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2104 Grom.. 2t conversion

Started by m in sc, September 04, 2019, 11:36:55 AM

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SoCal250




This should be another cool build!  :popcorn2:
75 Yamaha RD125B   75 Yamaha RD125B (project)
75 Yamaha RD250B   75 Yamaha RD200B (project)
73 Yamaha RD350     77 Yamaha RD400D   79 Yamaha RD400F  
91 Yamaha TZR250R  89 Yamaha FZR400   05 Yamaha FZ6   
05 Yamaha XT225TC  82 Honda MB5  02 Aprilia RS250 Cup (sold)

m in sc

been busy all weekend on other stuff,  but got some rear plate templates made. looks like i need to shift motor to RH side about 3/8 of an inch but... its hanging in there. the measuring part. not exciting but pays off in the longrun. and yes, this will be a bolt in as much as i can so i can replace motor or frame down the road if need be.

:metal:





m in sc

so, back to the electronics.  :wave:

i found they make new aftermarket -stock configuration- stators for these motors, claims 130 watts output. (and dirt cheap) since im running led headlights and such, and im sure that 130 w is ac, i can, as ben suggested, unground the windings and go full wave. the new units are like 40 bucks, so worth it.  the real kicker is, i probably -could- use the whole stock harness and ecm on the bike as the motor input is only the 4 wires from the stator. 2 ac charging leads, 1 trigger and 1 for the coil.  :dawg:

the stock lt250r setup is the same output. the neat thing about it is the rev-counter would still work on the stock dash, and would save me from a boatload of wiring. the downside is i would have to get the ecm reflashed to 1: disable the cel and 2: out a 2 stroke timing curve in it. lots to consider.

currently drawing up the engine plates to have them laser cut out of aluminum :science:


Kawtriplefreak


m in sc

#19
so as an update, got the rear mounts done, did them out of 1/4" steel plate, this put the sprocket offset right where it needed to be.

this moved the motor forward "0.600 and up almost an inch for chain alignment. this of course tightened up things for the intake a bit (more on that below)






if you look  at the main bolt, you may recognizer it as an R5 front axle, it is, cut down with a shoulder welded on the cut side (as i need a 15mm bolt). I had a few of these with crash damage laying around, so in it went.






now that that was set, i needed to make sure the motor was set so i can get some form of an intake on there. balancing between the exhaust clearance issues that will crop up (by moving motor any further forward)  and screwing up the chain alignment (which was good here now) but dropping it any further, i had to make a concession. even moving the motor up to 2" in any direction, i would have had to go this way, si i just tightened up the clearance and made the intake. the downside is it adds a bend and 2.5" of runner length.   :bang:  Ive read various theories on this, and hopefully it will just move the power band down some. either way, i'll have to live with it. If i lose a hp or 3 im ok with that.  the upside is that the carb will be very easy to get to.



i mocked up up with a aVM35 as the flatslide for the motor isn't here yet. the exhaust is going up and over the other side of the motor.

Not ideal, but should be ok for a 220 lb bike.
clearance to the frame rail. the ID of the runner is 34mm, transitions are smoothed out and no steps.


^ the bend is a section out of a car header from a turbo'd civic. just had it laying around.  the round flange is stainless tube i had lathed down, and th eend plate is just 1/4" plate i hand cut. I am going to face that on the mill as the welding warped it a bot. all filler rod used was stainless.








now that all that is set, i can do the fron hung mount for the motor. then, aside from the pipe, all major fab is done. (aside from cleanup, etc)

m in sc

slight update, but exciting to me, found a guy that can reprogram the stock honda ecm to have a proper 2 stroke timing curve (which i will send him), and set the revlimit to 10-10,5k.  also disable the check engine light. this means i can pretty much plug and play the electrical from the suzuki motor after the grom ecm is reflashed, utilising the stock key, kill switch gauges, speedometer, etc.  just need to adapt the 2 ac charging wires and the trigger and ignition ac coil wires to the right plug and done.  :celebrate:

2 Stroke Jamoke

Good stuff, always nice to be able to use the stock harness.  I was able to jump in everything I needed to do my gamma conversion right into the stock Suzuki harness and I'm really glad I did. Same deal, stock key, stock kill switch and power for my tac and powervalve all on tap! Cheers Mark! -Ian

m in sc

indeed that is awesome.  :clap:

, the ignition is a huge deal for me. and the ability to use the stock digital gauges as well. did the same with the rd powered ninja 250 as well, but the cdi/ecu here is definitely a step up from what i thought i could get away with

Kawtriplefreak


Evans Ward

Gonna be badass- hope to see it at the Gap next Spring!
1984 Yamaha RZ350
1976 Suzuki GT750
1972 Kawasaki H2 750 Mach IV

quocle603

Do not underestimate the power of a two-stroke.

1975 Yamaha RD350 (modified), 1973 Yamaha RD350 (stock), 1971 Suzuki T500, 1981 Yamaha XS650 HS2, 1982 Honda MB5, 1980 Puch Maxi, 1979 Puch Magnum, 1993 Tomos Bullet, 2003 Malaguti Firefox F15 LC

m in sc


Dxrat

So cool, just what that bike needs.

RC8RDad

This is one heck of an ineresting project! I like that you are explaining all your doing, its making the thread a good read.
1992 Suzuki RGV250
2010 KTM RC8R
2019 KTM 500 EXC-F
2017 BMW R1200RTP (work bike)

m in sc

thanks. its going slow as I'm gathering parts, waiting on a set of cr125 radiators.  and a different pipe as I want to  route it under the motor,. I'll have to do a lot of work to get that the way I want it but should pay off