. who is right? we both are. I'm also using another property he is not. the one I posted is 2,000 lumen. it uses just 5w. I need this because I often run batteryless.  but to answer your question all led's use just a fraction of the juice other bulbs use. modern stator repair is the led conversion. no vape needed.

the manual says its single phase. it is. I say its three phase. it is. honda twins says its single phase. that whole site is wrong on this. spirit66 banned me for saying the way I deal with this bike is three phase and deleted my posts there. you can not fix this bike single phase period. skip all the theory on the first read. you can read it later. skip down and read money green first.

electircal posts are never anwered on that site on posts that are up for years. voodoo mantra is how they deal with the electrics. voodoo does not work. I do wear voodoo colors. don't see any downside from wearing black on saturday and red on tuesday. wearing green on payday can only help and is a good idea.

deep theory you don't need to know.

there is a machine called an ocillicope. it is a small tv to look ac or dc current on a screen graph. you can see voltage and shapes. dc is a flat line. ac is a sine wave. the cdi pulsar trigger is saw tooth. honda twins have three stator wires. 6 coils in series attached to 2 coils in series. where they are attached is the pink stator wire. the 2 coils is yellow. white is 6 coils. if you take a look with a scope the picture on the screen will be an ac sine wave on each of the wires. the stator coils are arranged in such a way that all of the ac sine waves line up with each other. the pink wire is 180 degrees out of phase, the scope pic is the same. this is single phase. who cares. the engineers of the day did. thats why they put each stator coil where it is. it was done on purpose. the reason is that regulators of the day ran  differently then today. it is also the reason why the yellow wire going to the high beam (also a white wire)(voodoo) is in the handle bar. wire colors don't always have a meaning.

deep theory lite recap

what does all that mean. on the little tv the picture all the ac sine waves line up single phase. the voltage coming out of each is the only difference. yellow is 2 so its the lowest, pink is 8 and the biggest and white is 6 has the middle voltage.  three stator wires single phase with different voltages. stock honda twins are designed to run on two stator outputs, the pink and white and a battery. yellow comes on with the high beams.

thats why the kohler r/r thread persists on the honda twins site even though its fucked up from post #1 for the last 7 years. the way the guy has it wired is the same as stock by skipping the yellow and running a battery. won't run without a battery this way.

money green starts here.

why am I the only person riding a honda twin with out a battey with the stock stator. it's because I know two facts written here and only found on this site with the fix.

1: honda twins barely have enough juice at idle without a battery.
2: because there is not enough voltage at idle the headlight dims. when this happens the resistance of the headlight decreases. this decrease in resistance shorts out the bike making the headlight an automatic relay. kill switch at idle.

here is the fix to problem #1. use all 3 stator outputs in a way where they are run in series to get maximum voltge at idle. this is done by running all 3 stator wires through the r/r. this will rectify and add all the voltages. 2+6+8 coils in series. this is reality and not voodoo and it is called 3 phase rectification. the fix has to be with all three phases. cn/ch250 honda uses a 3 phase r/r and is the most modern fix. its wiring is obvious even for the most electrically challanged. 

the fix to problem #2. get rid of the automatic kill switch. led's do not short out the bike at idle because the resistance does not change at lower voltages. it will flash a little when the voltage gets too low but it won't kill the bike at idle. change out all incondescents to led's and the stalling stops.

The stock RD ignition lock will not work with the MZB  without a battery and relay. Just use an ignition lock from a bike with a magneto ignition, eiter points or cdi. Basically almost any 2 stroke single.

easily bypassed with a 3$ 20a toggle? you are going to run a hidden kill anyway?

run without a battery and don't look back. you will be so happy you did. use the kicker!

the mbz is well engineered. I'm sure it has a dedicated lighting that has nothing to do with the ignition side. not having enough power or not running turn signals to save power is stupid. lights today use barely any power. led turn signals for motorcycles are integrated if you want minimal. old turn signal bulbs are 5w. old signal flashers are 5w. that's 15w just to signal a turn. (front turn signal, back turn signal, flasher) as opposed to less than 1w with led's for the same action. 1157,1156 cob led's (the bright ones) are 0.2w. besides needing a different flasher they are plug and play. you want less load and more power cob led's are the answer.

electronics have gotten to the point where I can even street legal light a bike that has no lighting coil without stator changes. the answer is to lighten the load. how? subvert blinky bicycle crap. have you seen how fucking bright these headlights that run on 3aaa batteries are. you cut out the blinkey board and just use the headlight. the wiring is so fine it makes 22 guage look cable thick.

I can steal 3aaa batteries worth of power from an 80v ignition coil without any problem to ignition.

Hi guys, back on the old form I found out about putting a Honda headlight in that takes an h4 bulb the rd25/350 bucket. This was nice because it now takes a halogen bulb, but my problem is I still want better light and the low quality 35w h4 bulbs keep blowing out. I was looking to do an led but everyone I see has a huge heat sink. Was wondering if anyone has put an led bulb in the Honda h4 housing.

yes I have some experience running leds. no heat sink on this one.

www.2strokeworld.net/forum/index.php?topic=403.0

just depends what you want and what its worth to you.  I can outrun most muscle cars in my v6 suv crossover, 305 hp and more tech than you can throw a stick at.  However, my falcon, maverick, and galaxie give me lots more satisfaction when im driving them. to each their own.

I'm a bit off because I get my satifaction wrenching not riding. any bike I've get personal with gives me satifaction. I disagree about the hours I put into my projects. winter is winter and I don't mind the scavanger hunt. you know how I feel about 2t's I own three. I'm just not seeing rd baskets in my price range. super happy with my cb led batteryless lane splitter. every biker gives me thumbs up. already got pulled over and got a ticket for a non dot helmet, my welcome to cafe builds. I get a sick satifaction every time I roll open the throttle on the pz30's. what a joke. they run a bit lean but they are dialed in close enough to be stupid fun. cant believe how well the led conversion works, for $18 bucks total. so bright without a battery. 360 turd is a lot faster stripped down. for me its not about money. its the satisfaction of doing it myself and being told after I do it it can't be done. restomods are fun. I have a 45 year old bike that runs like new. first kick every time daily driver and not some bullshit battey tender antique.


there is a market for old 2t's what they go for is what they are worth. non running rd's are now 2500$ and up in my area. I've been priced out but thats just me.