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Thanks again, did some tricking around with the electrics,
the relay is now clicking on and off with the kill switch....


and also when the brake is applied when on switch position II 

working towards the timing I got the intake installed on the barrels after some cleaning and de-oxidization of the reed cage. I used a stainless steel dremel brush in a tap handle to clean up the cages.





Installed the pistons and barrels. These were vapour blasted a few years ago and still looking great (after being wrapped in brown paper and stored under the bed)

The pistons are "speed" branded and marked for 250DX. 2 rings with the bottom ring slightly thicker than the top, I cant find any info about them.

Nice project!
looks like a good bike to start with, is it a 400?
I thought they had twin front brake discs?

Waiting for parts to arrive so got a few bits done in between tinkering with the electrics . . .

When I bought the engine years ago there was no clutch cable holder and they cant be got
as a spare part that I know of.  So from a 25mm diameter aluminium rod I cut a slice off
drilled a hole and dremeled the under side to slide into the crankcase location,
works perfectly!





The clutch push mechanism needed a good clean, and it turned out quite well from all the
insulating crap which was on it there was surprisingly very little rust or corrosion.

This is how I wired in my kill switch on my 350

Thanks redneya, im not sure this will work for me, i have 2 wires from
the kill switch, red/yellow to main switch and the red/black.

I followed the same diagram for my HPI ignition. Your power (black cable label SW) should spliced the power source of the coils Red and White on the RD400 and Red and Black on RD350. I used one of those quick wire splicer to do this.

thanks for the info quocle603, i think part of my problem is that i dont know
where the red/black wire from the kill switch should go now that the stock
coils are not there. I have connected the black from the relay yo the red/black
but no "click" when ignition on.

Thank you sirs! I got one ordered today, turns out I was missing
the circlip to hold the gear change shaft along with the rubber protector
for the shaft.

thanks for the help.

With the engine out and neutral position in the gearbox resolved I cleaned the cases again and applied fresh gasket cement.
The engine was buttoned up, the stator reassembled after some modifications and fitted.
here is the thread http://www.2strokeworld.net/forum/index.php?topic=855.0

The mods included removing part of the crankcase to help the base plate sit flush. Fitting 2 extra countersunk screws to two plates where
there was initially 2 screws and applying some gasket cement to prevent a possible shorting event from wires vibrating against the housing.


With the engine in the frame I started assembling the wet side of the engine, Kickstart and gear change mechanism fitted.
[/div][div]I had to fit 2 new screws/bolts to one of the retaining collars, 7 years ago when I disassembled the engine the original screws
[/div][div]had to be forceably removed. I used stainless bolts with blue thread lock.



I am a bit confused [again] I see to be missing some sort of retaining collar from the clutch shaft, there are 3 screw holes,
2 can be seen to the left of the shaft. I cannot see this part on any schematics.



So moving on I decided to prep the clutch basket, I filed down the groves on the basket and give all the parts a good clean in
some fresh petrol, next up is the clutch build.

I have modified and fitted a Vape Powerdynamo to my project
as per the brilliant thread by SUPERTUNE's directions 

http://www.2strokeworld.net/forum/index.php?topic=855.0

I'm still tinkering away with the electrics and very slowly making progress
on getting things working as in lights and indicators.

I dont have the engine fully built but wanted up to now to get the lights
sorted.

regarding the relay on the vape system I dont know how to fully wire it,
I connected it to the Black/red wire from the kill switch that would
have fed the two original coils but im not hearing a "click" when the key
is turned to position I

does anyone know how the Black wire from the relay should be connected?
or if that stray Black/Red wire from the kill switch should be wired?

yea looks kinda mean!



well done again, winter is certainly the time for tweaking and improving

yup, but it wasnt too bad, so far.

The engine is back out and on the bench after a big clean up of the electrical mess on the bench.

Gonna investigate what is going on with the gearbox.

no worries Colin.

I keep saying that Work (the day job) is getting in the way of what I enjoy doing.

Nice!

Very different build, looks cool.

Well done.

What a great thread packed with great info!

Brilliant, Thanks Chuck.

I am currently in the process of fitting a Powerdynamo system on my 250b

The relay is relay is really confusing me [that isnt hard to do  ]

ATM I have just fitted the unit and wired up everything as per the instructions
supplied with the system. 

I probably should make sure that the pin connections match what is posted here.

There is a clack wire from the relay with no connection fitted but I have no idea
where that connects to.

Im using a U.S loom

Great thread!
I too am fitting a VAPE Powerdynamo ignition at the moment, I wasnt aware of the mods which people are doing,
I gonna check them out.

Spent a good bit of time in the garage yesterday working on the electrics.
I have a few problems which need attention.

I have on key position I working high and low headlight with indicator light on the clocks,
I have a flashing stop lamp indicator but no taillight or brake light.

on key position II I only have the clocks illuminating.

The last thing I fitted was the neutral switch cable and realised I have the selector drum fitted incorrectly.
I have a neutral light coming on in 1st.

looks like it will be engine out and crankcases opened, 1 step forward and 2 steps back