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New voltage regulator and gel cell battery. Last time I measured it was putting out a little over 14 volts at 2500 plus Rpm. Now that you mention it I checked the plug against the head and it sparked, just not a hot "blue" spark.

I used a a 2.0 Mikuni 4mm X .7 threaded jet within

Yes, this was drilled and tapped for a thread in airjet, Bought kit from John at Economy

Carb slides are in correctly with cutout to rear and large angled slot (for idle screw) in contact. Octane question from a response will not make a difference as it is not detonating.  My thought is that the pilot circuit is too lean and I made the primary too rich by moving the clip position, adding other complications.  I only have a 27.5 and a 30 pilot available, thinking of buying a 35 and 37.5 from John at Economy and putting the needle back to middle position, start with pilot changes and see where it leads.

Sunoco pump gas, 93 or 94 octane, depending on station

Hello Everyone,
I was looking for some additional feedback regarding jetting.  I posted on here last year and had my bike sorted after correspondence with individuals on this forum.  The bike "was" a 75 RD350 Stock bore with DG pipes,  a K&N filter with a new Y boot and a Dyna S ignition.  I had the carb currently (set up with Dave F mod) 5DP7 jet needle, 169P0 primary needle jet, 30.0 pilot, with 190 mains and the needle clip in center position (#3), air screw 1 turn out from seated. I also added banshee intakes and a crossover tube, 3/8" thick reed spacers. With the spacers, I did not need to cut the ears off the banshee intake, just cleared. The bike was sorted and ran great, just a little tired at 6600 miles on stock bore.  Since then, I acquired another engine from a forum member and sent the top end to Josh at Bill Bune (again a recommendation from a forum member).  I had the following done to the stock 64 mm heads and cylinders I acquired for spare engine per Josh below:

"ProX Banshee pistons. A pair of those are $200. The head we would play it safe and recut the Squish + 2 degrees from the top of the ProX pistons, Then mill for more compression. The cylinders would be "trail ported" Meaning safely raise and widen Exhaust / polish, Raise Transfers, Lower intake, and blend everything in"  - Josh also cut the pistons to be used in this setup.


Prior to putting the new top end on, I replaced the DG's with a set of SS Dogster expansion chambers.  I did not change anything else when i put these on (everything on bike was the same as before), and the performance (seat of pants) was the same as the DG's.

I just got around to putting the new top end on with new setup.  I kept the timing the same as before (need to look at notes for exact value but set with an inductive timing light and it ran great with previous setup). My problem now is that when riding, It ran great until roughly 4K rpm, and then sputtered and popped, could not go above this.  I changed the needle position to # 4 (was # 3) and it seems as if it is getting too much gas as it just bogs and is not happy, could not even ride it in new clip position as needed to give it throttle just to keep running.  I am wondering if I need to up my pilot jet to a 35 or 37.5 with this new machine work done and maybe up the main in addition? Notes from Chuck Q during my last bike (very similar build to where I am now) indicated this pilot jet setting and a 220 main.  Wanted to get some feedback from the group.  As of now it looks nice, but just a garage queen until I get it sorted.  Thanks

Hi Mark,  I made a typo when I took a pic and placed the rings on the instructions.  I have these installed correctly as the ring land on the piston prevents a mismatch.  I kept the expander out.  See below in italics:

I made a typo though, the second ring is thicker, wanted to clarify for future reference  Second ring is .059",  top ring is .046"

Fired it up today, engine seems very lethargic as compared to before. Let it warm up 5 minutes, going to retorque cylinder head to 15 ft pounds and then run again, set timing.  Head was modified (squish band),  assuming I need to readjust timing.

Thanks Mark, i managed to upload some pics and you can see that it looks nothing like the pic in generic instructions.  I made a typo though, the second ring is thicker, wanted to clarify for future reference  Second ring is .059",  top ring is .046"

Thanks, Brian

So I am finally getting around to replacing my Top end with my Pro-X pistons and modified cylinders from Bill Bune (that I had received late last year). This is for my 75 RD350.  I has 2 rings and a oil expander (assuming this is what the corrugated ring is- does not look like the one in the instructions, stating for 4 stroke only, attempting to upload a pic but phone is temper-mental today)).  I did not receive any instructions and found a generic set online. It was very difficult to see the ring profile edge (to determine what was top and what was second ring) so I measured these with a set of calipers and measured the ring lands within the pistons with a feeler gauge and found that the top is thicker (.059") and the 2nd ring is thinner (.046"), each marked with a "T" so I can install correctly.  My question is that I do not see where the expander is used, assuming it goes behind the top ring due to width being .056" thickness.  can anyone confirm this is where the oil expander goes, behind the top ring or is it not used at all? 

Did a quick search and nothing came up so here goes.  What do you guys use to press the wrist pin out of connecting rod?  I am going to put my new top end on my RD350 in a few weeks and wanted to know if you made items or just bought a puller online.  Worried about damaging the connecting rod bearings if I get too aggressive, trying to alleviate any issues. Thanks

Yea, you need to understand how a dispute works in PayPal, let me explain.  When you get to a point of returning a product to resolve, PayPal "prepopulates" drop down boxes with shipping methods and asks for tracking numbers, this cannot be overridden and must be completed, or else the case is closed.  It was a loophole as seller settled with Brazilian post office on claim and was paid out, did not forward this to me, wanted the items back at my expense and then once received, payout would be determined thru PayPal.  Pretty shady to me at further out of pocket costs with no product at end.  When I put this in the notes that I was not going to ship back, just wanted resolved with photos and messenger proof of damage that I would be paid, these were ignored as system was only looking for receipt of returned product. Regardless, case closed and my loss and end of rant, just looking out for members of this forum to not go thru what I did.

Thanks

Update: So after 2 months, PayPal decided to side with the seller and not reimburse me for the damages that were caused by improper packaging and reimburse any costs I have incurred to correct.  The request was to send these back to the seller at my expense and then be reimbursed, amount TBD once these were back in Brazil, seems very shady.  As I was out nearly $800, was not going to spend additional to send back in the hope I would be reimbursed any amount.  I am not one for scorched earth, but at this juncture will advise anyone contemplating on buying from Rafael to beware and avoid them like the plague.  This lack of judgement on his part will definitely impact his business model if I can assist with that. Please feel free to reach out, many other reputable vendors out there.

Looking for a quality set of tubes for my 75 RD that I plan on putting BT46 tires on.  I have read that Chuck Q recommended IRC tubes, but can't seem to find a front tube size anywhere.  Chuck recommended 3.50-4.00-18 for the rear, what sizes are you guys using and what brands do you suggest?  Also would anybody have advice on using rim tape verses rim strips, looking for pros and cons. Thanks, Brian

I have PayPal involved at this point, Lots of "messenger questions" are used for my proof. Bottom line is that these were damaged and I had repaired at my expense, got the manufacturer involved -but had to go thru Brazilian post office which denied the claim, even though both ends of box was torn open and flanges sticking out due to improper packaging and securing. Then fitment issues on top of the damage which was rectified-again at my expense. As a business that is selling and shipping "insured" products. if damaged the appropriate thing to do would acknowledge this and make the buyer whole, not beat around the bush for nearly 3 weeks.  Only when PayPal was involved did the seller "step up" and answer questions- outcome still TBD.  Had I not gone this route would still be getting lip service.  Stay away, far away