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Modified 72 R5 at sunrise

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Messages - Striker1423

#1
General Chatter / Re: I Almost Biffed It
October 22, 2025, 12:21:55 AM
Quote from: Yamanatic on October 21, 2025, 03:28:23 PMBiggest reason (I've found) for inherently stable bikes - like RD's - to 'wobble' when getting light in the front end or the wheel coming off the ground at speed is improper rear wheel alignment. When the wheel comes down full force it tries to align with the rear and is snapped one direction or the other until the two wheels are playing as a team again.

The list of culprits can be anything from worn swingarm bushes, loose rear wheel bearings, loose steering-head bearings, cupped front tires, or improper chain puller adjustments. Checking bearings and bushings is done static, but since I've found adjuster hash-marks that are off, I check alignment at speed - get your body as straight on the bike as possible and let go of the bars; if the bike goes perfectly straight alignment is good. If the bike pulls to one side, move that side adjuster back until it tracks true. If the hash marks are in fact off, remark the puller to match the opposite side.   

Since your wobble went away toot-sweet, it sounds like an alignment issue; most wobbles don't resolve on their own and often get worse, until you get the bike slowed down. Worst wobbling vintage bikes I've found to be short-frame BMW /5's, especially with handlebar fairings; they wobble easiest when the front tire cups - I've has some frightening tank-slappers on Beemers, but so far have never been spit off - 60 years and counting! 

Warren

I'm pretty positive my rear wheels been out a bit for a while now. I just couldn't seem to get it perfect. My front forks seem to be sitting a bit twisted as compared to the tank as well. So I'll try readjusting everything again to be safe.

I picked up a Motion Pro fork alignment tool a few months back to check the Suzuki and in reality need to check the Yamaha for sure now.

You just adjust it to your fork size and lay it flat across the inner fork tubes. If it doesn't sit flush then you have to adjust until it does.
#2
General Chatter / Re: Flaky eBay buyers
October 21, 2025, 12:51:13 PM
I've been that guy and asked to cancel Buy It Now items before. But, I've always reached out and asked, if they say no, then oh well. 
#3
General Chatter / I Almost Biffed It
October 21, 2025, 12:47:54 PM
Took the Yamaha out for a very cold lunch (55F) and on the way home was just having a ball. Did a few test runs to confirm lack of fuel at high RPM's (yup), and decided the last pass would be more fun than usual by going over the overpass before my turn off to the dirt road.

When hooligan me comes out, I've always hammered the gas on the backside of overpasses, never the front. This time I was going probably 60mph or so, and decided to hammer the throttle at the bottom of the overpass. So, I hit the crest of the bridge at say 70-75mph. Possibly faster.

The front tire must have come off the ground a bit over the top deck of the bridge transfer, because I almost had a true speed wobble. I say almost, because just as fast as one started, it stopped by itself and I was able to recover and brake for my turn. It never went full tank slapper, just a few oscillations, but enough to make me clench.

So, no more super sweet overpass speeding on that bike for me.  :shocked:
#4
I looked into ordering from Devon Rim Company, and as far as I can tell based on the schedule is 25%. So, I've been piecemealing the parts together on eBay today. I can eek in just above the total before tariffs that Devon can provide (438GBP just for the wheels and spokes, including shipping), which is $589. 

NOS spokes for the front $138 shipped.
NOS front rim $166 shipped
Used Rear Rim $145 shipped. - No nice Takasagos available. I guess there is one that a guy is offering rechromed for $350 shipped.
Rear spokes (Buchanan stainless) $175 shipped, all that was on ebay.

Grand total: $624
#5
Quote from: m in sc on September 28, 2025, 01:16:53 PMit has to be a carb issue. make sure the airjets are cleared out. and that the choke isnt hanging open

This. I'd honestly take the hardest look at that corroded mess of a carb from your prior pictures. A badly corroded carb can really throw off a lot of the carbs function.
#6
Turning Wrenches / Re: Yambits NGK B8ES
September 29, 2025, 10:12:04 PM
I order B8ES from the Dealer for about $4.00 per. They show up in Honda brand boxes lol.
#7
Turning Wrenches / Re: Top end cutout on the RD
September 19, 2025, 10:31:19 PM
Do you know which one to order? I'm seeing the retained spring ones, but nothing for the regular vm28.
#8
Turning Wrenches / Re: Top end cutout on the RD
September 18, 2025, 06:09:15 PM
Would it hurt to do the needle and seat swap anyway?
#9
Turning Wrenches / Top end cutout on the RD
September 18, 2025, 09:33:11 AM
Every once in a while I attempt to hit top speed down my road. Usually no traffic and several miles of run to test on. I noticed two things. I can hit 100mph on the speedo (which isn't 100 for sure). But, I couldn't get it to go over that.

At 95-100mph:
1. If I try to fully open the throttle, the bike just quits accelerating and actually slows down until I back off a bit to just a hair over 3/4 throttle. It sounds like it's bogging at the top, just like it runs out of ass. If I roll back to 3/4 it picks back up accelerating to around 100mph and that's it.

2. As I go down from full throttle (and that bog), it'll pick back up and decel for around an 1/8th of a twist of throttle just fine, but then seemingly cut out out of nowhere for the tiniest bit (say a 1/16th of the throttle) as I continue to roll off, before picking back up just fine past that spot in the throttle. 

So, it goes throttle up to 3/4 or just past, and the bike sings just fine at top speed, roll up to full... bog. Roll off slow, decel ok, cutout, then decel ok the rest of the way down.

I'm curious what causes that weird cutout. It honestly feels like the ignition or fuel just gives up at that one spot only. The top end bog is jetting for sure, I think it's a bit rich still.

Specs:
Dave F modded carbs
Needle clips 3rd position (was thinking of shimming to 3.5?)
Main jets #200
Pilots: 27.5 1.5 turns out

All other rev ranges appear OK. I should note, I do get some pretty whacky surging at slow speeds (carb sync must be off).
 
#10
Well, I should say, I was being rather lazy when I did it. I had the super cheap aftermarket coils from eBay and ran into fitment issues, so I used the plug wire from those coils and new NGK caps. The plug wires were all braided copper. I had a roll of solid core somewhere, but couldn't find it and figured the braided leads would work. Which, they do, but I just want the piece of mind on new coils.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/297441808911

Expensive, yeah, but seemed worth it.
#11
So, I priced out sending the speedometer and tachometer for the GT750 and RD off to Classic Bike Meters in the Netherlands to restore them to proper readings. Shipping, even through parcel monkey, was $480 one way. No clue if that's due to tariffs or not. But, looks like my idea of comparing quotes is out the window. I'll be sending them to Joel Levine Company in Georgia for under $20 this winter.
#12
Quote from: teazer on September 07, 2025, 12:51:55 PM
Quote from: Striker1423 on July 06, 2025, 10:39:29 PMI have a new set of coils for the GT. The big problem I have is the layout of the new set is backwards to the old and when mounted in the bracket the far left coil hits the frame.

I had to resort to cutting the old wires out and epoxying new ones into my
old coils for now.

Replacing the HT leads is often all that's required for the old GTs. What coils did you get as replacements?  I have used a few different coils over the years with differing fitment issues, but most are an easy fit.


I got a set of Nippon Denso replacement coils from Japan that came with a numbered harness (1,2,3) and NGK caps off eBay. In their instructions, they basically have you razer knife off a small portion of the coil plastic near the center wire to clear the frame. I'll check that out when I work on the swap.
#13
Let me know how those pipes seal up! My JL street retros I actually sent the manifolds off to GRA2Strokes years ago to be modified so they'd stop leaking.

They still drip a bit from the second downpipe connection, but meh. Not enough to matter. 
#14
Turning Wrenches / Re: Chewed up crank seal - cause?
September 03, 2025, 08:40:48 AM
I used a penny to take the clutch and crank nuts off the first couple times I rebuilt my RD lol. Hard to believe I haven't really been inside that motor in several years already. Knock on wood.
#15
Yeah, that's super lame, like I mentioned to you already about the cutoff. But for those who don't know, you can no longer import goods under $800 into the U.S. duty-free, as the "de minimis exemption" was ended on August 29, 2025. Now, all non-postal shipments valued at $800 or less are subject to applicable duties and taxes.