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I ride through the late fall, winter, and early spring when the weather is cool to (Houston) cold.  That usually means temperatures no colder than the high 40s and 50s.

When it's 95 outside it's hard to convince myself to gear up for a ride.

Thanks for all the help, Gents.  It's almost riding season here in Houston - so I will be tuning soon.

I'm on my 4th RD250/350 restore/refurbishment and still get confused. 

Is the pilot screw a fuel screw or an air screw?  That is, if I'm running rich on the low speed circuit which way do I turn the pilot screw to lean out the mixture?

Many thanks.

I'm early in the restoration of a '76 Kawasaki KH500 triple, the last of the widowmakers.  The KH500 has an electronic ignition.  It's quite clever, using 3 pips on the crank to trigger a sensor that is attached to a brain box.  A distributor commutator ring on the alternator sends the ignition signal from the brain box to the correct (of three) coils.

The brain box changes the ignition advance, firing the spark more retarded at low RPM and more advanced at high RPM.  So this contrasts with how the RDs do business.  A fixed spark at 2.0 mm (or 1.8 mm with modern gas) before TDC regardless of RPM.  The RDs run quite well over a large RPM range.

Both are piston port engines.  Any idea why Kawasaki went to the additional trouble of incorporating an advance?  Just curious.

You should run tubes.  Tubeless rims have a different profile that will hold the tire at the edge of the rim if it loses pressure.  A tube type rim will allow the beads to drop into the well.  That makes the bike unstable.

By 1980 Yamaha was fitting similar rims that were designed for tubeless tires.  There is cast in lettering on one of the spokes saying something to the effect "OK for tubeless use".  If you don't see that text it's risky to go tubeless.

Ride safe.

It does look like a good project.  As Evan said, the airbox is gone.  Likely in the search of more power (which does not always work).  That may mean that there are other surprises (like porting) waiting inside the engine.  It's nothing that can't be brought back, but would mean a used set of cylinders.  The fork tubes are also toast and will need replacing.  Plus the usual master and wheel cylinder rebuilds, etc., etc. etc.

I would say $1000-$2000 also, but would expect to put a bunch of money into the rebuild.  If you are able to do basic mechanical work, it will keep the costs down.  Plus you will learn a thing or two along the way (I always do on my restos).

Regarding the title - in Texas it's easy to do a transfer with a lost title.  You just have the owner of record fill out a form and you supply it with your application for title.  No physical title needed.  I'm guessing that Florida has something similar - you just need to find out the process.

Assuming that your friend's dad is available it ought to be easy-peasy.

At the moment I have 8 bikes licensed*.  I got tired of periodically cleaning carbs and now run ethanol-free fuel only.  I get 100 octane 100% dino juice at the local airport for $4 per gallon.  There is also a place a bit further away from my house in suburban Houston that caters to industry that also has ethanol free fuel.  It was $4 per gallon when normal gas was $3.00.  It's still the same price even though gas has dropped to $1.80.

* 8 bikes are not much more expensive than 2.  Historic plates in TX are $5 per year.  Insurance is $10 each once you get enough bikes.  The only fly in the ointment is that my wife will sometimes count them up.   ;D

Just to be clear, it can't be the flasher unit - it fires both sides so since the left is working it tells you that the flasher unit is OK, as is the wiring up to it.  The wiring then goes to the handlebar switch where it splits right and left (as I recall), so the wire to the switch is also good.  Since it's a new switch let's assume that the switch is good, too. 

The buzzing on the right makes me think you have a short.  Check for obvious paths to ground that should not be there.  Also, you should check with a test light.  Set one side to ground and start at the wire that comes from the switch.  Disconnect the connector and connect the test light to the hot connector.  It should flash just like a turn signal.  Then you can work your way along the right hand turn signal path.

You can also do this with a voltmeter, but the voltage will be a constant 12V.  The flasher won't operate with the voltmeter in the circuit.  The resistance isn't right.

I looked it up on the partzilla site, Chuck.  It showed the same 16 tooth front sprocket for both.  The website might have been wrong, of course.

Ahhh, that explains it!  Thanks, Mark. 

That's a good reason not to "upgrade" to RD350 cylinders.  You would still have the short internal gearing.

I just checked and the stock gearing appears to be the same on the 250 and 350.  Both 16/40.

But, my 250 feels nearly as strong as the 350.  Both engines are fresh and the jetting is good.  They both have strong urge off the line.  The 350 is a bit more wheelie prone in first gear, but the 250 is not far behind.

I do remember taking a brief ride on a friend's new RD250 in '73.  That bike MOVED.

The newest RD250.  And it came with a bunch of extra parts including the RD350 front end.

Sorry for the multiple posts.  The photos bumped up against the posting limit.

The RD250 basket case turned café racer.  It's nearly finished.

The "mostly stock" RD250

Some photos:

My bone stock RD350